One question: I did a dyno run yesterday in 2WD mode. Everything went fine. Then I drove home, about 30 km. I parked the car, and this morning when I started driving, it jerked 5-6 times. All day today, I've had a slight smell like a clutch. It pulls well, shifts well, but you can smell it especially when the air conditioning is on. It's not extreme, but you can smell it. Is something wrong?
GR Yaris Clutch problems?
- Thread starter Heliomalt
- Start date
This is not necessary, as there is a 2WD and AWD test mode that switches everything off completely. You can also see in the centre display when you go to the AWD display that there is only power on the front axle.
I also had a leisurely drive today, just went shopping, so no cornering, but it was much warmer outside today, so the air conditioning had to work, it was over 20 degrees outside. On the way home, I drove past a mechanic friend of mine and he said that the smell reminded him more of condensation from the ventilation system and didn't smell like ‘curry’. I've only been driving the car again for about 3 weeks, before that it had been in the garage since the end of October.
Could be an explanation, but what gives me food for thought is that on the one hand there was this jerking when driving off this morning, with full steering lock out of the car park, and that it occurred after yesterday's Dynorun.
I went for a spin this evening with a significantly higher load, i.e. twice up the hill to my home, 9 degrees outside, air conditioning on, with and without recirculated air, engine oil was at 95°, gearbox at 51° and AWD clutch at 40°. When I got home, I took my son straight away so he could smell it, he doesn't smoke, unlike me, and he said he didn't smell anything, unlike this afternoon.
Incidentally, the jerking has not occurred since this morning.
Now I'm curious to see whether it will continue to smell over the next few days and whether problems will arise.
I also had a leisurely drive today, just went shopping, so no cornering, but it was much warmer outside today, so the air conditioning had to work, it was over 20 degrees outside. On the way home, I drove past a mechanic friend of mine and he said that the smell reminded him more of condensation from the ventilation system and didn't smell like ‘curry’. I've only been driving the car again for about 3 weeks, before that it had been in the garage since the end of October.
Could be an explanation, but what gives me food for thought is that on the one hand there was this jerking when driving off this morning, with full steering lock out of the car park, and that it occurred after yesterday's Dynorun.
I went for a spin this evening with a significantly higher load, i.e. twice up the hill to my home, 9 degrees outside, air conditioning on, with and without recirculated air, engine oil was at 95°, gearbox at 51° and AWD clutch at 40°. When I got home, I took my son straight away so he could smell it, he doesn't smoke, unlike me, and he said he didn't smell anything, unlike this afternoon.
Incidentally, the jerking has not occurred since this morning.
Now I'm curious to see whether it will continue to smell over the next few days and whether problems will arise.
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You wouldn’t be the first first person reporting that his clutch has been destroyed after a dyno run on a GR Yaris…keep monitoring it and hopefully it the clutch is ok.
sixtentouge
Totally Hooked
- Aug 28, 2023
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I know this is three months old, but replying because the info is pertinent.
The "2WD Dyno" test mode is not for dynoing the car at gull get. All modern Toyotas have this at a minimum to disable traction control for inspection purposes. In Japan, part of the bi-annual safety inspection is testing the speedometer at 40km/h, which is not possible with traction control, or if the car is AWD. For vehicles with AWD that can't be disengaged, it's required to use a simple roller system for the "secondary" axle.
The purpose of the test mode is for this test. A quick one-and-done to 40km/h to verify the speedo is accurate.
Spinning the front tires at 200km/h with the rear tires stopped will put massive heat into the ITCC, which can be seen with a scan tool. Even when it's disengaged, there is still a viscous friction component between the 12 plates in there, and you can absolutely damage it with repeated pulls and long steady-state calibration. We learned this with the ATTESA in the Skyline GT-R. You should be on an AWD dyno with mechanically linked front and rear, or remove the prop shaft.
