I recently decided I'm finally going to get around to having my steering wheel retrimmed. Something I've always wanted to do, but put off due to potentially having to leave the car immobile while its done. But I've just agreed to buy a well-worn second hand OEM wheel from another user with a view to sending that off to be trimmed while I keep my original.
Despite watching and reading several tutorials, I'm still a bit nervous about the removal procedure...it seems it's very easy to muck up, so I just wanted to canvass opinions from those who've done it...how difficult/scary is it really?
The basic procedure I know should be:
- Park the car with the steering wheel as straight as possible.
- Disconnect battery to discharge the airbag
- Remove and disconnect the airbag, and other connectors left linking to the clock spring.
- Crack off the 17mm nut securing the wheel, but leave it on, then rock the wheel to loosen it.
- Remove the nut fully, then gently withdraw the wheel and ensure that the airbag wiring is passed through to ensure the clock spring isn't disturbed/pulled apart.
...then hopefully it's just a case of reversing the procedure to put the new wheel on.
Seems fairly straightforward, but I've got a few queries for those have done it.
- Should the steering lock be engaged? I know it should be straight, but I read on the US forum about someone who ran into difficulty when, while trying to undo the nut, they ended up moving the wheel and the lock engaged. I'm guessing this is because the wheel would have to be moved off centre to engage the lock. So, don't engage it and just be careful to hold the wheel firmly while undoing the nut?
- How delicate is the clock spring? In the videos I've seen, it looks like the main risk is that pulling the wheel off pulls the clock spring "out" as well. If the clock spring rotation is disturbed during the procedure, is it a big deal as long as it's returned to the 12 o'clock before the new wheel goes back on?
- Seen a few posts where people have found that they need a wheel alignment after replacing the wheel, despite making sure it was dead straight beforehand. Is this more of a risk with aftermarket wheels possibly having their locating splines machines slight differently? I'm hoping as I'm swapping for an OEM wheel I won't have the same problem.
Any advice or pointers appreciated.
Despite watching and reading several tutorials, I'm still a bit nervous about the removal procedure...it seems it's very easy to muck up, so I just wanted to canvass opinions from those who've done it...how difficult/scary is it really?
The basic procedure I know should be:
- Park the car with the steering wheel as straight as possible.
- Disconnect battery to discharge the airbag
- Remove and disconnect the airbag, and other connectors left linking to the clock spring.
- Crack off the 17mm nut securing the wheel, but leave it on, then rock the wheel to loosen it.
- Remove the nut fully, then gently withdraw the wheel and ensure that the airbag wiring is passed through to ensure the clock spring isn't disturbed/pulled apart.
...then hopefully it's just a case of reversing the procedure to put the new wheel on.
Seems fairly straightforward, but I've got a few queries for those have done it.
- Should the steering lock be engaged? I know it should be straight, but I read on the US forum about someone who ran into difficulty when, while trying to undo the nut, they ended up moving the wheel and the lock engaged. I'm guessing this is because the wheel would have to be moved off centre to engage the lock. So, don't engage it and just be careful to hold the wheel firmly while undoing the nut?
- How delicate is the clock spring? In the videos I've seen, it looks like the main risk is that pulling the wheel off pulls the clock spring "out" as well. If the clock spring rotation is disturbed during the procedure, is it a big deal as long as it's returned to the 12 o'clock before the new wheel goes back on?
- Seen a few posts where people have found that they need a wheel alignment after replacing the wheel, despite making sure it was dead straight beforehand. Is this more of a risk with aftermarket wheels possibly having their locating splines machines slight differently? I'm hoping as I'm swapping for an OEM wheel I won't have the same problem.
Any advice or pointers appreciated.
