GR Yaris DNA camber/caster top mounts worth it?

Rhys_E

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Hi,

I’m thinking of fitting some DNA top mounts to my GR Yaris to get more caster for greater steering feel.
I’d like to find out from people who’ve done this if it’s worth it? Is the steering feel improved?
The main thing I’m worried about is the standard top mounts are rubber and these are solid, spherical items so not sure if the vibration and noise would be too much?
The car is used occasionally and only for fast road use on undulating, uneven B roads.

Many thanks

Rhys
 
Current mods include pillow ball control arm bushes for greater steering feel, aluminium gear bushes for more precise shifting, Akrapovic exhaust, ITG black edition air intake, remap done by Richard Bulmer who was managing director of Tracktive Solutions and ex Toyota Europe WRC.

I’m just wandering if adding more caster by fitting the DNA top mounts would be worth it? I’m just a bit worried if the noise and vibrations during fast road driving might be too much?

Anyone driven a car with solid, spherical top mounts have any feedback?
 
I had some DNA topmounts installed a couple of months ago along with the full stock Circuit Pack suspension. No extra noises or harshness at all. Wish I had installed it sooner. I’m running some positive caster but with the DNA top mounts, it’s a case of sacrificing camber for caster +/-
 
I had some DNA topmounts installed a couple of months ago along with the full stock Circuit Pack suspension. No extra noises or harshness at all. Wish I had installed it sooner. I’m running some positive caster but with the DNA top mounts, it’s a case of sacrificing camber for caster +/-
Thanks! I’m happy with the camber on the car which is just under 2 degrees so some extra caster would be welcome!
 
I am running Cusco pillow top mounts. Definitely tightens the front up. Didn't notice any increase in NVH.
 
Thanks! I’m happy with the camber on the car which is just under 2 degrees so some extra caster would be welcome!
To clarify the best I can, the DNA top mount damper rod hole is offset from centre. The mounts are rotated through 180 degrees in total to achieve either positive or negative caster (along with negative camber).
Camber is affected through doing this.

If you had full positive caster, you would end up with no additional camber from stock.

On the other hand, If you went for maximum negative camber, you wouldn’t gain any difference in caster.

As you are at -2 degrees (pretty much stock setting), it will work well for you. You could have maximum possible positive caster without affecting your -2 degrees of camber.

I’m not sure what the maximum positive caster can be achieved by using these mounts but I think they will give you the adjustment you desire.

No additional NVH, it just eradicates the slop/vagueness from the original rubber mounts. It feels more precise by making the springs & shocks do all the work.

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This is -2.9 degrees of camber with unknown positive caster.
 
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To clarify the best I can, the DNA top mount damper rod hole is offset from centre. The mounts are rotated through 180 degrees in total to achieve either positive or negative caster (along with negative camber).
Camber is affected through doing this.

If you had full positive caster, you would end up with no additional camber from stock.

On the other hand, If you went for maximum negative camber, you wouldn’t gain any difference in caster.

As you are at -2 degrees (pretty much stock setting), it will work well for you. You could have maximum possible positive caster without affecting your -2 degrees of camber.

I’m not sure what the maximum positive caster can be achieved by using these mounts but I think they will give you the adjustment you desire.

No additional NVH, it just eradicates the slop/vagueness from the original rubber mounts. It feels more precise by making the springs & shocks do all the work.

View attachment 42211
This is -2.9 degrees of camber with unknown positive caster.
That’s great! Thanks for explaining all of this.
I do have front camber bolts fitted so could go for maximum positive caster and then dial in the negative camber using the bolts.
 
That’s great! Thanks for explaining all of this.
I do have front camber bolts fitted so could go for maximum positive caster and then dial in the negative camber using the bolts.
If you’ve already installed camber bolts, it’s also worth considering the caster bushes that Powerflex & Whiteline sell (AKA anti-lift kits). It would be a more cost effective option if you’re keeping the camber bolts.

I think you can achieve around +0.5° of static caster but there’s a lot more info on this here on the forum.

I’d imagine it would be quite awkward for even a seasoned geometry specialist trying to dial in settings using a combination of the DNA top mounts & camber bolts.

Personally, I’d toss the camber bolts onto the classifieds section & fit the DNA units.
 
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