GR Yaris The EcuTek thread

Onehp said:

Proper dyno tuning can take a lot of time and should be complemented with road tuning in such case.
There are hundreds of correction tables that when correctly done (lots of work), should be able to correct for variability between cars and/or readily be tweaked for the most common hardware upgrades. A quick dyno tune (<0,5 day) can extract extra power for a given individual, but the hardest work is making a resilient base tune that indeed can cope with being copy pasted and still work well, only needing to dot the i on a final dyno run. Guessing the wastgate control is causing headaches on this platform... If mk2 is better there (seems so from testdrive) that might be a compelling difference...

Never liked the smell of cancerous polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons... mf works great as a driving tool and no tuning issues , GRY has the handling edge in winter though for sure.

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JRM in Sweden spend 1d with the car - first in dyno and then road calibration.

ACME in Italy also spent almost 1 day. Same here: firstly on the dyno and then on the road.
Impressive result with 351 / 475 on the MK2 DAT

Plan is to get Uniclutch and Artec fitted in two weeks time, bed in the clutch then revise remote tune to operate at 'low boost' due to stock drive train and bottom end. I will provide data in due course.

just flashed 3 weeks ago my mk1 with litchsfield and after test the car roughly (40degree outside in Spain) can't be more happy... the car also has fitted, eventuri and a complete akra exhaust (slipon and the opf delete) ... boost target gets easily at 1,5bar from 3200 to 7000 pretty stable, the OEM boost bounces just dissapear, temps stay very fresh maybe like OEM, no boost cuts etc, I didn't do any dyno run but the car now have a noticeable torque increase , in roundabounds or low speed 180 turns ,the car just break the grip if you want to, it supposed to be at 325bhp (+-5) and 400Nm of torque. if someone is in doubt I definetly recomend it.

I forgot to coment the extra features, like launch control (killer transmision ), flatshift, and the rolling launch(turbokiller).... that bring you more near to the experience of a rally car that the yaris is,

dont forget to mention the good atention and job done by the litchsfield tunners. EXCELENT.

IMO definetly is the best option for a rally entusiast B road burner

regards from spain

Artec turbo is in, just need to bed in new clutch before tuning. I'm curious how much more power the Artec can make at the same boost as before (23psi peak to 20.5psi redline). This is in the +80% efficiency zone on the compressor map for a G25-550 and 65% range for the OE turbo.

simon.bochenski said:

Hi. Has anybody just done a ECUTEK tune in Australia (besides the Full Boost Yaris) without any further mods to the vehicle? Just looking to do the same to my car. I believe Full Boost ended up with 188wkw - which is more than enough for me. Thanks

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Hi. I decided to go from Aus with Litchfield and could not be happier . No other mods to motor now at 70k km . Have been very happy with dealing with Iain Lichfield from Down Under , did follow all instructions on the refining of the maps and did that asap on receiving them , which included a third gear pull WOT from 2 k to 7k , leaving a few surprised freeway drivers ! Run the programme by request from 1 Boring start up to 2 interesting 95 and 3 yo ho 98 ! This means I can lend the car to my family ! Excellent value and worth doing IMHO !

Boosted8 said:

Artec turbo is in, just need to bed in new clutch before tuning. I'm curious how much more power the Artec can make at the same boost as before (23psi peak to 20.5psi redline). This is in the +80% efficiency zone on the compressor map for a G25-550 and 65% range for the OE turbo.

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Got the compressor map for the OE turbo handy?
Thanks.

Sekred said:

Got the compressor map for the OE turbo handy?
Thanks.

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I've done a lot of digging on this as I too am curious but it seems IHI are a bit shy about the VB43, and indeed all their OEM turbos, so don't make the compressor maps publically available

I can share the calculations I asked Gemini to run for me when Im on the laptop tomorrow

Duke said:

I've done a lot of digging on this as I too am curious but it seems IHI are a bit shy about the VB43, and indeed all their OEM turbos, so don't make the compressor maps publically available

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Same here. Never seen IHI compressor Maps myself. I would be interested in how much air flow the turbo produces.

Yeah, I got a couple of AIs to run some number based on the compressor and turbine sizes, factoring in the fact it is a relatively recent ball bearing IHI turbo designed for a 1.6 3-cylinder. Gave some useful comparisons with known turbos, as well as areas where is would be different.

Based on a simulated compressor map model for the IHI VB43

The Real-World Reality​

While the raw math suggests a choke limit around 27-28 psi at 7000 RPM, you would never actually run the turbo there.

Operating directly on the choke line means compressor efficiency drops terribly (often below 60%). The turbo is spinning at dangerous speeds (overspeeding) and producing immense heat. To keep the air charge cool and prevent the turbo from destroying its bearings, tuners have to stay comfortably to the left of the choke line.

This mathematical estimation perfectly aligns with real-world dyno results for the GR Yaris and Corolla:

1. Midrange punch: Tuners can easily spike boost to 28-30 psi around 4000-5000 RPM (where engine base flow is lower, so the turbo isn't choked).
2. Top-end taper: By 7000 RPM, virtually every safe stock-turbo tune tapers the boost down to roughly 22 to 24 psi (1.5 - 1.65 bar) to keep the tiny 42.29mm inducer within its efficiency island and prevent it from choking.

In other news remote tuning has started. Running 1.5 bar 22 psi at redline so far.

Boosted8 said:

Based on a simulated compressor map model for the IHI VB43

The Real-World Reality​

While the raw math suggests a choke limit around 27-28 psi at 7000 RPM, you would never actually run the turbo there.

Operating directly on the choke line means compressor efficiency drops terribly (often below 60%). The turbo is spinning at dangerous speeds (overspeeding) and producing immense heat. To keep the air charge cool and prevent the turbo from destroying its bearings, tuners have to stay comfortably to the left of the choke line.

This mathematical estimation perfectly aligns with real-world dyno results for the GR Yaris and Corolla:

1. Midrange punch: Tuners can easily spike boost to 28-30 psi around 4000-5000 RPM (where engine base flow is lower, so the turbo isn't choked).
2. Top-end taper: By 7000 RPM, virtually every safe stock-turbo tune tapers the boost down to roughly 22 to 24 psi (1.5 - 1.65 bar) to keep the tiny 42.29mm inducer within its efficiency island and prevent it from choking.

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Whereas in reality we know that most maps with standard turbo, cams etc. will top out around 1.5-1.6 bar and taper to a little over a bar at the redline.

Duke said:

Whereas in reality we know that most maps with standard turbo, cams etc. will top out around 1.5-1.6 bar and taper to a little over a bar at the redline.

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It kind of depends on the weather to some degree. If it's hot and humid the car asks for more boost to hit the load target. A maxed out stock turbo tune (assuming valve train / cams) is generally 1.6-1.7 bar peak boost tapering to 1.4-1.5 at redline.

Boosted8 said:

It kind of depends on the weather to some degree. If it's hot and humid the car asks for more boost to hit the load target. A maxed out stock turbo tune (assuming valve train / cams) is generally 1.6-1.7 bar peak boost tapering to 1.4-1.5 at redline.

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Yeah, with cams that sounds about right.

Higher ambient will increase boot, yes, but only to a point. When it gets properly toasty - as it has been in Yurop recently - the ECU will pull back the boost as the intake temps rise. On the way home today I was barely seeing 1.3 bar.