Some pics of how much difference camber adjustment can make to how your wheels and tyres sit mid corner:
GR Yaris Alignment, Camber and handling related talks
- Thread starter Michael Knight
- Start date
I’m fitting pro kit and camber bolts what’s the best geo settings for a neutral car fast road and track
I have no idea about toe caster etc … thanks
Someone had sent me some setting but I’ve miss placed them !!
Thanks
I have no idea about toe caster etc … thanks
Someone had sent me some setting but I’ve miss placed them !!
Thanks
So I've been testing my new setup (f/r camber: -2.9°/-2.7, toe: 0.55mm in/2.2mm in) on my summer PS4s, in dry (-5...15°C) and slippery/wet (3°C), on B roads, highway and my beloved track and I am loving it!
You can drift a roundabout and still fully lean on the rear in 120+km/h corners. The rear does move easily when asked, but its totally controllable.
This balance is pretty much what I was looking for.
The tramlining is kind of gone, except if accelerating hard over uneven surfaces. Can this be due to the slight toe in? (When it was -3°/-2° camber and front zero toe, it tramlined like hell)
I wish I could further increase the grip with say -3.3°/-3° but my rear camber bolts already maxed out at -2.7° so I am stuck
.
My lap times were identical with the -3°/-2° camber previous setup, but the car was much more predictable. I guess a pro would be faster with the more agressive setup, though. (I had more consistent fast laps w/ the new setup)
And for reference, I had 41.9s laptimes compared to stock setup's 43s
You can drift a roundabout and still fully lean on the rear in 120+km/h corners. The rear does move easily when asked, but its totally controllable.
This balance is pretty much what I was looking for.
The tramlining is kind of gone, except if accelerating hard over uneven surfaces. Can this be due to the slight toe in? (When it was -3°/-2° camber and front zero toe, it tramlined like hell)
I wish I could further increase the grip with say -3.3°/-3° but my rear camber bolts already maxed out at -2.7° so I am stuck
.My lap times were identical with the -3°/-2° camber previous setup, but the car was much more predictable. I guess a pro would be faster with the more agressive setup, though. (I had more consistent fast laps w/ the new setup)
And for reference, I had 41.9s laptimes compared to stock setup's 43s
Thanks for the replySo I've been testing my new setup (f/r camber: -2.9°/-2.7, toe: 0.55mm in/2.2mm in) on my summer PS4s, in dry (-5...15°C) and slippery/wet (3°C), on B roads, highway and my beloved track and I am loving it!
You can drift a roundabout and still fully lean on the rear in 120+km/h corners. The rear does move easily when asked, but its totally controllable.
This balance is pretty much what I was looking for.
The tramlining is kind of gone, except if accelerating hard over uneven surfaces. Can this be due to the slight toe in? (When it was -3°/-2° camber and front zero toe, it tramlined like hell)
I wish I could further increase the grip with say -3.3°/-3° but my rear camber bolts already maxed out at -2.7° so I am stuck
My lap times were identical with the -3°/-2° camber previous setup, but the car was much more predictable. I guess a pro would be faster with the more agressive setup, though. (I had more consistent fast laps w/ the new setup)
And for reference, I had 41.9s laptimes compared to stock setup's 43s
After much consideration increased front camber to almost -3 degrees again. In a way I still think it is a bit much from safety point of view*, but it's also safer to do slow in, fast out. Without it I was pushing on the way in to bends to get weight transfer and get that sublime rotation. Now fun is simpler.
Counter measures:
- at speed always with esp on or at least expert mode which will quickly kill unintended oversteer
- guest drivers only allowed with all nannies on (unless they really know how to drive)
- on snow and gravel it is too aggresive and kicks out the rear first in Track mode. However, I found a workaround, and car is much more neutral in Normal mode 60/40. So now Normal mode (with all systems off) actually has a use for me
*Evasive lane change at speed, or even worse, actual moose...
Counter measures:
- at speed always with esp on or at least expert mode which will quickly kill unintended oversteer
- guest drivers only allowed with all nannies on (unless they really know how to drive)
- on snow and gravel it is too aggresive and kicks out the rear first in Track mode. However, I found a workaround, and car is much more neutral in Normal mode 60/40. So now Normal mode (with all systems off) actually has a use for me
*Evasive lane change at speed, or even worse, actual moose...
Tested today gravel with -2 camber and sport mode - quite sporty but thats how we like it!After much consideration increased front camber to almost -3 degrees again. In a way I still think it is a bit much from safety point of view*, but it's also safer to do slow in, fast out. Without it I was pushing on the way in to bends to get weight transfer and get that sublime rotation. Now fun is simpler.
Counter measures:
- at speed always with esp on or at least expert mode which will quickly kill unintended oversteer
- guest drivers only allowed with all nannies on (unless they really know how to drive)
- on snow and gravel it is too aggresive and kicks out the rear first in Track mode. However, I found a workaround, and car is much more neutral in Normal mode 60/40. So now Normal mode (with all systems off) actually has a use for me
*Evasive lane change at speed, or even worse, actual moose...
Spirited
Totally Hooked
- Jan 23, 2022
- 488
- 500
- 93
"Sporty" as in:
- Agile,
- Tail-happy or
- ... Actual moose
, as per the post above yours?
ive opted for slightly different approach in a bid to keep as much tyre on ground for straight line braking ive gone -2º at front static camber with another -1º of dynamic camber when steering lock is wound on in corners by fitting aftermarket increased camber bushes
Agile and tail happy, very easy to rotate"Sporty" as in:
- Agile,
- Tail-happy or
- ... Actual moose
Spirited
Totally Hooked
- Jan 23, 2022
- 488
- 500
- 93
More detail, please!
Which aftermarket increased-camber bushes? Did you do the work at AW Motorworks?
What are your impressions of the setup? Pros & cons, including with reference to safety, please?
Spirited
Totally Hooked
- Jan 23, 2022
- 488
- 500
- 93
Yes, I like that kind of sporty
Did you get that outcome just my altering the front camber? Or did you also adjust anything else at the front? And did you leave the rear geo stock?
Toe to more refined (see first post) and added camber front. It is conservative set up as others have more aggressive but as drive also gravel think its a good compromiseYes, I like that kind of sporty
Did you get that outcome just my altering the front camber? Or did you also adjust anything else at the front? And did you leave the rear geo stock?
That's the next step and proper improvement, but it kinda opens the floodsgates to 'actual chassi mods' which I'm trying to keep closed for now
PS: increase caster, I presume
yes correct, increase caster which gives increased dynamic camber.
another benefit with increasing dynamic caster is on tight corners the unloaded inner wheel that would typically be scrabbling in a negative camber and tyre scraping attitude will now stand more upright
I found the extra caster really helped. I have 7 degree currently. My tyres finally wear even at -3.5 and mines -2.5 camber and I don't experience any straight line, braking or wet issues.
Yeah that's a good point. I got it from the top mount. That way I can push the camber without putting the wheel really close to the strut too.
Issues can be (as mentioned but good to summarise):
- Strut clearance
- Inner tyre wear and uneven tyre temps (esp. street use)
- Tramlining and added torque steer
- Reduced grip straight on (both braking and accelerating)
All are more apparent with lower and stiffer sidewalls and wider tyres.
burrellbloke
Absorbed member
- Oct 29, 2022
- 39
- 50
- 18
I am going to get some camber bolts to add some negative camber to my Yaris and then pay a visit to AW Motorworks to get the geo set up properly. I have standard suspension so it sits at stock height.
I am aiming to get something like 2.5 to 3 degrees on the front and about 2 degrees on the back.
Can anyone recommend what camber bolts would allow me to get these results? Do different brands have different limits as to how much camber they can add?
Also how many camber bolts do I need to do each side? For example if I got a set of Powerflex camber bolts for the rear how many sets do I need?
I am aiming to get something like 2.5 to 3 degrees on the front and about 2 degrees on the back.
Can anyone recommend what camber bolts would allow me to get these results? Do different brands have different limits as to how much camber they can add?
Also how many camber bolts do I need to do each side? For example if I got a set of Powerflex camber bolts for the rear how many sets do I need?
