GR Yaris Rötheli Racing GR Yaris

need to relocate the kill switch to somewhere more convenient as we cant open boot with physical key ?

Also i do wander if you get better bhp ?
probably not on a new car.
 
How does the Car sound with a „Milltek“ Downpipe and a Milltek exhaust?
Much louder than OEM for sure. 😁

 
👍 Changed my driveline oils at 2000km,1000km hardly any load (running in engine) and 1000km curvetaking run-in :D

However, the logic for driveline oil is not the same for the filtered engine oil. There the first oil is important for running in the engine which is the first whole interval, as metallic particles that are allowed to pass the oil filter help honing the engine parts together*. People change at 1000km or so because of before in the old days (not so long ago), manufacturers actually used running-in oil often with added metal salts that must be changed at 500-1000km (whatever prescribed). Changing our first oil way earlier is similar to those guys saying, I'll change the actual run-in oil at 100km instead of 1000km, flushing out most of the beneficial metal particles.

Sometimes earlier isn't always necessarily better... And here keeping the manufacturer interval is beneficial, cheaper and better for the environment.

Of course if the engine oil is degraded for any other reasons, of course change it (track/race use). Other then that, we already have (enthusiast) short engine oil intervals compared to almost everthing else...


*I read this in automotive technical journal on the subject, unfortunately don't have access to that library anymore with changed jobs.
 
Test fitting the Arma Speed Intake for our GR Yaris. Done in 15min. 😁

7F6B9618-7BB7-499C-93AB-69F55AA16A1D.webp
330EB08C-6D32-41D7-AA8F-2AEEDAB42366.webp
D195D498-0BC3-4861-8C84-14EC69258BC5.webp
 
Did you say/think the diff oil that you drained in the video hadn't been changed before or was I mistaken ?

It should have been a red colour if OEM oil
 
Did you say/think the diff oil that you drained in the video hadn't been changed before or was I mistaken ?

It should have been a red colour if OEM oil
We changed it for the first time.
And even in mine, after 1’000km, it wasn‘t the slightest bit of red anymore…
 
We changed it for the first time.
And even in mine, after 1’000km, it wasn‘t the slightest bit of red anymore…
This was my first change 2358 kms



Diff oil on the right, hadn't/haven't tracked my car or given it too much of a hard time, the clutch might disagree with that statement ;)
 
was just researching this. Looks fantastic.

How does it sound and how does it feel in day to day driving
I agree. It does look fantastic.
Haven‘t tested the sound as we had other things to work on this weekend.
Unfortunately i will never be able to tell how it is in Day to Day driving, because it‘s not street legal here. 🤷🏻‍♂️

I will make a very quick testdrive when installed, than remove it and install it again on the dyno.

After that, we‘re going go decide which intake we run on the racetrack and which one i‘m gonna sell. 😁
 
Last edited:
👍 Changed my driveline oils at 2000km,1000km hardly any load (running in engine) and 1000km curvetaking run-in :D

However, the logic for driveline oil is not the same for the filtered engine oil. There the first oil is important for running in the engine which is the first whole interval, as metallic particles that are allowed to pass the oil filter help honing the engine parts together*. People change at 1000km or so because of before in the old days (not so long ago), manufacturers actually used running-in oil often with added metal salts that must be changed at 500-1000km (whatever prescribed). Changing our first oil way earlier is similar to those guys saying, I'll change the actual run-in oil at 100km instead of 1000km, flushing out most of the beneficial metal particles.

Sometimes earlier isn't always necessarily better... And here keeping the manufacturer interval is beneficial, cheaper and better for the environment.

Of course if the engine oil is degraded for any other reasons, of course change it (track/race use). Other then that, we already have (enthusiast) short engine oil intervals compared to almost everthing else...


*I read this in automotive technical journal on the subject, unfortunately don't have access to that library anymore with changed jobs.

usually any metal particles that get past the filter end up being embedded in the soft crank bearing materiel seen it many a time when someone has built an engine and not been clean enough...can even score the crank journals and cam lobe surfaces

passing bits of oil round the engine does nothing but shorten its life not to mention clog the filters on the vvt solenoids
 
usually any metal particles that get past the filter end up being embedded in the soft crank bearing materiel seen it many a time when someone has built an engine and not been clean enough...can even score the crank journals and cam lobe surfaces

passing bits of oil round the engine does nothing but shorten its life not to mention clog the filters on the vvt solenoids
If you can see them and you can see scoring, probably not the very fine microscopic parts I'm on about, rather sloppy machining and/or other contamination?
 
Unfortunately i will never be able to tell how it is in Day to Day driving, because it‘s not street legal here.
oh why isn't it street legal? it's enclosed no?
I will make a very quick testdrive when installed, than remove it and install it again on the dyno.
Look forward to it! not much information regarding the intake. emailed them and they only sent me a footage and dynograph of one of their customers and the customer had other mods going so don't think it's indicative of the performance
 
oh why isn't it street legal? it's enclosed no?

Look forward to it! not much information regarding the intake. emailed them and they only sent me a footage and dynograph of one of their customers and the customer had other mods going so don't think it's indicative of the performance
Switzerland has very strict rules about noise and changing parts…

I have a lot of supporting mods too.
And because every dyno is different, the overall max. performance isn‘t what i‘m interested in. I‘m interested in the difference in power between the different intakes.
 
This is how the CANchecked Display looks installed.
True 100% Plug&Play Solution and fits perfectly.

Have to check all the functions and everything over the coming Days/Weeks. Unfortunately, i haven‘t had the time to test it properly…

9CFF51BB-7FD3-406B-BF1C-53509EE8CCF0.webp
170BC6C3-5229-4D04-8428-BCAF8954DF89.webp
 
New Video about the installation and a first quick look at the CANchecked Data Display for our GR Yaris.



Looks very good in that vent housing

Looking forward to seeing more on this - I find some of the info on the central cluster a bit hard to see & miss the extra detail I've had on cars in the past

How do you configure the extra pages? Is any of it customisable & if so how?
 
Looks very good in that vent housing

Looking forward to seeing more on this - I find some of the info on the central cluster a bit hard to see & miss the extra detail I've had on cars in the past

How do you configure the extra pages? Is any of it customisable & if so how?
It is.
Haven‘t tried that yet, but it‘s quite good explained on their homepage.
There‘s a program where you can customize the design and what sensors you want to see on each page.

They explain it briefly in one of the videos i linked in the description.
 
Back
Top