GR Yaris Suspension clunking noise when turning

gazYar

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Not great.. car lowered after 100+ miles, clunking noises when turning the steering wheel... any ideas?

 
No just 25mm fixed whiteline nothing fancy. Powerlex camber bolts and whiteline caster bushings
 
Yes I was going to say the same. It sounds like a spring jumping
Is it still safe to drive? Happens low speeds and turning parking etc. I need to go back to the garage which is 1 hr drive…
 
No just 25mm fixed whiteline nothing fancy. Powerlex camber bolts and whiteline caster bushings
Still possible that the spring isn't properly settled on the perch, or on the top bearing.
Alternatively, open hood and listen if the top bearing is giving noised from the top.
 
I agree spring binding/skipping on the perch. Was there meant to be a shim or spacer? Both sides? As above take the weight off the front end by setting the car on stands and see if the noise is still there. Take the wheels off and look. I think you will see the spring not rotating smoothly. Some coilovers are particular with spring orientation otherwise the spring catches.
 
Question is it safe to head back to the garage to resolve it? 60 miles drive…
 
If it's the springs binding, most likely. My suspension on another car sounds a lot worse and is fine
 
If it's the springs binding, most likely. My suspension on another car sounds a lot worse and is fine
Looks indeed like the whiteline lowering springs bind in the middle by design. Spray on some wd40 on the areas where the spring coils touch each other to see if that takes away the noise. Long term solution then could be to add rubber sleeves on the spring wire.
 
Noise wasn’t there until 100 miles driving. Could be some dodgy install.
 
Could it also be the plastic bearing?
 
Definitely take the wheels off and look. If nothing is loose or broken then the return trip should be OK. Check for displaced rubber or plastic guides. Did it rain while you were driving? That could have washed away some lube though it shouldn't need any. WD40 etc is a good idea just keep it well away from pads and rotors.

I had the bottom of a strut on a 4wd snap because the moron fitting it torqued the bushes while the car was on the hoist. Self weight then put side load on the lower eye which failed. That was fun. I drove that home about 150km and about half was low range 4wd where it was likely to cock a wheel.
 
Is it still safe to drive? Happens low speeds and turning parking etc. I need to go back to the garage which is 1 hr drive…
I’d say it would be safe to drive yeah but If it were mine I’d lift it up and take the weeks of just to check if it’s something obvious.

If you put your hand on the top mount while it’s clunking can you fee it through the mount/strut?

Best to take a wheel off and You might see paint removed on the springs or somewhere - I think it’s the coils touching or the spring moving in the perch or top mount but it may not be

We’re there meant to be plastic isolation on the whiteline springs maybe like the OEM rear springs?


The OEM front springs only have a few coils they’re large spaced out - not sure about whiteline but maybe they’re rubbing


The is is my car with the plastic isolation on the rear springs - don’t think there’s any in the fronts but the gap between coils is massive on OEM

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Our mk7 golf GTI groans on full lock reversing over bumps but doesn’t knock like that but it’s similar

My Leon cupra 290 also did it.

Wd40 or similar sprayed on the ARB bushes and rubber parts on the strut makes it go away


before you tighten the ARB drop links I always put weight on the car first

If you lift the car up and don’t see anything obvious spray some lube into the arb bushes and try it
 
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I think you may need some plastic isolation like these have though
 
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Noise wasn’t there until 100 miles driving. Could be some dodgy install.
If you think it's a 'dodgy install' then don't head back. Find someone local who you trust to look at it.

I agree with the binding spring theory. You get it a lot with coilovers, which is one reason why I stick to conventional suspension now - oh, it saves wasting money too. ;)
 
Spoke to the installer and they are gonna order OEM parts for RH & LH 48619-K0010 (484719) , before going back to them.

The OEM bits are plastic and number of other owners have experienced issues with them.

Might look long term and get DNA Racing adjustable top mounts. @Araf - yes sure does waste money but I enjoy spending my money on it :D

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I have had the struts apart before and lining up the bearing on the shaft can be an issue. You can assemble the strut without using spring compressors by just using the nut, but if you do it this way then you cannot see the bearing start on the shaft as you tighten the top nut to compress the spring.
You need to compress the spring and then start the bearing on the shaft, fit the strut top and then tighten the nut.
 
I have had the struts apart before and lining up the bearing on the shaft can be an issue. You can assemble the strut without using spring compressors by just using the nut, but if you do it this way then you cannot see the bearing start on the shaft as you tighten the top nut to compress the spring.
You need to compress the spring and then start the bearing on the shaft, fit the strut top and then tighten the nut.
thanks... will pass this info to the mechs.
 
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