GR Yaris Rust

Euge said:
That’s what I did last year. Was planning to get mine done properly this year but running out of time before winter so looks like it might be a top up of dynax on the drive again.
Click to expand...
Getting it done properly is one thing I guess, but for the money and aggro, I think getting it up in the air once a year for another coating of Dynax will do me.
I did my van back in June last year and it's still looking good.
 
CerN said:
And smaller spiders!
Click to expand...
Spiders aren't bad. Or the snakes though eastern browns get a bit angry. I was talking with a guy when we were buying a local sim here for a modem and he asked all the usual questions. How far from the city (Brisbane) are you. 22km. Do you have spiders or snakes. Yes. And wallabies and possums and bandicoots and... he wanted more info on the snakes and was horrified when I told him occasionally tree snakes fall onto the tractor when I bump a tree mowing. I don't think he is going to visit. Tree snakes are very quiet and pretty much non venomous.
 
speeddemon666 said:
What kind of temperatures do you get in Summer?
Click to expand...
Us? Official data is winter lows of 10 to summer peak of 30. Reality is 0 to mid 30s. Can be hot and humid. Lots of places higher and lower than that.

This lady was on the move last month.

Harmless python, maybe 3m long so not really a big one.
 
Humptydumptyhadabigone said:
Us? Official data is winter lows of 10 to summer peak of 30. Reality is 0 to mid 30s. Can be hot and humid. Lots of places higher and lower than that.

This lady was on the move last month.

Harmless python, maybe 3m long so not really a big one.
Click to expand...
Bollocks to that going through me garden!
 
Have you guys observed rust even to late Gen1 cars?
I mean rust is kind of important issue, and I wonder how Toyota handles such cases (seem to be many!) via their insurance
Is it like just 3yrs for the chasis and then you are on your own fighting rust, pay for coatings every year etc?

How can they not treat this more seriously and just being able to start applying a decent, standard paint job to what the average car out there has as a minimum?

I m trying to decide whether I m buying this car or not and this rust issue has seriously put me off
I just can't approach this in a same way most see it "enjoy it while it lasts, don't think too much" and so on
I expect any car to be subject to ageing, but not at this pace as some of the cases in this thread suggest :oops:
 
grj said:
Have you guys observed rust even to late Gen1 cars?
I mean rust is kind of important issue, and I wonder how Toyota handles such cases (seem to be many!) via their insurance
Is it like just 3yrs for the chasis and then you are on your own fighting rust, pay for coatings every year etc?

How can they not treat this more seriously and just being able to start applying a decent, standard paint job to what the average car out there has as a minimum?

I m trying to decide whether I m buying this car or not and this rust issue has seriously put me off
I just can't approach this in a same way most see it "enjoy it while it lasts, don't think too much" and so on
I expect any car to be subject to ageing, but not at this pace as some of the cases in this thread suggest :oops:
Click to expand...
All Japanese cars are not as well protected as European cars on the underside, this is a thing that's been evident for decades. It's an easy problem to solve. Mine is coated with Bilt Hamber Dynax UC. I live in a country which sees a load of salt being used on road in winter as it's a winter wonderland with temperatures as low as the -20's. No rust yet in nearly 2 years. Even with a new European car it's possible to get rust due to a stone chip etc. I think you are over worrying, keeping a car clean, protected with either ppf on vulnerable parts or a good durable wax coating and a good underside coating and you will be fine. You are buying a homologation special that has been designed with performance in mind where lightweight is key. I think you will find also the A110 you were also looking at has some issues with rust around wheel arches (thread on pistonheads).
 
grj said:
Have you guys observed rust even to late Gen1 cars?
I mean rust is kind of important issue, and I wonder how Toyota handles such cases (seem to be many!) via their insurance
Is it like just 3yrs for the chasis and then you are on your own fighting rust, pay for coatings every year etc?

How can they not treat this more seriously and just being able to start applying a decent, standard paint job to what the average car out there has as a minimum?

I m trying to decide whether I m buying this car or not and this rust issue has seriously put me off
I just can't approach this in a same way most see it "enjoy it while it lasts, don't think too much" and so on
I expect any car to be subject to ageing, but not at this pace as some of the cases in this thread suggest :oops:
Click to expand...
You're looking for a car that doesn't rust in some way? Good luck with that.
 
Euge said:
All Japanese cars are not as well protected as European cars on the underside, this is a thing that's been evident for decades. It's an easy problem to solve. Mine is coated with Bilt Hamber Dynax UC. I live in a country which sees a load of salt being used on road in winter as it's a winter wonderland with temperatures as low as the -20's. No rust yet in nearly 2 years. Even with a new European car it's possible to get rust due to a stone chip etc. I think you are over worrying, keeping a car clean, protected with either ppf on vulnerable parts or a good durable wax coating and a good underside coating and you will be fine. You are buying a homologation special that has been designed with performance in mind where lightweight is key. I think you will find also the A110 you were also looking at has some issues with rust around wheel arches (thread on pistonheads).
Click to expand...
Hi, thanks for the input
I ve never owned a JP car before, so I couldn't really know that this was like a 'norm'

I believe what you say that 'it can be done' - it's just the hassle of it, and can never really be sure about the quality of the work that will be done (anti-corrosion treatment). So in a way it ll be always be in my mind

And in this country (Germany) they don't make things any easier. You are not even allowed to wash your car in your own backyard, so washing the car needs to be done at a nearby washing station (which I don't have really close). Which means certain times of the year I d be thinking twice about moving the car, as even after washing, my 20min drive back to the garage would expose it to the elements again

Having read this thread few days ago, I was alarmed on how some of these cars looked underneath - its the rate that corrosion takes place and also the associated complexity for those hard-to-reach areas that need to be treated. Without even bringing up the cost factor for maintaining a premium coating here

I had too read the thread about the A110 - but from further research that I ve done and people that I talked - this was mostly the case in some earlier cars. Now rust is not as much of an issue with the A110 (at least not to the extend that some have witnessed here). If you have different feedback and corrosion is still an issue with current A110 cars - you ll be doing me a favor to let me know! Its not always easy getting reliable feedback
But the A110 has a all flat underside which is part of the aero design and not much is exposed as in most other cars, including the GRY. And even if that wasn't the case, you d at least have to focus on the wheel arches which was the area prone to rust. But here I m seeing cases where rust could sprout from just about any part of the car

I would (respectfully) question what you mentioned about the 'lightness' factor. Yes, the focus is all about performance here, but having more substantial coatings/thicker paint wouldn't really make much of a difference in the total weight of the car, but would have a huge positive impact otherwise (protection). It's not like we talk about a McLaren P1 where they purposely didn't put any paint to save like 2kg or whatever...

Brought this up to the dealer I ve been to today (to have another go on a AT GRY). He seemed genuinely surprised and said that 'he did not have any cases on any of the GRYs sold by his dealership. The 10yr warranty for the paint of course good, but the issue here is that the areas prone to rusting are no the paint itself (just pretty much anywhere else there is an exposed metal part). For for the rest, it's only 3yrs, which to me it sounds that it is the period that the first signs of rust take place. But of course you need to consider that not everyone cares as much about a 1mm-2mm spot of rust showing up somewhere, so this probably won't be the case of reaching the dealer's ears. But that doesn't mean it doesn't exist

Don't get me wrong. I love the GRY. Otherwise I wouldn't have considered it in the first place. I drove around here to get several test cars, spend time in it, absolutely love driving it and has the added benefit of being almost 19K cheaper than the spec-ed A110 GTS. Which makes it the value for money option (seriously, even with the inflated price on the Gen2, I don't think the GRY is overpriced)
But just can't overlook such an issue here (rust). And yes, I m overthinking it (like I do with pretty much for everything else I care for)

And I still haven't decided between the AT vs MT dilemma. I was initially going for the AT, but having driven the MT recently, I can see why people here remain so faithfull to it. It's just so much fun, this box. Which makes me wonder how's it possible to even have an even better box (as it is rumored for the FL5). But the AT still has its own advantages, which I can't quite disregard

But anyway, this is something to worry about later - my current problem was with this rust topic
I hope that more people can chip in for examples where 3 to 5yr older cars are somehow rust-free
 
Last edited:
grj said:
Hi, thanks for the input
I ve never owned a JP car before, so I couldn't really know that this was like a 'norm'

I believe what you say that 'it can be done' - it's just the hassle of it, and can never really be sure about the quality of the work that will be done (anti-corrosion treatment). So in a way it ll be always be in my mind

And in this country (Germany) they don't make things any easier. You are not even allowed to wash your car in your own backyard, so washing the car needs to be done at a nearby washing station (which I don't have really close). Which means certain times of the year I d be thinking twice about moving the car, as even after washing, my 20min drive back to the garage would expose it to the elements again

Having read this thread few days ago, I was alarmed on how some of these cars looked underneath - its the rate that corrosion takes place and also the associated complexity for those hard-to-reach areas that need to be treated. Without even bringing up the cost factor for maintaining a premium coating here

I had too read the thread about the A110 - but from further research that I ve done and people that I talked - this was mostly the case in some earlier cars. Now rust is not as much of an issue with the A110 (at least not to the extend that some have witnessed here). If you have different feedback and corrosion is still an issue with current A110 cars - you ll be doing me a favor to let me know! Its not always easy getting reliable feedback
But the A110 has a all flat underside which is part of the aero design and not much is exposed as in most other cars, including the GRY. And even if that wasn't the case, you d at least have to focus on the wheel arches which was the area prone to rust. But here I m seeing cases where rust could sprout from just about any part of the car

I would (respectfully) question what you mentioned about the 'lightness' factor. Yes, the focus is all about performance here, but having more substantial coatings/thicker paint wouldn't really make much of a difference in the total weight of the car, but would have a huge positive impact otherwise (protection). It's not like we talk about a McLaren P1 where they purposely didn't put any paint to save like 2kg or whatever...

Brought this up to the dealer I ve been to today (to have another go on a AT GRY). He seemed genuinely surprised and said that 'he did not have any cases on any of the GRYs sold by his dealership. The 10yr warranty for the paint of course good, but the issue here is that the areas prone to rusting are no the paint itself (just pretty much anywhere else there is an exposed metal part). For for the rest, it's only 3yrs, which to me it sounds that it is the period that the first signs of rust take place. But of course you need to consider that not everyone cares as much about a 1mm-2mm spot of rust showing up somewhere, so this probably won't be the case of reaching the dealer's ears. But that doesn't mean it doesn't exist

Don't get me wrong. I love the GRY. Otherwise I wouldn't have considered it in the first place. I drove around here to get several test cars, spend time in it, absolutely love driving it and has the added benefit of being almost 19K cheaper than the spec-ed A110 GTS. Which makes it the value for money option (seriously, even with the inflated price on the Gen2, I don't think the GRY is overpriced)
But just can't overlook such an issue here (rust). And yes, I m overthinking it (like I do with pretty much for everything else I care for)

And I still haven't decided between the AT vs MT dilemma. I was initially going for the AT, but having driven the MT recently, I can see why people here remain so faithfull to it. It's just so much fun, this box. Which makes me wonder how's it possible to even have an even better box (as it is rumored for the FL5). But the AT still has its own advantages, which I can't quite disregard

But anyway, this is something to worry about later - my current problem was with this rust topic
I hope that more people can chip in for examples where 3 to 5yr older cars are somehow rust-free
Click to expand...
Salt buildup attracts moisture and keeps causing rust.
I’m not entirely sure about the differences in rust-prevention treatments between European and Japanese cars, but I think regular washing is one of the best ways to prevent rust.

I often go skiing in winter, and I usually wash my car on the way home. I owned an Impreza WRX for 17 years, and it had no serious rust even without any special coating.
I’ve now owned a GR Yaris for almost five years using the same routine, and there is very little rust so far.

It may be hard to find a perfect solution in Germany, but I think washing your car as often as possible—ideally once every one or two weeks—really helps. Rust-prevention treatments can help as well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top