Hi all, sorry to intrude on this very technical thread as a non-tech person. I'm considering the Ecutek remap from Litchfield, which, according to Litchfield, changes the torque to 300lbft/406Nm. Based on some previous discussions here, I'm wondering if this could risk breaking the input shaft. For reference, I have the Eventuri intake and Akrapovič gpf back. Many thanks.
GR Yaris Balance of tuning and durability limits
- Thread starter Onehp
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- Thread starter
- #142
It's not black and white, any increase increases the risk - long term, and apparently Toyota saw it fit to upgrade on the stock car. Would be interesting to see if the Morizo Corolla with 400Nm had the old shaft. Speaking in terms of remaps, 406Nm is on the conservative end and "should be fine", so far we don't have much feedback from inout shaft breaking and there must be a few thousands tuned out there, but there is always an increased risk especially on the longer term perspective.
Sekred
Totally Hooked
- Dec 18, 2021
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I think more like shock/load is going break things like the input shaft. Think big revs and dropping the clutch. My option
Greenthumb
Totally Hooked
I have 490NM.
What I never do, get the torque out of the basement and dont do AWD starts..
I learned that from my Evo times. Those are the two worst things
.
What I never do, get the torque out of the basement and dont do AWD starts..
I learned that from my Evo times. Those are the two worst things
.
When you say get the torque out of the basement what do you mean?I have 490NM.
What I never do, get the torque out of the basement and dont do AWD starts..
I learned that from my Evo times. Those are the two worst things
Michael Knight
Totally Hooked
Applies also to tuning principles that getting the all torque from low rpm is not maybe best approach for engine internals
Greenthumb
Totally Hooked
I meant "high gear at low speed" accelerate up, that's poison.
- Thread starter
- #150
Another data point from friend.
Failed DMF. OPF delete and piggyback/box with unknown but highish torque on road. Regular trackdays and autocross use without box.
Not reported on forum/groups/socials so though it an idea to get out to se if anyone else here has heard of more cases.
Failed DMF. OPF delete and piggyback/box with unknown but highish torque on road. Regular trackdays and autocross use without box.
Not reported on forum/groups/socials so though it an idea to get out to se if anyone else here has heard of more cases.
Mine was already on its way out at 16000 kms (not making any noises, but had to replace it when upgrading the clutch as it had broken springs. Same thing happened to a friend when replacing the clutch at 20000 kms (clutch was slipping). if you notice the other post that has the list of revised parts, you'll see that the DMF has a new part number starting at the beginning of 2023, so maybe that was also upgraded.
This is how my DMF looked like (notice the misaligned holes):
Michael Knight
Totally Hooked
would be interesting to know if this DMF issue is affecting all cars or just spesific production slots.
GRandemakina
Dedicated member
would this be something that Toyota would cover under warranty?
I know that clutches are wear-and-tear items (therefore not covered) but not necessarily DMF's...
Yuri: have you checked the dealership position on that regard?
Without going into too much detail (and this will, of course, depend on the country), their position is that it'll depend on what they determine caused it (the flywheel wasn't covered under warranty until recently -> it's now included after they changed it to the 10 year coverage - at least, here in Portugal, I'd suggest checking the specific inclusions and exclusions in the terms for your particular countries).
Nevertheless, they'll have a look at the car's VCH records (Vehicle Control History), which logs how the car has been driven (it logs launches, hard accelerator presses, hard braking, rotation, g forces, etc etc), and if they determine that the car was driven hard, they'll deny the warranty claim as it was caused by bad usage of the car (I know at least one situation where that happened).
So based on what I know, if you do 0-100 launches, track days where you push your car hard or even just a few hand brake turns or donuts, they'll just say that the flywheel/clutch was damaged because of that...
Oh, and one important thing to note... The flywheel alone costs around 1000 € here in Europe. if you can get it from Japan, you'll manage to get it for around 350-400 € + shipping + VAT.
Similar savings (or even more) are possible for the input shaft (150 + shipping + VAT vs around 500 € in europe) and the clutch concentric slave cylinder (around 130 € + shipping + VAT vs around 500-600 € here in europe).
Similar savings (or even more) are possible for the input shaft (150 + shipping + VAT vs around 500 € in europe) and the clutch concentric slave cylinder (around 130 € + shipping + VAT vs around 500-600 € here in europe).
Greenthumb
Totally Hooked
I'll wait until it all falls apart, then I'll replace it with something stronger and for less money.
the problem with that is that the other options are either replacing with a single mass flywheel (which will make your car sound and feel like a tractor
) , or a sequential gearbox.
Greenthumb
Totally Hooked
I live in the countryside, we are used to tractors .
.- Thread starter
- #159
Thanks for the very interesting contributions @yuri1312 
Im hoping that by the time mine eventually needs replacing, there will be better options for either sourcing the OE item or for aftermarket DMF alternatives.the problem with that is that the other options are either replacing with a single mass flywheel (which will make your car sound and feel like a tractor
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just to keep info centralized, another report of a failed DMF at 12000 k's: https://www.gr-zoo.com/threads/dtc-fault-codes-p030100-p030200-p03000-p030027.4595/
