GR Yaris GR Endurance Oil

sixtentouge

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Been watching some interesting Japanese videos on the GR Endurance oil 0W-20 and found this guy's channel where he's doing some testing on the shear of quite a few different oils. Done at room temperature, but you get the gist...

He adds 10.2kg of weight every twenty seconds. Not great for testing tiny differences in oils, but some of the results really stand out.

So you don't have to watch all the videos... The standard Toyota 0W-20 SP/GF6A pretty much outperformed other manufacturer's standard 0W-20 oils. For instance, it sheared at 2 seconds into 44.1kg, where Castrol Edge sheared at 3 seconds into 34kg.

The GR Endurance 0W-20 sheared at 2 seconds into 81.4 kg. Four additional weights and 80".

So not super-scientific, but scientific enough to show that the GR Endurance 0W-20 is way better than standard 0W-20 class oils, and keeps oil flow in the engine where it was designed to be with 0W-20.

3X the price of the Standard Toyota 0W-20, though... Just ordered a 20L can.

 
I don't know why I do this... I keep saying I'm going to sell this car, but I keep spending money on it :)

20250926_203126.webp
 
I don't know why I do this... I keep saying I'm going to sell this car, but I keep spending money on it :)
When you talked about the standard Toyota 0w20 oil, were you referring to the one that shows in that photo in the red and white large can?

We can’t get that one either in Europe, dealers don’t stock it, and I have the suspicion that is much better than what dealers offer us here. It looks like is fully synthetic for starters. Best case scenario is a packaging difference which I doubt, though.
 
When you talked about the standard Toyota 0w20 oil, were you referring to the one that shows in that photo in the red and white large can?

We can’t get that one either in Europe, dealers don’t stock it, and I have the suspicion that is much better than what dealers offer us here. It looks like is fully synthetic for starters. Best case scenario is a packaging difference which I doubt, though.
Toyota Motor Oil 0W-20 SP
Toyota 0W-20 Endurance

I've being buying 0W-20 SP from then for some time. Did lab analysis on the used oil in Polaris labs, can confirm that it's genuine.
 
Toyota Motor Oil 0W-20 SP
Toyota 0W-20 Endurance

I've being buying 0W-20 SP from then for some time. Did lab analysis on the used oil in Polaris labs, can confirm that it's genuine.
Have you tried the 0w20 Endurance and analysed it by any chance? Would love to know how it compares to a Ravenol DFE 0w20 for instance. Price wise, it´s very expensive! And not sure if worth it.
 
Have you tried the 0w20 Endurance and analysed it by any chance? Would love to know how it compares to a Ravenol DFE 0w20 for instance. Price wise, it´s very expensive! And not sure if worth it.
No, I haven't. I'm running Toyota 0W-20 SP and I'm quite happy with it for now. The test does show minimal wear, but I'm not tracking my car yet.
 
When you talked about the standard Toyota 0w20 oil, were you referring to the one that shows in that photo in the red and white large can?

We can’t get that one either in Europe, dealers don’t stock it, and I have the suspicion that is much better than what dealers offer us here. It looks like is fully synthetic for starters. Best case scenario is a packaging difference which I doubt, though.

Yes, the standard Toyota SP. The testing I've seen shows it to be very good. The GR Endurance about doubly so. But truth be told, for fast road...you just don't need it. The standard stuff is "super good enough." I was also using Genuine Toyota oils for the transmission, transfer, and rear differential, but the price went so high for that stuff, the Motul 300 Gear is considerably cheaper (and likely much better), so I use that now.
 
The metal tins are rad

And useful once empty :) I have five Toyota/Lexus vehicles and they all use the same stuff. Per liter the 20L cans are much cheaper than the 4L cans.

The GR Endurance is ¥1,739/L (£8.49) in the 20 L can, but ¥2,486/L (£12.13) in the 4L can...
 
Yes, the standard Toyota SP. The testing I've seen shows it to be very good. The GR Endurance about doubly so. But truth be told, for fast road...you just don't need it. The standard stuff is "super good enough." I was also using Genuine Toyota oils for the transmission, transfer, and rear differential, but the price went so high for that stuff, the Motul 300 Gear is considerably cheaper (and likely much better), so I use that now.
Have you tried the GR endurance oil yet? Any noticeable differences vs Toyota Sp? Many thanks, I thought of purchasing the endurance, but the cost is nearly triple a very good EU oil.
 
Have you tried the GR endurance oil yet? Any noticeable differences vs Toyota Sp? Many thanks, I thought of purchasing the endurance, but the cost is nearly triple a very good EU oil.
Zero. I just get wrapped up in the "extra protection," but when this 20L can is done, I'll be going back to the Toyota SP.

I'm from "years ago," a time where if you wanted to modify something like a KP Starlet, you had to make all of the parts yourself. So I'm stuck in this loop of wanting to make the Yaris better, so I buy stuff...and it doesn't make it better for what I do with the car... Like one day I'll be ready to pull the trigger on a set of AST/Moton legs...then I'll come to grips with reality, which is that it won't make the car any better for how I use it...but I'll be $5k poorer...pathetic :)

I don't track the car, just the Japan equivalent of the "B road." Things have changed, and you can't push a car on public roads like we did in the 1990s, so my oil temp would only rarely hit 120°C. Once I installed the 7-row heat exchanger, it never goes above 110°C.
 
Zero. I just get wrapped up in the "extra protection," but when this 20L can is done, I'll be going back to the Toyota SP.

I'm from "years ago," a time where if you wanted to modify something like a KP Starlet, you had to make all of the parts yourself. So I'm stuck in this loop of wanting to make the Yaris better, so I buy stuff...and it doesn't make it better for what I do with the car... Like one day I'll be ready to pull the trigger on a set of AST/Moton legs...then I'll come to grips with reality, which is that it won't make the car any better for how I use it...but I'll be $5k poorer...pathetic :)

I don't track the car, just the Japan equivalent of the "B road." Things have changed, and you can't push a car on public roads like we did in the 1990s, so my oil temp would only rarely hit 120°C. Once I installed the 7-row heat exchanger, it never goes above 110°C.
Many Thanks for your feedback. What about the 7 row heat exchanger, is that the GR Corolla or GR Yaris mk2 one?
 
Zero. I just get wrapped up in the "extra protection," but when this 20L can is done, I'll be going back to the Toyota SP.

I'm from "years ago," a time where if you wanted to modify something like a KP Starlet, you had to make all of the parts yourself. So I'm stuck in this loop of wanting to make the Yaris better, so I buy stuff...and it doesn't make it better for what I do with the car... Like one day I'll be ready to pull the trigger on a set of AST/Moton legs...then I'll come to grips with reality, which is that it won't make the car any better for how I use it...but I'll be $5k poorer...pathetic :)

I don't track the car, just the Japan equivalent of the "B road." Things have changed, and you can't push a car on public roads like we did in the 1990s, so my oil temp would only rarely hit 120°C. Once I installed the 7-row heat exchanger, it never goes above 110°C.
I'm also from years ago and agree with everything you say. I have managed though and accept this little car as is for all it's foibles.
 
Many Thanks for your feedback. What about the 7 row heat exchanger, is that the GR Corolla or GR Yaris mk2 one?
GR Corolla. I don't know what's in the Gen 2 Yaris.
 
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