GR86 Oil cooler kit options - EU

Would an alternative be to add high flowing dry brake connections to the cooler circuit somewhere accessible. It could be easily disconnected in winter with a small section of hose swapped in effectively looping it minus the cooler?
I suppose yes, that would work.
 
So, here are our conclusions so far regarding oil coolers in Europe:

- All radiator-type coolers have the problem that they remain 10–15% open, even if they have a thermostat, to prevent sudden temperature changes. At normal motorway temperatures, the oil will cool down too much, so ideally the radiator should be covered in summer.

- The HEL radiator has a good core (Setrab), but some users have reported leaks at the connectors.

- Mishimoto has a low quality core, probably affecting oil pressure more than Setrab cores.

- Ansix Auto offers a good option to prevent overcooling, but we have to import it from the USA or Canada.

I still can't see a clear choice; perhaps I won't install one and I will just do a hotlap and then cool down with another lap.
 
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So, here are our conclusions so far regarding oil coolers in Europe:

- All radiator-type coolers have the problem that they remain 10–15% open, even if they have a thermostat, to prevent sudden temperature changes. At normal motorway temperatures, the oil will cool down too much, so ideally the radiator should be covered in summer.

- The HEL radiator has a good core (Setrab), but some users have reported leaks at the connectors.

- Mishimoto has a low quality core, probably affecting oil pressure more than Setrab cores.

- Ansix Auto offers a good option to prevent overcooling, but we have to import it from the USA or Canada.

I still can't see a clear choice; perhaps I won't install one and I will just do a hotlap and then cool down with another lap.
Which users have reported leaks at the connectors for the HEL unit? Mine is the 13 Row HEL kit and is completely dry, been on for 10k miles now.

@GRinning have you had any leaks with yours?
 
So, here are our conclusions so far regarding oil coolers in Europe:

- All radiator-type coolers have the problem that they remain 10–15% open, even if they have a thermostat, to prevent sudden temperature changes. At normal motorway temperatures, the oil will cool down too much, so ideally the radiator should be covered in summer.

- The HEL radiator has a good core (Setrab), but some users have reported leaks at the connectors.

- Mishimoto has a low quality core, probably affecting oil pressure more than Setrab cores.

- Ansix Auto offers a good option to prevent overcooling, but we have to import it from the USA or Canada.

I still can't see a clear choice; perhaps I won't install one and I will just do a hotlap and then cool down with another lap.
I'd go with a oil to water cooler. Like a Mocal Laminova. My intention is to fit a C43-182 on the main radiator outlet hose, keeps the oil runs extremely short to the sandwich plate and wont suffer with the overcooling characteristics of an air to oil cooler. The stock cooling system is good so has the capacity to reject the additional heat from the cooler.

Here is one fitted to a Cosworth supercharged GT86 that is used on track.

1000069520.webp
 
I run the Greddy oil cooler. It's good enough for my track days. On the road, even in winter, when fully warmed up, I am seeing 75deg+.

I kept the factory water cooled oil cooler set up too, maybe that is what is keeping the temps up in winter.


 
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I run the Greddy oil cooler. It's good enough for my track days. On the road, even in winter, when fully warmed up, I am seeing 75deg+.

I kept the factory water cooled oil cooler set up too, maybe that is what is keeping the temps up in winter.



75ºC is not enough. The ideal temperature in our car is approximately 98 degrees. Below 80 degrees the viscosity isn't optimal and the fluid isn't operating within the correct temperature range; moreover, it doesn't reach a high enough temperature to evaporate moisture. This is overcooling and should be avoided.
 
75ºC is not enough. The ideal temperature in our car is approximately 98 degrees. Below 80 degrees the viscosity isn't optimal and the fluid isn't operating within the correct temperature range; moreover, it doesn't reach a high enough temperature to evaporate moisture. This is overcooling and should be avoided.
Thanks for the insight. Luckily for me, my car is not a daily driver and oil is changed after every 2 track days, so in reality around every 600miles. When I do use it on the road, its more of a maintenance drive, where I push the car hard to get 100+ temps.

In addition, oil doesn't need to hit 100c + to burn off moisture. It will evaporate at anything above freezing temp just the higher the temp the faster the evaporation. I'm not sure where the factory oil temp sender is located but I think when the oil passes through the engine around the head, its temp is more enough to evaporate the moisture.
 
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