GR Yaris Rear anti roll bar

Michael Knight said:
Watched rally footage from 1995 wrc Sweden - Mäkinen drove some stages without front roll bar but complained that on more grippy surface it was not that good. Then again, it is all dependable on whole system setup..
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I’ve stopped rallying but it was usual for us to disconnect the front arb if it was really slippery. If it’s hot tarmac and slicks you need it, on wets on a muddy lane better off without. It was also adjustable, pretty sure most crew do similar if it isn’t cabin adjustable like a wrc thing. As Lauren pointed out roll does not always equal bad.
 
Gordon Murray's one desing principle was to ditch rear anti roll bar as it destroys the independent suspension.
Bigger boys on track used to drive without rear anti roll bar even on track (with less sticky tires, tbh - narrow 205 semi's)).
Track vs. road is totally different use case so good to understand that if making any changes.
 
Michael Knight said:
would be nice to test various suspension settings (coil stiffness, ARB's) on simple slalom course and see the difference.
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Would be really good to test this stuff on track, independently. Unfortunately many of the videos I've seen are sponsored, so this muddies the water.
 
Manny said:
Would be really good to test this stuff on track, independently. Unfortunately many of the videos I've seen are sponsored, so this muddies the water.
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There isn’t going to be a one size fits all approach really. Lewis Hamilton on sticky slicks wants it to be as stiff as possible. It would probably be undriveable for the rest of us. It would be way too snappy. An average driver on a bumpy slippery surface needs some give to feel the grip. What are you trying to fix ? I’ve had sporty German cars that I’ve just had to spend money changing dampers as I’ve found them way oversprung and under damped. I think with the Yaris for road use it’s very very good. Admittedly I don’t see it as a natural track car.
 
Does anyone know what the thickness of the OEM front and rear bars are? I'm wondering if it's more effective to leave the stock bars and just change the tie rods for adjustable ones (Hardrace orWhiteline)?
 
I've been doing a fair bit of research on the ARB options and there are a few things to consider. I've had a set of Whiteline ARBs and drop links for over a year and never fitted them due to feedback on the subject.
  • Stiffer spring rates increase roll stiffness. Might sound obvious but in race cars ARBs are usually used to change the roll balance front to rear.
  • Having too much roll stiffness will affect traction in/out of corners
A few people I know have stated the GRY has too much rear bar for track use with some deciding to just disconnect or remove the rear bar altogether. A fellow Hillclimber fitted just the rear Whiteline ARB and was slower. He felt far less confident in the car and went back to stock shortly after.

It's also worth noting the difference between the Circuit Pack/Rallye vs Convenience Pack/Base ARB setups is the Circuit Pack uses a stiffer front ARB. Things pushes the roll stiffness more toward the front of the car. I know that Torsen LSDs and slightly different damper valving play a part too but, interesting all the same.

I'm running Litchfield Nitrons in a Base model and would like to try a Circuit Pack front ARB to see how feels but, I really like the front end grip and turn-in with my current geometry and setup. It's not a quick job to change the front ARB either, so maybe I'll develop other areas first?
 
I missed the above comment and am definitely leaning more to leaving the ARB's in place but changing the droplinks to adjustable ones. The stock droplinks are fixed, but if you lower the car (with springs or a different setup with coilovers) surely you're just twisting these stock droplinks, putting added stress on the ball joints?

I've convinced myself to go down the coilover route and also, isn't easier/more accurate to cornerweight the car with adjustable droplinks?
 
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