GR Yaris Finetuning the original for driving fun and reliability

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Totally Hooked
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So making this thread because I want to put down my ideas and share them.

I've been sitting on the wall seeing what is being done to the car engine wise. My goals are:
- keeping the car as stock as possible, I want to keep the car potentially rest of my life and value ease of ownership and long term reliability
- focus on subjective fun in driving - response and enjoyment through the revrange. Don't care about numbers, in fact if it were slower and more fun, that would even be better... Also want the car to feel consistent
- on the above, "it's the new Integrale", but really, even stock it's a missile compared to them all:
(e.g. >5s faster to 100mph)
- "fun for others": keep bystanders happy and so preserving driving freedoms, so no loud antics (but that is easily changed with a cat-back in case that makes you deeply happy). But more importantly, keeping emission compliance, for others but also my own sake, I've exposed myself enough already through the years and noticed my lungs weren't always happy... Also no hassle later on, swapping exhaust for MOT is for youngsters...
- budget: having spent way too much on mods in the past for sometimes very marginal gains in actual driver enjoyment, I'm trying to keep mod count down...

Having owned and properly driven the car, here are my conclusions so far:
A) Off boost response is great
B) Response suffers from heat soak and hot temps (just as any other turbo), affecting response as the turbo must boost more for the same performance, also affecting NA response air temp into the engine are high. Logging shows a single 3rd gear pul around zero degr C results in a IAT rise of, at times, 20 degrees C. Still need to log how IC works in hotter weather.
C) Great torque on boost, 3k to 5k pulls are great fun, in cold weather works well together with initial strong NA reponse
D) Not so much fun to rev out, it is fast but doesn't feel it and feels 'flat'. Basically it doesn't deliver on the power rise earlier on, one wants a crescendo of sorts... Actual power goes down... Or with normal tuning boxes, stays 'level' (see yellow line in below graph)
E) Logging shows engine runs 'lean' AFR's up to 3900rpm WOT.
F) boost but also AFR drop above 4k-ish. Fuel trim drops just before redline, meaning there is extra fuel headroom in the top end...

What I'm planning:
1) E30 fuel (implemented), see https://www.gr-zoo.com/threads/ethanol-blends-e85.629/
Helps prevents timing pull when hotter, lower EGT on boost and helps IAT recovery off boost when port injection is active. Reduces LSPI.
2) For A) B), aftermarket IC but using stock boost pipes. Really any would do, my sights are on Pumaspeeds (edit: Wagner would have been better as it has a proper kit for stock pipes). Keeping IATs low means the ECU will not crank up boost to keep power, meaning better/consistant response. Also NA response remains good. Also look for measures to getting more cold air in the intake when the flap opens.
3) For D), but also helps response in B): HJS EU6d-temp ECE metal cat downpipe
4) For D) E) F): programmable box so I can finetune the power curve to keep increasing power to redline (purple line below) past 4k where AFR's are safe. Not the most area under the curve so not fastest, but also lower load and heat, helping reliability. Basically taking back the hardware gains in reliability margins from 1) 2) and 3) back to stock-ish levels of heat. Logging required for finetuning, probably add very little boost sub 4k just to take home possible response gains from the hardware.
JB4 or upcoming HKS are the candidates right now.

97D548BB-1EE5-4DA6-9C18-BF6B44629B20.jpeg

Graph from Diyman dyno graph, hardware with and without (dtuk) box. Yellow line and purple line added.

All this should result in an even more very enjoyable drive, with amazing response also when weather gets hotter and great fun to use the whole revrange. With practically no downside on reliability, longevity and other stuff that are longer term considerations. Strictly speaking warranty is out the window but an understanding technician should at least let you keep unrelated engine warranty.

Above my current ideas. Actual implementation is allowed to take its time.

Feel free to discuss...
 
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Seriously consider after market boost pipes especially with an after market IC, the factory ones are quite restrictive
 
Seriously consider after market boost pipes especially with an after market IC, the factory ones are quite restrictive
I have. They give some power gain but I value response higher, even if it's only 0,06s difference whatever:

If anyone is interested in highest possible power, measured performance or laptimes, recommended indeed to upgrade them while at it...
 
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I'm kinda on the same boat. I just want it to be a fun, reliable car that takes a regular trashing with ease. Not really set on any upgrades yet, mainly budgeting on maintenance and new bumpers (I'll need them eventually, judging by how many times I've ragged the car through banks of snow).

Softer suspension with increased ride height along with the HJS downpipe would be the first bits to go on the car.
 
I'm quite happy (at least for now) with the Performance GR's engine provides. I seldom drive more than few seconds WOT so adding more power doesn't really change the driving as such. Maybe like too twisty roads in the first place but overall approach is to keep speeds low and get the chassis and rear tires working so in that equation power isn't necessarily the limiting factor. Of course when driving on dry asphalt it will be more obviuous.

The beauty of GR is for me to learn to play with weight transfer and how to use brakes and throttle in combination in getting out the best slides.

To the topic, HJS DP is maybe the best option in addition to improved intercooler.
Or maybe a deer brace to avoid any obstacles during early morning recce?
 
For me now, during winter, it's fine as. Great response and plenty power. On my logs I rarely venture past 4k and *not* going slow.

But I can already see, for summer driving, that I'll be wanting to go as outlined above, both to keep the engagement from low ambient temps, but also revving out will become a more regular part of my driving enjoyment repertoire...
 
Updates:

- IC ordered, data driven, I get charge cooler temps +20°C above ambient on enthusiast winter driving (not even using all the power), from experience delta gets worse in summer, a good IC should drop that right down.

- More logging it's clear that when the airbox flap opens @4k rpm, inlet temps (measured by MAF) go up 15-20 degrees (WOT to redline) (meaning air sucked from the flap is even hotter). Now testing Helmut Eders 3D printed intake, first logging impressions it seems to work but need to drive more and get engine proper hot to see if it holds up in those conditions.

- In that matter, also considered the duct in the front, and while it's called 'cool air intake' in the parts catalogue (thanks @DeanoC), I'm not sure it's the Cool air AIRBOX intake, or rather Cool air ENGINE BAY Intake. Judging by this pic I took, it is very much missing the mark => airbox flap, leading me to believe it's the latter, i.e. general engine bay cooling

VideoCapture_20220303-213528.jpg


So this inclines me to look for ways to get cold air to the flap in other ways, either the Helmut Eder intake under test now, or bit expensive but very nice looking is the Forge carbon duct...
EDIT: or on second... well no, many more... thoughts, redirecting that front scoop to the airbox flap inlet doesn't remove the air from the 'general engine bay' either, so might actually just do that just as Dean did.


- To prevent heat soak, getting heat out of the top of the engine bay is positive. I might just take out the foam rubber corner fillings near the hood hinges... Some more engine bay noise I suppose and just gonna check if water ingress could be an issue (running down from windscreen)....
 
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Check if theres some space in the front where you would normally place some hose for breaks cooling. If no break cooling needed you could place the hose breathing the air to the airbox flap.



A) Off boost response is great
- IC ordered
Please report after ic change if that response changes. Im very interrested in that detail.
 
Personally I think the cooling conversation is too often focussed on the intake. It just isn't that important on a little 1.6 boosting to 25psi. Especially via that silly little hole under the bonnet. It's after the turbo that will start to peg you back as you heat soak.

Interesting thought on the foam bits. I'm seriously considering bonnet vents 😬
 
Increase before turbo = increase after turbo. Ic only works after turbo, so why not lower both temps? Air volume from stock intake is fine for some decent hp gain, so no need to change, but temps is always a big thing and easy to manage....in my opinion
 
Increase before turbo = increase after turbo. Ic only works after turbo, so why not lower both temps? Air volume from stock intake is fine for some decent hp gain, so no need to change, but temps is always a big thing and easy to manage....in my opinion

Yes but not 1:1 is it. 25 psi at about 80% compressor efficiency and 20.c ambient has got to be north of 150.c out of the turbo. I see intake temps peaking about 40.c. 75% lower. The air is moving through the system quickly. Like you say volume is good, I run over 20% more MAF on stock with no issue to linearity. I bet people who have lost the torque flap and try and draw all of the air from the tiny hole under the bonnet will save 1 or 2 degrees but loose response and high RPM flow.

I just think 3d printing silly bits of plastic is easy for people to make money from punters on the interwebs....
 
Yes but not 1:1 is it. 25 psi at about 80% compressor efficiency and 20.c ambient has got to be north of 150.c out of the turbo. I see intake temps peaking about 40.c. 75% lower. The air is moving through the system quickly. Like you say volume is good, I run over 20% more MAF on stock with no issue to linearity. I bet people who have lost the torque flap and try and draw all of the air from the tiny hole under the bonnet will save 1 or 2 degrees but loose response and high RPM flow.

I just think 3d printing silly bits of plastic is easy for people to make money from punters on the interwebs....
You're collecting data so your opinion counts. At the same time, if you can reduce intake temp, it helps the delta AND compressor efficiency as the air coming in there is denser. So I'm pretty sure it helps. The hole in the front isn't that small, at least for 300hp it's plenty, maybe not for 400-500hp builds
As said, I'm not gunning for power but for response, in this case temps serve the same goal, but don't need massive flow or no concerns about pressure losses - MPS has tested the stock intake and it didn't gain any power at all completely opening up the box and pointing the lid into the dyno fan (running 330hp Syvecs only) and it allowed for 400hp on the stock turbo/unopened engine...
 
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Personally I think the cooling conversation is too often focussed on the intake. It just isn't that important on a little 1.6 boosting to 25psi. Especially via that silly little hole under the bonnet. It's after the turbo that will start to peg you back as you heat soak.

Interesting thought on the foam bits. I'm seriously considering bonnet vents 😬
Bonnet vents are cool 😎

Agree on intake when spending 1k£+, sure it looks nice but better spend that on an IC...
 
Please report after ic change if that response changes. Im very interrested in that detail.
I can already answer off boost response will be better compared to a heat soaked IC as high manifold temp will reduce off boost response. However when it isn't, the added volume might affect turbo spool/lag when compressing the air volume. But I chose what I think should be the best IC that least affects this and keeps OE boost pipes and also should have good recovery after soak. If it is good I will give my recommendation.
 
Check if theres some space in the front where you would normally place some hose for breaks cooling. If no break cooling needed you could place the hose breathing the air to the airbox flap.

It's quite tight in there but I'll order such a hose (from local do88) and see what I can come up with.
 
It's quite tight in there but I'll order such a hose (from local do88) and see what I can come up with.
Step 1: literal 'footprint' of the cool air intake duct end, for reference
20220306_113424.webp

Step 2: ordered hose, my master plan is to just shove the hose in the duct and hope I can get it out of harms way of the shifter weight that is roaming about and direct it to the flap obviously.
 
You're collecting data so your opinion counts. At the same time, if you can reduce intake temp, it helps the delta AND compressor efficiency as the air coming in there is denser. So I'm pretty sure it helps. The hole in the front isn't that small, at least for 300hp it's plenty, maybe not for 400-500hp builds
As said, I'm not gunning for power but for response, in this case temps serve the same goal, but don't need massive flow or no concerns about pressure losses - MPS has tested the stock intake and it didn't gain any power at all completely opening up the box and pointing the lid into the dyno fan (running 330hp Syvecs only) and it allowed for 400hp on the stock turbo/unopened engine...
mps also reported intake temps from above 50 all stock ....so I think ic AND intake improvement is worth a look. just my opinion. I keep using stock airbox for as long as possible....
 
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