GR86 GR Paint Inspection - !Important!

I'm considering Ceramic coating my car (delivery expected next week). Was coated £750 for single stage polish + Gtechniq CS Ultra. Additional £150 for wheels and callipers and £50 for Glass. As per him additional Exo coating doesn't do much and wouldn't recommend, unless parked in a garage.

Thoughts from experienced folks please!

There are two things I am looking for from it: a) Enhance looks of the car with gloss and depth (it's Magnetite Grey), b) Keep it looking clean as I hate washing cars (guilty!).
 
That is a good price for a single stage polish and CS ultra. I wouldn't bother with the calipers.
 
It seems that there are plenty of people who will pick up their GR86 soon so I would like to revive this thread. Ideally do not let the dealership remove the protection films and handle it yourself, either by yourself personally or get it done by your trusted detailer.

A friend of mine just picked up his BRZ and the dealership totally messed up the paint.

I just don’t understand how the dealership let this happen to a brand new customer car? Are the employees really that clueless about about the car’s paint?

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What do you folks recommend for lubricant when using a clay bar?

Bought a clay bar today, some of the autoglym tar remover and a pot of the Meguiars Ultimate Paste Wax as it was recommended by a friend of mine.... £38 retail at Halfrauds for the wax but only £20 with my trade card... that's a result even if £20 is still quite a lot for polish IMHO ;-)
 
Bluemanc100 said:
What do you folks recommend for lubricant when using a clay bar?

Bought a clay bar today, some of the autoglym tar remover and a pot of the Meguiars Ultimate Paste Wax as it was recommended by a friend of mine.... £38 retail at Halfrauds for the wax but only £20 with my trade card... that's a result even if £20 is still quite a lot for polish IMHO ;-)
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I haven't used a clay bar for a long time, but when I did I used to buy the Meguiar's clay kit, which came with a bottle of quick detailer (I think it was called) for that purpose.
 
Bluemanc100 said:
What do you folks recommend for lubricant when using a clay bar?

Bought a clay bar today, some of the autoglym tar remover and a pot of the Meguiars Ultimate Paste Wax as it was recommended by a friend of mine.... £38 retail at Halfrauds for the wax but only £20 with my trade card... that's a result even if £20 is still quite a lot for polish IMHO ;-)
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Quick detailer would work, if you have any rinseless wash that works well - you could even use diluted shampoo (just don't let any of it dry out) - clay can cause marring to the paintwork - it's often used as part of a decon before a full polish - just be careful - the ultimate paste wax doesn't have any 'cut' to it to remove marring (I don't think, I've not used it personally) - perhaps try it and your technique on a bit of paintwork you can't see before you commit fully??

All the above is only opinion and trying to be helpoful, not meant as critique of either ability or products.
 
As others have said, the likes of QD can be used as a lubricant but make sure you use plenty of it. There's a guy on Youtube that I follow 'Epic Automotive Detailing' - he has a video on using a Clay Bar HERE
 
Bluemanc100 said:
What do you folks recommend for lubricant when using a clay bar?

Bought a clay bar today, some of the autoglym tar remover and a pot of the Meguiars Ultimate Paste Wax as it was recommended by a friend of mine.... £38 retail at Halfrauds for the wax but only £20 with my trade card... that's a result even if £20 is still quite a lot for polish IMHO ;-)
Click to expand...
I would not recommend using a clay bar if you're not intending on polishing the paint between the clay barring and waxing. It will cause micro-marring otherwise, especially if you're not experienced with using one. The Meg's Ultimate Paste Wax you have linked is just a wax, it does not have any polishing qualities.

There are other, less intrusive methods of decontaminating the paint. Shampoo diluted with some strong APC followed by an iron fallout remover might be the way to go if you want to strip down any significant surface contaminants before waxing.

With regards to the tar remover, I would only recommend using it on very stubborn contaminants like tar, glue or caked on bugs or tree sap after a paint decon and wash. It's a fairly strong chemical and you definitely should avoid it coming into contact with any plastic parts of the car, or your skin. And don't use it indoors, as most have a very strong scent and are bad for your repiratory system.
 
Cholmondeley-Biscuitt said:
As others have said, the likes of QD can be used as a lubricant but make sure you use plenty of it. There's a guy on Youtube that I follow 'Epic Automotive Detailing' - he has a video on using a Clay Bar HERE
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Started watching his videos recently, some useful tips
 
Laverda said:
Quick detailer would work, if you have any rinseless wash that works well - you could even use diluted shampoo (just don't let any of it dry out) - clay can cause marring to the paintwork - it's often used as part of a decon before a full polish - just be careful - the ultimate paste wax doesn't have any 'cut' to it to remove marring (I don't think, I've not used it personally) - perhaps try it and your technique on a bit of paintwork you can't see before you commit fully??

All the above is only opinion and trying to be helpoful, not meant as critique of either ability or products.
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I’ll try the clay bar and the wax on the ePace before I advertise it.. I’ve got some Autoglym polish to apply before the wax if I need it
 
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beorg said:
I would not recommend using a clay bar if you're not intending on polishing the paint between the clay barring and waxing. It will cause micro-marring otherwise, especially if you're not experienced with using one. The Meg's Ultimate Paste Wax you have linked is just a wax, it does not have any polishing qualities.

There are other, less intrusive methods of decontaminating the paint. Shampoo diluted with some strong APC followed by an iron fallout remover might be the way to go if you want to strip down any significant surface contaminants before waxing.

With regards to the tar remover, I would only recommend using it on very stubborn contaminants like tar, glue or caked on bugs or tree sap after a paint decon and wash. It's a fairly strong chemical and you definitely should avoid it coming into contact with any plastic parts of the car, or your skin. And don't use it indoors, as most have a very strong scent and are bad for your repiratory system.
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Hmmm I might just look for a detailer locally to sort the cad out once it’s here.. I’ll use the clay bar on the current car but may return the wax .. Thanks for the tips.. Thanks to the others who took the time to reply too 👍🏻🍻
 
beorg said:
I would not recommend using a clay bar if you're not intending on polishing the paint between the clay barring and waxing. It will cause micro-marring otherwise, especially if you're not experienced with using one. The Meg's Ultimate Paste Wax you have linked is just a wax, it does not have any polishing qualities.

There are other, less intrusive methods of decontaminating the paint. Shampoo diluted with some strong APC followed by an iron fallout remover might be the way to go if you want to strip down any significant surface contaminants before waxing.

With regards to the tar remover, I would only recommend using it on very stubborn contaminants like tar, glue or caked on bugs or tree sap after a paint decon and wash. It's a fairly strong chemical and you definitely should avoid it coming into contact with any plastic parts of the car, or your skin. And don't use it indoors, as most have a very strong scent and are bad for your repiratory system.
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I thought I’d read that the tar remover was the right product for removing adhesive remnants from the white film that the car has fitted when it’s in transit.. To be honest I’d probably have let the dealer clean the car before I collected it but reading the forum put me off a little

I’ll check out detailers near me but hadn’t planned to go down the PPF and Ceramic route..
 
Bluemanc100 said:
I’ll check out detailers near me but hadn’t planned to go down the PPF and Ceramic route..
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You don’t have to have it coated. A lot of decent detailers will offer a ‘New Car Detail’ (or similar named) that will just involve a thorough decontamination, 3 bucket contactless wash, paint correction (stage 1 machine polish) and finish with a wax and/or hydrophobic spray. These tend to be several hundred pounds cheaper than Ceramic Coating.
 
I wouldn't bother with a clay bar, it's carries risk from marring and seems pointless on a new car. There are plenty of products out there that will dislodge anything that has built up, i.e tar and iron fallout remover, panel wipes, bug and tree sap remover etc.
 
If it's only a little bit you need to clay - or only light contamination then a clay mitt can be good. Just use it with your normal wash shampoo for a tiny bit of extra bite when washing as normal with your choice of Noddle mitt / osha / wool pad etc .

When I have to park under a particular tree at home and the wind is from the east, it can deposit some sap type sticky bits. The clay mitt gets them off in a flash leaving a silky smooth finish.

Luckily, as it's fully self healing PPF'd I haven't got to worry about marring. ;)
 
Keep clay well away from it. Previous cars it was fine but not with this. Luckily it was only the bottom of the sill but could see marring, even though I soaked it well. Came out once corrected.
 
Cholmondeley-Biscuitt said:
You don’t have to have it coated. A lot of decent detailers will offer a ‘New Car Detail’ (or similar named) that will just involve a thorough decontamination, 3 bucket contactless wash, paint correction (stage 1 machine polish) and finish with a wax and/or hydrophobic spray. These tend to be several hundred pounds cheaper than Ceramic Coating.
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A local detailer has quoted £450 … I’ll invest in the foam Lance and products for that price and do it myself.. How hard can it be 🙄😋
 
Bluemanc100 said:
A local detailer has quoted £450 … I’ll invest in the foam Lance and products for that price and do it myself.. How hard can it be 🙄😋
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450? What does the include? That's an absolute bargain.
 
ZN8 said:
450? What does the include? That's an absolute bargain.
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“It would be £450 to decontaminate, single stage machine polish and apply the appropriate exterior/interior protections.

That would be 2 coats of sealant to the bodywork, front/rear glass sealed, wheel faces coated with sealant and I usually throw in interior protections with any package of this type (so a leather sealant/mat sealant etc).”
 
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