GR Yaris Caster through anti-lift kits

Spirited

Totally Hooked
Jan 23, 2022
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If you have actually had an anti-lift kit of the Front Wishbone Rear Bush kind (eg Whiteline, Powerflex or other) installed, what's the maximum caster you could get?

I'm aware of the claims by Whiteline and Powerflex, but I'm looking for real life feedback on the max caster that can be added, eg 0.5 or 1 degree.

Also, was there a difference between the max caster or max added caster you could achieve between wheels, ie more caster for the left wheel than the right one or vice versa?
 
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Are we talking about the same word which means caster ? Why would you like to have different caster angles left an right ?
If doing oval racing it could be needed but for normal driving not. Maybe it was ment that if setup is not 100% correct between each side, what is the possible difference between sides? Maybe few minutes off it is not that dangerous.
 
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Slight misunderstanding.

I don't want different caster angles left and right.

I just wanted to know if the GRY allows for more caster to be achieved on one side, left or right.

The reason I ask is because, based on insights I'm getting, while some anti-lift kits allow for up to 1º caster to be added in theory, in practice this could only be achieved on one side (left or right), but not both. As a result, users settled for only circa 0.5º added caster, as this was the max they could achieve on one of the two sides and wanted to keep caster the same across left and right.
 
Slight misunderstanding.

I don't want different caster angles left and right.

I just wanted to know if the GRY allows for more caster to be achieved on one side, left or right.

The reason I ask is because, based on insights I'm getting, while some anti-lift kits allow for up to 1º caster to be added in theory, in practice this could only be achieved on one side (left or right), but not both. As a result, users settled for only circa 0.5º added caster, as this was the max they could achieve on one of the two sides and wanted to keep caster the same across left and right.
Maybe it depends on how subframe and control arms are assembled as there is always some play. Likely car dependant case.
 
Maybe it depends on how subframe and control arms are assembled as there is always some play. Likely car dependant case.

Possibly.

But then again, I'm not aware of such significant inconsistencies between different GRYs. Apart from a few issues specific to very early cars, Toyota seem to have offered us a product of standardised quality. Ie, even items they may have got slightly wrong (eg torque mount), these seem to be "wrong" on all GRYs.

Hence, I'm after real life feedback from users who have installed such anti-lift kits. Were you able to add circa 1º of caster (without using top mounts for this). If yes, which kit did you use (and if in England, which fitter, please?).
 
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Not sure what were the initial values for caster, but after Whiteline anti lift it was around -5°50'. Take note it was installed in Toyota, perhaps you can get different results from race shop. With top mounts -7°.
 
If you have actually had an anti-lift kit of the Front Wishbone Rear Bush kind (eg Whiteline, Powerflex or other) installed, what's the maximum caster you could get?

I'm aware of the claims by Whiteline and Powerflex, but I'm looking for real life feedback on the max caster that can be added, eg 0.5 or 1 degree.

Also, was there a difference between the max caster or max added caster you could achieve between wheels, ie more caster for the left wheel than the right one or vice versa?
I don't know the numbers on caster before and after, it was set up by a professional race shop.

Under normal circumstances you would like to have a tad more caster (0,25 degree) on the right side if you drive on the right side, or you need to work the steeringwheel all the time just to keep your car on the tarmac.
 
Not sure what were the initial values for caster, but after Whiteline anti lift it was around -5°50'. Take note it was installed in Toyota, perhaps you can get different results from race shop. With top mounts -7°.

Haha, negative figures for caster? For some reason, I don't believe you. What's next; positive camber!? :p😊

For reference, my stock car/caster is circa 5°30'.

So, noting the max added caster Toyota managed to get out of the Whitelines. Thanks!
 
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Haha, negative figures for caster? For some reason, I don't believe you. What's next; positive camber!? :p😊

For reference, my stock car/caster is circa 5°30'.

So, noting the max added caster Toyota managed to get out of the Whitelines. Thanks!
My bad 🫣
I'd say you can expect at least 0.5 deg added to stock
 
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Powerflex sells two variants, but in their details there is no difference?
Race variant is harder / more NVH?

normal?

race

Wonder which approach is better. this anti lift kit or DNA upper strut mounts (they provide option for added caster too, actually even more than a mere bush).
Cost is more or less the same as bush install requires press.

DNA top mount
 
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Yes, blk is harder - more nvh. Not sure its an antilift tho, Whiteline has a "ring" which can be antilift or antidive, depending on where you place it, above or below bushing.
Arm is kinda thin and soft, maybe rather swap top mounts?
 
Powerflex sells two variants, but in their details there is no difference?
Race variant is harder / more NVH?

normal?

race

Wonder which approach is better. this anti lift kit or DNA upper strut mounts (they provide option for added caster too, actually even more than a mere bush).
Cost is more or less the same as bush install requires press.

DNA top mount
personally, I did not trust the nylon uniball kind of design from powerflex. for the stiffness and difference I guess MarkoS is right. the product descriptions and instructions from PF are mostly miserable. with their kit you are able to tweak the caster only. as MarkoS has noted, anti-lift or anti-dive change would be acheived with changing the "horizontal?" (looking from the side) geo of the control arm, which this bush kit does not offer. theoretically I think it would be possible though by pressing the bush not "centered", but shallower or deeper.

I went with the whiteline kit. as it is basically an indestructible PU puck and cheap + I had camber bolts installed. it replaces the rather soft (even though full) rubber stock bushing and adds 2 benefits to the front geo.

If I did not have the camber bolts already in, I would probably go with adjustable topmounts. for me it would be the next logical upgrade when going with wider track wheels.
 
personally, I did not trust the nylon uniball kind of design from powerflex. for the stiffness and difference I guess MarkoS is right. the product descriptions and instructions from PF are mostly miserable. with their kit you are able to tweak the caster only. as MarkoS has noted, anti-lift or anti-dive change would be acheived with changing the "horizontal?" (looking from the side) geo of the control arm, which this bush kit does not offer. theoretically I think it would be possible though by pressing the bush not "centered", but shallower or deeper.

I went with the whiteline kit. as it is basically an indestructible PU puck and cheap + I had camber bolts installed. it replaces the rather soft (even though full) rubber stock bushing and adds 2 benefits to the front geo.

If I did not have the camber bolts already in, I would probably go with adjustable topmounts. for me it would be the next logical upgrade when going with wider track wheels.
maybe the whiteline kit is more of an value there. Need to figure out what to do. slight improvement with front end would be good. on road its quite to my liking but on track front end is not the best.
 
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Powerflex sells two variants, but in their details there is no difference?
Race variant is harder / more NVH?

normal?

race

Wonder which approach is better. this anti lift kit or DNA upper strut mounts (they provide option for added caster too, actually even more than a mere bush).
Cost is more or less the same as bush install requires press.

DNA top mount
Yes, blk is harder - more nvh. Not sure its an antilift tho, Whiteline has a "ring" which can be antilift or antidive, depending on where you place it, above or below bushing.
Arm is kinda thin and soft, maybe rather swap top mounts?

Fair points, both. Is someone preparing his Black Friday shopping, @Michael Knight ? :)

I was wondering myself about the difference between PFF76-902G and PFF76-902GBLK. Powerflex have confirmed that these two are made to the same spec, with both using their 95A durometer material. So while Powerflex often offer two or more variants, with the Black one being indended for track use as @MarkoS mentions, in this case there are two code variants but just one product really.

@Michael Knight we seem to be going through the same thought process also with reference to anti-lift caster kit vs solid top mounts. My thoughts so far are:
  • Cost: I think that the DNA top mounts solution would be more expensive in my case. The parts are significantly more expensive to start with, both will also require alignment and I expect fitment for the caster kit to not cost much (based on 30 minutes labour stated on the Workshop Fitting tab on this Pumaspeed listing). It may be a different story if one is looking to get camber through the top mounts too, but I already have front camber bolts.
  • NVH: Based on feedback mainly by @MarkoS, I expect caster kits to introduce some NVH (also based on my view that Whiteline bushes tend to be on the harder side & the Powerflex material is also on the harder side at 95A). But I haven't heard from anyone that it's significant, let alone unbearable. However, with the DNA solid top mounts, I would expect more significant NVH. That's based on feedback by eg @DeanoC:
  • Understeer: I expect that, as I understand @azet mentions above, an anti-lift caster kit provides both anti-lift and added caster (& therefore dynamic camber) to contribute more towards eliminating understeer than solid top mounts (that would only give me added caster in that respect, as I see it).
All in all, if your aim is to eliminate understeer, solid top mounts might be an overkill offering only a partial solution, with these being more suited to the track and to solve issues that are almost exclusive to track use, ie failure of stock top mounts, major suspension component changes (not just geometry) requiring the feature of adjustability that the DNA top mounts bring, strut clearance when going for a lot of negative camber, etc.

A potential drawback of anti-lift caster kits is the limited caster these can add, ie max 0.5 degree. However, with caster too, there can be too much of a good thing, also as pointed out at 3:56 of:

Disadvantages of adding (lots of) caster (possible through the DNA top mounts but not through anti-lift caster kits) that I've seen mentioned include minor implications like suspension not engaging in certain circumstances (eg lower-speed bumps), as @MarkoS has posted, as well as giving the car such a hard time (when combined with higher grip tyres) that the power steering can't cope (giving the driver a scare mid-corner).

So, for road use, it might be that the added caster that anti-lift kits provide is enough. After all, I see adding caster as a bit controversial because experts with extensive modifications, like @Phil1291, haven't touched caster or, like @DrSetup, saw no benefit from it.

As to whether the Powerflex caster kit has anti-lift properties, some retailers who don't just copy-paste texts from Powerflex mention anti-lift, eg:
I should hopefully have clarity straight from Powerflex soon. I'd love it to offer anti-lift too, as I feel that Powerflex products are more refined than Whiteline ones.
 
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...

Disadvantages of adding (lots of) caster (possible through the DNA top mounts but not through anti-lift caster kits) that I've seen mentioned include minor implications like suspension not engaging in certain circumstances (eg lower speed bumbs), as @MarkoS has posted, as well as giving the car such a hard time (when combined with higher grip tyres) that the power steering can't cope (giving the driver a scare mid-corner).

...
with the whiteline bushes installed I ended after wheel alignment at appr. 6,2deg caster. I do not have the number before upgrade, but stock is somewhere 6 deg I think.
camber is set to -2,6deg. I did 2 trackdays after the change and I have 80% less understeer by gut feeling. as I am still on stock rubbers = for me it was until now the cheapest and most effective improvement in handling :D
the next most cost effective improvement for the front axle is a new wheelset with good trackday tires.
the rear axle was neglected by me, just added neg. camber by using camber bolts. boy the rubber bushings on the upper arm are soft ;)
 
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Yes, blk is harder - more nvh. Not sure its an antilift tho, Whiteline has a "ring" which can be antilift or antidive, depending on where you place it, above or below bushing.
Arm is kinda thin and soft, maybe rather swap top mounts?

The good news is I received a response from Powerflex. Their caster kit will give 5mm anti-lift as the offset at the top of the arm is 30.5mm vs 25.5mm on the original bush.

The bad news is I don't understand any of this 😊. So, I still wonder:
  • Does it really offer meaningful anti-lift?
  • Cost aside, which would be better, for anti-lift and overall, the Powerflex or the Whiteline kit?
  • Why, ie on what basis is any of the two better? Any pros & cons?
Can any knowledgable forumits advise, please? Especially those in the trade @HRNSHN-Racing , @Phil1291, @DrSetup ?

Thank you!