GR Yaris GR Yaris at racetrack

DeanoC said:
My car has basically only done track days and driving to track days. 11k miles of it. Most of the UK ones, 5x nurburgring, 2 X spa.

I learned a few things, some address comments above.

1. It's a mega arrive and drive track car. It's why you see so many.

2) small geo changes make a big difference. It really needs a degree extra camber front and rear and some front toe out will help the turn in.

3) oil temps. You can actually run a bit of ducting from the lower blanking plate to the oil cooler. I run in mid 20.C days and it only gets to 113 max now. A dedicated oil cooler is not great if the oil is not hot.

View attachment 6008

View attachment 6009

4) suspension is great for everything but long fast corners or the ring with the camber and humps. I literally bottom out the suspension through blanchimont at spa which is seriously unnerving when you take a bit much curb! I run BC coilovers and they are perfect. Not too stiff, get a bit lower to the ground and you can cornerweight it.

View attachment 6007

View attachment 6014

View attachment 6015
5) brakes. As mentioned totally standard works well. Obviously stick good fluid in and flush 100ml out of the caliper after each track day. OEM pads are fine for most, will do 2 or 3 days and cost 70 quid. I've tried most pads I reckon and I find myself sticking with the @EBC Brakes RP1s. They are like OEM +. More bite, better modulation, deal with temps totally fine, don't make excessive heat, last easily 3x longer than OEM (which makes them great value) and bonus points for not being dusty or noisy.

View attachment 5999

View attachment 6011

6) seats and stuff, absolutely. If you do it often or drive it near 10/10ths then seats, harness and Hans is a bit of a no brainer if you or anyone around you values your life. @SW Motorsports do a really good value cage and nice seat delete that again keeps it OEM+ along with all the seat mounting hardware.

View attachment 5997

View attachment 5998

7) people say about the diffs overheating. I find this is only the case on standard tyres. I run 255/35 on track and never once had it. Heat wrapping the bits near the box and diff can't hurt.

View attachment 6012

8) temps generally. It gets hot! Remove your engine cover, open the bonnet after sessions, buy the cooling undertray, run water wetter and slightly over fill it, intercooler sprayer makes a big difference on hot days.

View attachment 6004

9) Tyres. Mps4s are a lovely road tyre but will go off with heat on track and have a soft sidewall. Goodyear PSS are much better suited to track work and will last twice as long and not turn blue and lose all their grip. Nankang offer decent performance for a good price in their nsr2 and ar1 ranges depending on what you're after. You can work out pressures by looking at the rollover marks.

View attachment 6002

View attachment 5995

10) take the time to learn how to get the most from it. It doesn't drive like a rwd or fwd on track, you find yourself doing a lot of your work mid corner playing with the throttle and trail braking to get the torque moving about. Love it!

View attachment 5992

View attachment 6010

Here's me at the Nurburgring a couple of days ago.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the positive words!
 
Just did my first shakedown/track day in the GR Yaris Rallye... anyone else had shuddering through the drivetrain?
If anyone knows what's goin on here please let me know. I haven't heard this in anyone else's track videos:


It's like the AWD system is struggling to get the power down. Usually mid corner or on exit. Amazing car though, it was a super sprint and got 2nd outright, beaten only by a heavily modified supercharged S2000 that was 5sec clear of the field (61secs vs my 66.5) That was completely stock, on stock tyres.

+1 for oil cooler (with thermostat) I ran 10 laps at maximum attack for 5 sessions. Oil temps were fine all day.
Stock brakes held up well but got REALLY hot.
 
Can't see the steering wheel, but it sounds like heavy understeer in combination with activated traction control (trying to keep your car on track), transmission in 60/40. If correct this behavior has to be expected and doesn't harm your car.

Bye for now Fred
 
AP756 said:
Can't see the steering wheel, but it sounds like heavy understeer in combination with activated traction control (trying to keep your car on track), transmission in 60/40. If correct this behavior has to be expected and doesn't harm your car.

Bye for now Fred
Click to expand...
Cheers Fred, I was thinking it might be TC related, but it was in track mode (50/50) with TC off. I should have played around with the drive modes more but was trying to dial in tyre pressures and keep everything else consistent. I did change the rear diff oil before the day and it had a lot of silver sludge in there (1,300km) but that seems normal too from what I've seen. Funny how Toyota say just leave it 'til first major service!
 
Michael Knight said:
weird sound - from the tires scrubbing the fenders? I get zero noises from the driveline, only from the tires if driven properly
Click to expand...
I'll have a good look underneath and suss that out. Also heard the exhaust can come loose if driven hard
 
Rallyboy said:
Cheers Fred, I was thinking it might be TC related, but it was in track mode (50/50) with TC off. I should have played around with the drive modes more but was trying to dial in tyre pressures and keep everything else consistent. I did change the rear diff oil before the day and it had a lot of silver sludge in there (1,300km) but that seems normal too from what I've seen. Funny how Toyota say just leave it 'til first major service!
Click to expand...
Watched the video again. It's definitiv "the sound of understeer". You're too fast into the corner. Try to enter at lower speed and then accelerate just before apex and you won't hear that rattling (and you'll be faster ;)).

Bye for now Fred
 
Rallyboy said:
Cheers Fred, I was thinking it might be TC related, but it was in track mode (50/50) with TC off. I should have played around with the drive modes more but was trying to dial in tyre pressures and keep everything else consistent. I did change the rear diff oil before the day and it had a lot of silver sludge in there (1,300km) but that seems normal too from what I've seen. Funny how Toyota say just leave it 'til first major service!
Click to expand...
TC fully off? Expert mode still has TC on.
 
Andy R said:
TC fully off? Expert mode still has TC on.
Click to expand...
Thanks yes I've just learned from another thread about the "long press" and AWD Test Mode, whatever that is... And here I was thinking when you press the TC off button it would turn the TC off 🤪
 
Opinions on road/track pads, have found following as recommended
- EBC RP1
- Endless MX72
- Ferodo 2500 (have used these before 10 years ago, worked well in track focused street driving, also in racing for a light car).

EBC and Endless seem to tolarate more heat according specs?
 
Yes maybe, some guys from trackdayforum said positive thing about the n39s. Thats why i noted it for me in my personal list for a possible next brake pad .
Some guy wrote the n39s wont be noisy, will hold for long time and works in a nice temperature area.
 
KimmE_GR said:
Yes maybe, some guys from trackdayforum said positive thing about the n39s. Thats why i noted it for me in my personal list for a possible next brake pad .
Some guy wrote the n39s wont be noisy, will hold for long time and works in a nice temperature area.
Click to expand...
Had missed the N39S, should research it.
Questions like:
- How is disk wear (MX72 is kind on cold disks)
- Noise (answered above?)
- Dusting much?
- Does it contain copper (I think MX72 does, downside)
 
I’ve had the car for 2 months and so far I only managed to do 1 trackday (probably won’t do more until summer is over, weather is too hot).

It is pretty capable in stock form, but it definitely needs camber and a decent brake fluid. I got it aligned before the trackday and I’m at -2.5º in the front with more aggressive toe all around. I still find the car to be pretty neutral for my taste, but it is effective. Around -3º front camber should be spot on I reckon.

Stock pads are great for its price and IMO the braking performance is what stud out the most. I’ll test CSG spec pads next and proper brake fluid.

Compared to my GT86 (with CSG brembos, Greddy oil cooler, Direzzas, PMU racing pads, JRZ RS Pro 3’s and Raeder Motorsport setup for the ring) is much faster in a straight line and it has better traction (obviously), but loses in corner speed and overall feel. Suspension is clearly not made to excel on track and that‘s a big difference, but as a stock car it is very nice.
Even though I was still learning the car (I had it for 2 weeks at this point) on completely overheated stock PS4S and with a lot of traffic I was getting similar laptimes to what I can get in the 86, but the AIM Solo data showed it could go a couple of seconds faster if you take the best sector times. I’m hoping to take both cars to the track next time to get a proper comparison with the AIM telemetry, should be interesting to see.
BTW while driving it felt like tyres where being punished really hard, so I was surprised to see them in pretty good shape afterwards. The PS4S is not optimal for track but it does the job as long as you don’t push for more than 1-2 laps.

Oil temperature did get too hot too quickly, I didn’t like that but I’m working on a solution.

Next month I’m going to the Nürburgring and should be good there, it will definitely be faster than the 86 and should easily go under 8 minutes.


 
First trackday yesterday at Knockhill in my GR finally!

Car is pretty much stock
miltec OPF delete
Forge motorsport shortened linkage
Torque mount
All interior out except 2 front seats (I ran out of time to fit the buckets and harnesses)
Goodridge braided hoses & Motul 660 fluid

I ran Scrubbed RK7 Pirelli rally tarmac tyres absolute bitch when they’re cold but incredible when they’re at peak operating temp.

Started the day at 28 psi cold but they were hitting wild pressures within a few laps so dropped down to 20 cold (29 hot) and managed a 58.7 with a consistent 1:00s 8 laps in a row before hand.

I wanted to get a 58 and got bored after and started throwing it about.

Rally tyres have a better sidewalk for more aggressive driving IMO so I was launching it over the kerbs.

Day was over when my pal ruined his car but I escaped with a track rod end to replace and some gravel rash on an oem wheel.

Reckon with a bit more mid range power there’s a low 57 round knockhill in this very capable wee car but my cajones are not what they used to be at Duffus and with the Ohlins plan we’ve got who knows.

First time in the GR on slicks and definitely will be out next month somewhere.

No In car footage but there was a photographer there so I’m fairly sure there will be some images of me flying about on 2 wheels at Clark’s 👀

Has anyone bettered a 58 there?
 
Rallyboy said:
... I did change the rear diff oil before the day and it had a lot of silver sludge in there (1,300km) ... Funny how Toyota say just leave it 'til first major service!
Click to expand...
Yeah, "funny" is one way to put it.

In fact they say inspect every 1 year / 12k miles, replace every 4 years or 24k!

I bet 4 years or 24k miles is what everyone with a service plan will get.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top