GR Yaris GRWTF Build

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GRWTF

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Hi GR Fam!

Welcome to a rundown on my GRWTF build. I pick up the car just before Christmas (if all goes to plan). I come from a BMW background but wanted a change so I am really looking forward to this car and the build. It will be something I plan to keep for many years but also drive the hell out of as my weekend warrior, hill climb, and track day car.

2021 Black Australian Pov Pack! I could have picked up a 2nd hand Rallye but when I found this 13km dealer new example I knew it was the one. Also with the below build, the circuit pack really would have been a waste in my opinion.

I have parts coming in from all over the world so making a checklist as things come in is essential for my anxiety 😅
  • PPF full front and entire ceramic coat
  • Lithumax Restart 7
  • Custom Weds TC105X EJ Titan 18x9.5 ET40 with Yokohama AD08R 265/35R18
  • AP Racing Pro5000R BBK (depending on rotor width clearance due to front arms)
  • Endless pads
  • Wiborg Engineering Circuit geometry front arms
  • Custom Wiborg Engineering MCA RED Coilovers with pillow-ball top mounts
  • AIRTEC oil cooler
  • Rotheli Racing Titanium brake shims (Phil you legend!)
  • AP Carbon Arch Guards
  • TGR Performance shifter riser 2.0 (may go CAE if I am not content with just the risers)
  • TGR Performance mirror riser 3.0
  • Foresight short shifter
  • ATS Carbon LSD's front and rear
  • Xtreme Clutch HD Organic
  • Cusco power brace front member rear (the front brace doesn't fit with the undertray cooling unless you go with the GR brace kit $$$)
  • DNA Racing uni-ball rear support arm bushings
  • DNA Racing uni-ball rear swing arm bushings
  • Cusco strengthened pitch stopper
  • Cusco rear diff mount collar
  • Cusco front diff mount collar
  • Cusco rear power brace
  • Cusco diff cover
  • Cusco rear member collar
  • Cusco sports accelerator pedal
  • Spoon front and rear rigid collars
  • Gazoo racing undertray cooling
  • Gazoo racing brake ducts
  • Goodridge brake lines
  • Hard race rear upper camber arms
  • Hard race rear toe arms
  • PIAA Horns
  • Stern Performance rear seat delete
  • OMP HTE-R seat
  • N Sport S1 seat rail
Stage 2 list:
  • Kelford Cams and springs
  • Plazmaman Supercore FMIC with upgraded 2" high-temp piping OR Wagner Competition IC kit
  • GRP Engineering stainless 4.5" dump pipe and 100 cell cat into 3" straight mid-pipe (will test with factory cat-back first for noise)
  • All Type Fabrication intake
  • DTUK Stage 2 (unless a flash option is developed in 2022)

My philosophy is always chassis and suspension first, then power after. As you can see I won't be touching power until I think I need it. But driving a slower car fast is much more rewarding and engaging than a faster car slow, well for me at least 😅

I will be documenting the build here and via Instagram @GRWTF

Thank you for reading!
 
Last edited:
DrSetup said:
This is going to be one badass build. You'll love the MCA Reds on track. 🏁
Click to expand...
I hope so. I just drove my usual weekend roads today and the stock suspension handled the shitty B roads well only a couple of hard bumps. I am scared of the MCA Reds on these roads though, I will have to see how it goes :oops:😅
 
Awesome day for it 👌🏽
20211219_150814.webp
 
My initial thoughts after having taken it through my usual weekend roads for 3 days now:

Dunlops are rubbish and really show the open diffs but better and wider rubber will hide the open diffs a lot more, track work will show them though. "WRC" body roll is interesting but I prefer a more planted ride where I can feel more and predict more, turn-in needs improvement although it is mostly alignment related, the rear end is very playful under brakes but I am aggressive with my trail braking, and the brakes although good could do with more feel and modulation. The only unknown will be the ride on those B Roads with the time attack MCA setup, so will likely need to drop the spring rates when not doing any events on good tarmac. The seats are meh, comfortable yes but way too high and lack lateral support. Pedal placement is also interesting, I have large feet so I can still heel and toe but not as efficiently so I find combining the iMT with heel and toe quite useful (can't believe I am saying that).

The car in stock form is good for "sporty" driving up to 7/10ths, but there is a lot of room for improvement.
 
The next lot of parts have arrived!
Oil cooler, DNA rear bushings, Powerflex engine and transmission mount inserts and TMC Motorsport reinforced silicone hoses for all the coolant lines.
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She is all back together and the diffs have been run in, they were incredibly noisy at first but settled within the break-in and will still settle further over the next 500km where a 2nd fluid change will be done then changes every 3000km. This is the only downside to ATS Carbon LSDs, 3000km gear oil changes, but I am quite pedantic some would say (I feel it is pragmatic ;)).

What can I say so far, IT IS A VERY DIFFERENT CAR. NVH has increased quite a bit given the hard mountings EVERYWHERE and the single mass fly-wheel combined with the unique harmonics of a 3cyl, between 1600 rpm and 2300rpm the NVH is the worst but it can be mostly avoided as I have adapted my normal launch in first gear around 3500rpm (sounds harsh but actually feels spot-on normal now). The only other time NVH rears its head is a normal 90-degree turn/roundabout in 2nd gear (puts you around the 2200rpm mark), I am trying to get used to dropping it down to first for these which appears to sort it out.

I decided to adjust the spring rates from the circuit setup to have a street/off-season setup, new rates are now F: 8KG R: 14KG (appears excessive but I also have motorsport dampening and valving which suits the higher than orthodox rates). This set-up will take the occasional pothole without much issue (although you still know about it) where the serious circuit rates would not like them at all haha.

265 width tyres on 18x9.5 ET40 rub a touch (2-3mm) but will sort that out at the body shop (little bit of rolling and some Dremel grinding on the rear arch plastic will fix it). Anyone wanting to run 265 section R comp tyres ET40 is the limit, I would even suggest staying at ET45 if you can clear the strut with the camber you desire.

On to the POSITIVES (noting I haven't done a proper shake-down yet as the front goes in for a full respray and dent removal of stone chips then PPF).
Very quick (almost telepathic) to change direction and response to inputs is lighting but linear up to the 180 degrees (wheel turn) caster dynamics. There has been some geometry change (F: -3.5 camber, 0 toe; R: -2.7, -2mm). Going through a long chicane I didn't expect it to exit the transition as quickly as it did (I wasn't trying) but with how responsive it is now the front rocketed and steered where the tyres pointed through the transition and I almost took out the middle kerb :LOL: Understeer is non-existent once there is a bit of heat in the fronts, before all I got was howling understeer.

The combination of Wiborg Engineering Circuit Kit (control arms and custom MCA Red coilovers), ATS LSD's and 265 section R-comp tyres are complimenting of each other to the point where it would be hard to say where any single modification stands out as the main one. This can only speak for how much engineering and expertise has gone into the Wieborg Engineering kit as R-comp tyres vs stock Dunlops and ATS LSD's vs open diffs are clearly night and day, yet the kinematics of the control arms are compounding the magic even further. I HIGHLY recommend the Wiborg Engineering package for those who want a serious track day car or more. However, consider your wheel choices carefully as I veered off-spec slightly and I have very minor contact with the rim and arm at full lock (1-2mm difference in wheel drum design). Fredrik is incredibly helpful and generous with his time, so if you choose to invest in his product you are getting very good value and customer service.

Will have more to report after the body shop.
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As you can see with the pics below it needs a little guard work to clear perfectly.
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You can see the plastic tab in the picture below that needs to be ground back a bit.
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20220324_172258.jpg
 
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I can't edit the original post for some reason so here we go for STAGE 2:
  • Motec M142
  • Deatsch Werk 1100cc injectors
  • Nitto Pistons & Rods
  • H11 Head studs
  • H13 Main studs
  • HKS Headgasket
  • HKS spark plugs
  • Kelford 'A' Cams and springs
  • Supertech Iconnel & Black nitride valves
  • GCS bronze valve guides
  • GCS valve stem seals
  • Lamspeed valve locks
  • Lamspeed sump baffles
  • Rotheli Racing oil pan
  • Denstoj Rocker Retainer kit
  • Weldspeed intake plenum
  • Airtec Stage 3 Oil cooler + Auxillary radiator + turbo radiator
  • Wagner Competition IC kit
  • Garage Whiffbitz Catless dump pipe w/ heat shielding + 3-inch back
  • GCG28R Turbo + Funk Motorsport turbo blanket
Aiming for 300 wheel KW / 400 wheel HP on pump 98, hence all the heat management and knock friendlier internals (no glass pistons for me thank you).
 
Last edited:
GRWTF said:
I can't edit the original post for some reason so here we go for STAGE 2:
  • Motec M142
  • Deatsch Werk 1100cc injectors
  • Nitto Pistons & Rods
  • H11 Head studs
  • H13 Main studs
  • HKS Headgasket
  • HKS spark plugs
  • Kelford 'A' Cams and springs
  • Supertech Iconnel & Black nitride valves
  • GCS bronze valve guides
  • GCS valve stem seals
  • Lamspeed valve locks
  • Lamspeed sump baffles
  • Rotheli Racing oil pan
  • Denstoj Rocker Retainer kit
  • Weldspeed intake plenum
  • Airtec Stage 3 Oil cooler + Auxillary radiator + turbo radiator
  • Wagner Competition IC kit
  • Garage Whiffbitz Catless dump pipe w/ heat shielding + 3-inch back
  • GCG28R Turbo + Funk Motorsport turbo blanket
Aiming for 300 wheel KW / 400 wheel HP on pump 98, hence all the heat management and knock friendlier internals (no glass pistons for me thank you).
Click to expand...
Glass pistons! are we really all that Fu@@ed ! Nice build list though..... wow.
 
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