Maybe Toyota will offer customers a 45Nm torque upgrade for £1000!It might at least understeer a bit less!
(sorry, I'll get my coat....)
GR Yaris (Gen 2) GR Yaris Mk2 (MY2024->)
- Thread starter Michael Knight
- Start date
I did some more testing and adjustments.
Front from toe in to toe out
Rear toe is reduced.
Much better now could go even more extreme and put zero toe on the rear.
Drifted some roundabouts in track and gravel mode.
Track mode is nice when you begin the slide on throttle but when you need less throttle the car shifts to 60/40 and you get dangerous understeer midcorner.
Gravel mode is better but you need to steer more thru understeer to rotate the car.
Gravel mode is for a long corner also to much understeer. You need trail brake into a corner otherwise when the car pulls on the front wheels you get understeer again. The 30/70 was perfect for this a pity we don’t have it anymore. Also the 50/50 setting on the mk1 was better.
The only thing which is better you get more confidence when you pull the handbrake before the corner and then throttle it out. This is because it the pulls more on the front end and straighten it out.
But mk1 setting were nicer and gave more fun! Maybe the mk2 is faster with these settings but i don’t have to win the WRC! We just want maximum fun!
The mk2 has also more turbo lag then the mk1! Maybe the -45nm for the Aero gives less lag!
Front from toe in to toe out
Rear toe is reduced.
Much better now could go even more extreme and put zero toe on the rear.
Drifted some roundabouts in track and gravel mode.
Track mode is nice when you begin the slide on throttle but when you need less throttle the car shifts to 60/40 and you get dangerous understeer midcorner.
Gravel mode is better but you need to steer more thru understeer to rotate the car.
Gravel mode is for a long corner also to much understeer. You need trail brake into a corner otherwise when the car pulls on the front wheels you get understeer again. The 30/70 was perfect for this a pity we don’t have it anymore. Also the 50/50 setting on the mk1 was better.
The only thing which is better you get more confidence when you pull the handbrake before the corner and then throttle it out. This is because it the pulls more on the front end and straighten it out.
But mk1 setting were nicer and gave more fun! Maybe the mk2 is faster with these settings but i don’t have to win the WRC! We just want maximum fun!
The mk2 has also more turbo lag then the mk1! Maybe the -45nm for the Aero gives less lag!
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From what I remember Toyota was pretty transparent about their goal with the mk2 : make it more stable than the mk1. So everything you observed in the way it corners seems consistent with that.
That understeer mid corner you experienced comes from the fact that you lift mid-corner which is a big no-no in pretty much any car, yes the dynamic track mode will go to 60:40 but also the weight transfer will send you into a tree if you do that at the grip limit (which is usually where you're at mid-corner if you drive it fast enough).
I don't know about the turbo lag I've never driven a mk1, many reviews said it was the opposite but also many are paid shills so who know?
It is not a total throttle lift midcorner that is dangerously. If you lift a bit the ecu shifts to 60/40 that is dangerous also because youre front end is pointing to trees then.
I don't know how many of you check your engine oil regularly... I don't often, but I do... It seems like my oil has increased, and I'm not sure if the smell is normal, given that they're full of additives, or if it's a gasoline mix... Has anyone ever smelled anything like this? Unfortunately, I use my car every day for "short" trips, like 10 km, to go to work... could something be causing it? Anyway, I'll continue checking it over the next few days to see if it has actually increased or not.
TheManWithTheStick
Obsessed member
I personally wouldn't do 10km trips in this car. After 10 of them, 5 days, you've done 100km on a cold engine!
In fact I try to avoid starting the GR unless it will get fully warmed - at least 75c oil temp - which can take around 10 mins or more (I ignore the dash warning as oil is still thick when that goes away around 50c). I'm reluctant to start the GR for anything less than a 20 mile round trip.
In fact I try to avoid starting the GR unless it will get fully warmed - at least 75c oil temp - which can take around 10 mins or more (I ignore the dash warning as oil is still thick when that goes away around 50c). I'm reluctant to start the GR for anything less than a 20 mile round trip.
I use it as a daily driver (also because I only have this one) then I think that it is still a car, I should not be afraid to use it in any way... anyway here it is never excessively cold, every time I arrive at work the engine oil is already between 70 and 75... it takes me 12 minutes to get to work... since it is cold I take it very calmly
edit: then if we want to be picky, even if you do 20km the first 10km would still be cold every day... it would still be 100km done cold per week, the only change is that you finish the thermal cycle instead of interrupting it... however I add that on the way back I sometimes extend the ride to warm it up... but honestly in the morning I don't leave early for the car
I'm too sleepy
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TheManWithTheStick
Obsessed member
Fair enough! It's your car so you do as you wish.
I just don't think its good for any engine to do such short journeys on a regular basis. I bought a cheap PHEV for this sort of thing (plus my Great Donkeyane won't fit in the GR)
I just don't think its good for any engine to do such short journeys on a regular basis. I bought a cheap PHEV for this sort of thing (plus my Great D
- Dec 27, 2021
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It rarely takes more than 5 mins for the oil temperature to reach 70°C, even at this time of the year, so even short journeys of 10 min or so will see the car fully up to temp.
Edit: I did a test today. Ambient temperature in my garage was around 17°C when I started the car, began logging as soon as I could connect to the ECU through the app.
It took exactly 240 seconds, or 4 minutes, for the engine oil to reach 70°C. At no point was the engine taken about 4,000 rpm, boost used, or the engine laboured. The coolant temperature reached 90°C about 40 seconds earlier at which point you can see the effect of the thermostat closing and the coolant temp. start to fluctuate.
That's quick. There is some advantage to having a piddly little 3-pot!
If the car had been outside, ambient about 4°C, then it would have taken another minute or so to get to temp., the increase was fairly linear,
At the end of the day, it is just a car and they are designed to handle this.
Edit: I did a test today. Ambient temperature in my garage was around 17°C when I started the car, began logging as soon as I could connect to the ECU through the app.
It took exactly 240 seconds, or 4 minutes, for the engine oil to reach 70°C. At no point was the engine taken about 4,000 rpm, boost used, or the engine laboured. The coolant temperature reached 90°C about 40 seconds earlier at which point you can see the effect of the thermostat closing and the coolant temp. start to fluctuate.
That's quick. There is some advantage to having a piddly little 3-pot!
If the car had been outside, ambient about 4°C, then it would have taken another minute or so to get to temp., the increase was fairly linear,
At the end of the day, it is just a car and they are designed to handle this.
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TheManWithTheStick
Obsessed member
Okay, you do you, but I'm not going to be using my GR for such short journeys. Lots of cars are supposedly designed to handle 20k service intervals but I think we all know that's probably not the best idea.
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That's exactly what I think... unfortunately the oil level has risen and I'll investigate. The owner's manual says it can rise for short periods and be due to condensation or unburned fuel... I honestly didn't think it was possible, but I hope that's the case and not a problem... I gave it a bit of a beating today and it seems to be fine... it runs well
GRavy_Baby
Obsessed member
It would be a sight to behold if you tried to fit/insert your Great Dane into the GR though. Sat in the passenger seat with a helmet on, the dog would probably require a seat lowering kit.
GRavy_Baby
Obsessed member
An un-warmed engine with catalyst enrichment and a rising oil level is telling me that borewash is occurring. 0W-20 is thin anyway, diluted with fuel rings alarm bells for me. Due to your driving habits, I’d be changing the oil more frequently than the schedule dictates if longevity is the ultimate factor.That's exactly what I think... unfortunately the oil level has risen and I'll investigate. The owner's manual says it can rise for short periods and be due to condensation or unburned fuel... I honestly didn't think it was possible, but I hope that's the case and not a problem... I gave it a bit of a beating today and it seems to be fine... it runs well
GRavy_Baby
Obsessed member
… and to add to the above, these engines specifically need LSPI oil. It’s designed is to prevent oil (fuel contaminated or not) that’s passing the rings igniting. How do your spark plugs look?
I'll change it on March 3rd (it has 3000km on the current oil)... now with the arrival of the hot weather I'll see if it will do it again with the same habits..
I honestly haven't checked them... but could it be that they're contaminated with fuel but aren't at risk of LSPI? The Toyota garage I go to even said that the level wasn't high, with me standing next to them pointing out that the 0-20 with such few miles is so clear that you have to strain a bit to see the top part... but no, they kept saying that the level was lower where it was dirtier... I even showed them a photo... nothing...
the level from October to today (3000km) in my opinion has gone up a lot due to being contaminated by unburned fuel.... but I don't even know what problems it could have given that the car seems to be running fine, boost ok, temp ok, oil pressure ok...,,
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YeahButNoBut
Devoted member
Finally got the notification that my GRY is on the way!Still no changes in the app. Left the factory 16-01. No idea if waiting for a few weeks for a vessel is 'normal'? Request date by dealer was set at April, so maybe that is why?
Garage renovations are just about to start anyway, so I'm not in a rush. April seems like good timing for everything to be finished and my GRY to arrive.
question to those who have done ecutek and have dat8: from the original when you change gear you see the turbo pressure drop slightly and then go back up (the ecu cuts torque to allow the gear change), when the ecu is done, does it continue to do this "drop" when changing gear or is it eliminated?
Today I left the car in the workshop for a dashboard update... I know for a fact that they used it and just before taking it out of the workshop they disconnected the dashcam cables, this action made me doubt that they did something stupid... if in the worst case scenario they pulled it from cold, I know that the rev limiter moves as the temperature increases..., but does anyone know if the turbo is already at 100%?
I reckon you can get a new engine…..
It’s pretty standard for engineers to disable dashcams during servicing.
