GR Yaris Spherical bushes worth it?

Rhys_E

Rhys_E

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Hi,

I'm taking my car in for it's first service in a couple of weeks. I'm thinking of fitting some spherical front lower arm rear bush set along with some front lower arm front pillow ball bushings and rear trailing arm pillow ball bush set.

My question is for those that have fitted these, what are the pros and cons? Is there a noticeable improvement in handling and steering feel?

My car is used as a weekend toy so not a daily driver. I drive on mostly uneven, poor Welsh B roads so would like to know if it's a modification worth doing or does the car become too harsh to drive?

Any advice or feedback would be much appreciated!

Thanks

Rhys
 
banzai2 said:
I have Wiborg front wishbones and would recommend them. No noticeable increase in noise/harshness.
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Do they offer a noticeable improvement over standard on B roads?

I’m looking at getting the hardrace spherical bushes for the front control arm.
 
Hardrace bearings will not optimise your geometry unlike the wiborgs. The wiborgs reduce turn in understeer tho I doubt that is a problem on british b roads. They also give a larger range of neg camber than the std arms. Wiborgs also come with spherical rod ends. Suggest that u look at respective costs and benefits for both.
 
banzai2 said:
Hardrace bearings will not optimise your geometry unlike the wiborgs. The wiborgs reduce turn in understeer tho I doubt that is a problem on british b roads. They also give a larger range of neg camber than the std arms. Wiborgs also come with spherical rod ends. Suggest that u look at respective costs and benefits for both.
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Thanks Banzai2.
I’ll have a look into both.
 
banzai2 said:
Hardrace bearings will not optimise your geometry unlike the wiborgs. The wiborgs reduce turn in understeer tho I doubt that is a problem on british b roads. They also give a larger range of neg camber than the std arms. Wiborgs also come with spherical rod ends. Suggest that u look at respective costs and benefits for both.
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Are the spherical bearings in the Wiborg arms "sealed"?
 
Rhys_E said:
The hardrace ones are sealed. Does this help with longevity?
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Definitely. Unless they are sealed I would not use them. They sit low to the ground and will pick-up all the crap, wear will be a serious issue. If you drive your GRY on salted roads I would not change to spherical bushings. The salt will find its way-in anyway. IMO.
 
Sekred said:
Definitely. Unless they are sealed I would not use them. They sit low to the ground and will pick-up all the crap, wear will be a serious issue. If you drive your GRY on salted roads I would not change to spherical bushings. The salt will find its way-in anyway. IMO.
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I don’t drive when there’s grit on the roads. The hardrace bearings do come with a 2 year guarantee so I’m hoping they are sealed well and quite durable.
 
Mine are 18 months in and absolutely fine. I do spray some grease on them every 3months. I would not recommend using the GR on winter roads if you want to keep it corrosion free as unless you underseal and rustproof it you will be unhappy with the result.
 
I’ve had Lanoguard applied to all of the underside.
I’m going to be doing this every year to keep on top of it.
I use the car occasionally in the rain and on wet roads, but will not be using it when there’s salt.
Hopefully this keeps it rust free!
Still undecided on the spherical bearings though as not sure if there’s enough of a benefit.

Thank you all for your replies and feedback with this.
 
banzai2 said:
I lanoguarded mine but a year later determined it was not a longterm economical solution
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What do you do now to keep the underside of the car and the Wiborg arms and bushes clean and free of rust if I may ask?
 
The lanoguard is ok on internal surfaces but is worn off quickly on external ones so needs constant re applying. I took mine to CPS near Paddock Wood where the existing corrosion was treated, surfaces were painted and undersealed and cavities injected. The underseal is much more sophisticated than the stuff used in the past so hopefully it is properly protected. I spray the wiborg joints with ACF 50 whenever I have the wheels off and they are already greased. I use ACF 50 around the engine compartment as that is also a rust area. I mean the black bits as most of the body painted areas seem ok.
 
Thanks. I used Lanoguard this summer but will look to do something similar to yourself next year to make sure the car’r properly protected.
I know there’s a company down in the South West that specialise in rust proofing and use dinitrol I believe on the chassis and inject all of the cavities. I can then use ACF50 when getting the car detailed to keep things greased and rust free.
 
Rhys_E said:
Thanks. I used Lanoguard this summer but will look to do something similar to yourself next year to make sure the car’r properly protected.
I know there’s a company down in the South West that specialise in rust proofing and use dinitrol I believe on the chassis and inject all of the cavities. I can then use ACF50 when getting the car detailed to keep things greased and rust free.
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Devon Undersealing did mine 3 years ago, he used to work for Torque GT, and has recently come up the motorway a bit to Cullompton area instead of newton abbot, doing a 3 year check up on mine in a couple of weeks https://devonundersealing.co.uk/
 
jash19 said:
Devon Undersealing did mine 3 years ago, he used to work for Torque GT, and has recently come up the motorway a bit to Cullompton area instead of newton abbot, doing a 3 year check up on mine in a couple of weeks https://devonundersealing.co.uk/
Click to expand...
Thanks for the recommendation. I was looking at these and Southwest Rust proofing. They both get good reviews and offer similar packages.
 
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