GR Yaris What did you do to your GR Yaris today?

Hi, This is on my list when I need a new battery, It just seems plug and play in that the LiPoe charges via the normal alternator and stuff. But, it says you need a special charger, doesn't make sense?
 
I have this (alhtough maybe older model, at least different graphics), little bit lighter.
your post made me curious, so I went back to my garage. thing is my „bathroom“ scale apparently refuses to weight things lower than appr. 5kgs. but then I remembered I had a fishing scale somewhere:

IMG_4506.webp
 
your post made me curious, so I went back to my garage. thing is my „bathroom“ scale apparently refuses to weight things lower than appr. 5kgs. but then I remembered I had a fishing scale somewhere:
cool. looks to be more or less the same weight then.
 
Hi, This is on my list when I need a new battery, It just seems plug and play in that the LiPoe charges via the normal alternator and stuff. But, it says you need a special charger, doesn't make sense?
yeah, that stuff is still bit under a mystery haze. my (uneducated) guess is, that the warning applies on "modern" chargers with impulses and charging logics (battery revival, desulphating, etc.).

the battery pack itself should (must) have a BMS inside, so best way to charge them is by constant current and constant voltage. this could also apply for an old-school transformer type of battery charger. or like in my case a charger intended for RC-battery packs. I will not buy the original charger.
 
Winter ready!
Put on winter tyres, removed the Armaspeed front lip and sides of rear diffusor so they don't brake in the snow (at least I hope it's gonna snow).
Few days ago removed rear diff vent and front brakes vents for the same reason. Noticed my 2nd set of front pads and front discs are gone (24k km), so ordered new set. While at it, added a @HRNSHN-Racing brake cooling kit in the order for next summer. Switched TRD undertray for Hardrace aluminum one. Lanoguard is already on the way, seems I'm all set for winter!
Gotta say, after few month with Armaspeed front lip, car looks naked without it now...
 
I have this (alhtough maybe older model, at least different graphics), little bit lighter.
Do you have it on a charger?
I'd like one of those but I typically only start the car once every three weeks and can't have the battery on a charger - just wondering if it would go flat in the meantime.
 
Do you have it on a charger?
I'd like one of those but I typically only start the car once every three weeks and can't have the battery on a charger - just wondering if it would go flat in the meantime.
In practice no.
I sometimes let it charge in a charger, maybe 4 times a year. If I have had car unused for +2wks.
But in practice I guess it doesn't really need it. My car is in garage so doesn't go under +10'C.

The manufacturer said that if car stays stationary +4wks you should get the 40Ah version. so depends on how you get it charged. if you do 200km trip every three weeks I would guess you will be fine with 20Ah version too. Only driving short km's around city, maybe not so.
 
In practice no.
I sometimes let it charge in a charger, maybe 4 times a year. If I have had car unused for +2wks.
But in practice I guess it doesn't really need it. My car is in garage so doesn't go under +10'C.

The manufacturer said that if car stays stationary +4wks you should get the 40Ah version. so depends on how you get it charged. if you do 200km trip every three weeks I would guess you will be fine with 20Ah version too. Only driving short km's around city, maybe not so.
It's mostly for longer trips and driving on country roads :) I guess I'd go for the 40Ah version though, just to be sure. Thank you for your Feedback!
 
It's mostly for longer trips and driving on country roads :) I guess I'd go for the 40Ah version though, just to be sure. Thank you for your Feedback!
to my understanding its only 2kg heavier so likely a good choice. (looked up the CS-batterie variant)
 
Fitted a replacement wing mirror cap after a SUV clipped me on a narrow road and took the other one off. Luckily all the gubbins still worked and the glass wasn't cracked. The replacement clipped in fine.
 
Flat tyre and no places available until
Monday to fix / replace. So if I want to drive for fun this weekend might be a case of swapping back over to stock wheels urgh. It was normal pressure in the morning then 19 in evening and 9 overnight so a slow puncture somewhere.
 
Did an alignment the other day, to get ready for my first track day - Grobnik 21-9. Reduced rear toe out to zero.
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Picked up 2 extra sets of lens for DD fog lights, both white (running yellow now), but one set is Fog, other Combo - mixing high beam assist and fog lens.
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Eventuri finally arrived, just in time, my 3d printed intake had melted 🫠
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You're sticking to -2.5 degrees front camber, despite being one of the few to have posted about it potentially compromising braking performance to some extent.

I've seen people reducing negative camber to -2.5 (eg from -3 or even more aggressive) but nobody complaining about -2.5 being too much to the point of needing to do something about it.

I guess -3 is GReat for the track, but -2.5 is probably the sweet spot for road, including but not limited to spirited drives, for cars with stock suspension.

For further enhancements, I guess you then only play with toe, caster & antilift at the front, as well as rear camber & toe.
 
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Yes, I did the last alignment just for my first track day. Also it was done in another shop on different machine, decided to run -2.5 to see how it is. Having driven it for a while now, seems quite ok, but I will reduce it a bit for winter now. Probably -2.1 front -2.0 rears.
 
It's currently sat at RRG Macclesfield having it's first service.
Only done 1400 miles, I need to do more next year, it's wasted sat on the drive!!
It's (mostly) not about quantity, but about quality. 20000 miles/yr sat in city traffic and 70mph on the motorways only is just as big a waste, if not much more!
 
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