GR Yaris BROKEN Engine on GR Yaris after 120.000KM
- Thread starter DraPPer
- Start date
Yeah, maybe the biggest takeaway is don't let it go below max so check up regularly if you use the car anywhere near its performance potential. Down to min it's a whole 1l less (acc to the manual) or only ~3,3l oil in there, that's definitely not a good thing! Iirc people doing trackdays have gotten oil pressure warnings with oil only halfway and that's with the insensitive OEM ECU - proper starvation
. Others may confirm...- Thread starter
- #23
I meant oil cooler, not air
Michael Knight
Totally Hooked
Wagner adds 10hp or so, with their pipeset
Just in case you‘re afraid of oil pressure dropping…
- Thread starter
- #26
Just watched the video, what did you use to clean engine under eath beforre nstalling the baffle? Also, do you stil overfill oil after installing the baffle as precautionary measure or not ?
Cleaned it with Brake- and Adhesive Cleaner and a rubber disc to remove the rest of the sealant.
Yes, i will still overfill a tad, because i haven‘t seen any downside of that.
- Dec 6, 2021
- 159
- 401
Sorry but this is factually wrong. This particular engine had done 120k km yes but there are documented failures below 10k km also. You can't then use anecdotal evidence to say a problem doesn't exist because you aren't aware of the bigger picture, i'm the Chris referred to in the video and i've been doing a lot of research into failures with various tuners.
There's a lot of talk behind the scenes about what exactly is happening as a not insignificant number of engines are failing due to oil starvation and/or mega knock events. What happened in this instance could be either, given that he was at 260kmh on the Autobahn i'd be inclined to think it's more due to heat and friction at sustained high rpm than detonation but from here I can't diagnose anything, only give input. There would be no oil starvation due to lateral G's in this instance as he was driving in a straight line but that doesn't mean damage hadn't been done to the pistons, rings or block at some point in the past.
You said yourself you fill with 5L and don't see pressure drops - exactly. You overfilled which is what's been suggested as a workaround. I ran my car on track on Sport Contact 7's with the oil at the max level because I forgot to overfill and tripped the low EOP warning on the Syvecs on a right hand bend around 120kmh pulling 1.2G. This is absolutely something that can happen to a standard car and has been known about for a while.
I'm not trying to put the shits in anyone as it's fairly easy to work around either with an overfill or a more permanent solution like baffles or dry sump however I do think people need to be aware. Fensport originally thought it was down to semi slicks, they mapped my car when it first went onto Syvecs and I know Tom and Adrian fairly well, they were surprised to hear I tripped a low EOP warning on road tyres when bedding in brake pads but as time goes on more people are showing it's not exclusive to high hp track cars on semi slicks.
Cavitation, starvation, low pressure may well be present on other engines but that doesn't mean this particular design of engine doesn't have issues. Valve float happens in these engines and it can be terminal because of the design of this specific engine, other engines may experience valve float and never have any further issues. These engines also run relatively low oil pressure compared to many due to the oil sprayers flowing so much so it doesn't take a lot for pressure to drop. An engine running 5bar may not see issues if pressure drops to 2-3bar momentarily but these engines only run 3-4bar max. Dropping below 1bar is way too low.
For anyone reading it's nothing to panic about but if you're going to be tracking the car please just overfill. I regularly run 0.5L over max and I have no breather issues or low EOP warnings now.
Hi guys,
Just to add my anecdote here.
My engine broke yesterday, with baffled sump and overfilled just setting up the XShift sequential gearbox up shift strategy on syvecs. It broke piston one, first exhaust valve and dropped a hole on the block. So no oil starvation problems here.
After dismounting the engine we noted a 24mm iron wrist pin which seems to be heavier than the piston, so maybe this is too much inertia for the OEM rods. It looks like a elongation failure since my rod is broken completely straight (like if you cutted it), so maybe only adding forged rods it’s a solution here, but yeah you should open the engine.
My engine was a 413HP with hybrid turbo, kellford valve springs and cams, 7900RPM and a syvecs (and all supporting mods OFC). The data log when it broke show everything normal. Normal AFR, normal oil pressure, everything is ok. The car have been done 20.000km with this setup including some track days and some runs on the ring.
Now we are building a new engine at lamspeed to solve all this problems, they say that this engine has harmonics and this is the main culprit of the failure. So it’s supposed to be fixed with new forged and modified crank and engine.
Just to add my anecdote here.
My engine broke yesterday, with baffled sump and overfilled just setting up the XShift sequential gearbox up shift strategy on syvecs. It broke piston one, first exhaust valve and dropped a hole on the block. So no oil starvation problems here.
After dismounting the engine we noted a 24mm iron wrist pin which seems to be heavier than the piston, so maybe this is too much inertia for the OEM rods. It looks like a elongation failure since my rod is broken completely straight (like if you cutted it), so maybe only adding forged rods it’s a solution here, but yeah you should open the engine.
My engine was a 413HP with hybrid turbo, kellford valve springs and cams, 7900RPM and a syvecs (and all supporting mods OFC). The data log when it broke show everything normal. Normal AFR, normal oil pressure, everything is ok. The car have been done 20.000km with this setup including some track days and some runs on the ring.
Now we are building a new engine at lamspeed to solve all this problems, they say that this engine has harmonics and this is the main culprit of the failure. So it’s supposed to be fixed with new forged and modified crank and engine.
Interesting is, that most catastrophic engine failures i‘ve seen so far where with cars that significantly increased the rev limiter…
- Thread starter
- #31
And with significant increase in hp (>340). If ayone wants +40% power increase why not buy a car with that stock power and modify one ? The money spent and risk taken will always be greater than geting a car with more stock hp to begin with!
Because these Cars aren‘t the GR Yaris.
A Golf R, BMW M140, Mercedes A35 or whatever else is in that region might have more power but is otherwise not even close to the fun the GR is.
We have built now a couple of GR‘s with 350/380 and over 400hp.
Not a single blown engine so far.
That doesn‘t mean much, but still.
And if you‘ve ever driven a GR with 350hp, you‘ll wish these come from factory with that much power.
It‘s addictive.
And yes, it‘s a risk. So is life in general.
But one you can reduce if you take the right parts for the right power range and don‘t overstep.
Michael Knight
Totally Hooked
Maybe its good consideration to swap forged pistons and conrods if aiming higher hp/revs as added cost of hw is not really significant.
Id love the idea of high revving GR but now understand it is not the greatest idea with stock engine.
Id love the idea of high revving GR but now understand it is not the greatest idea with stock engine.
I don‘t even do it with my fully built engine.
Especially if you have a 7-speed sequential, there‘s absolutely no reason to raise the Rev limiter because i don‘t loose any time changing gears.
And that‘s the only reason you might wanna rise the limiter, because the super laggy big turbo you have, has such a small powerband, that you need to raise the limiter to not loose too much time when shifting into the next gear.
On my EVO, the only reason we started to increase the rev limiter was, because we changed the complete valvetrain and installed solid lifters.
As long as you‘re using hydraulic lifters i would highly recommend not lifting rev limit.
As long as you‘re driving the car on the road, stick to the OEM turbo and around 380hp/480Nm.
Because after 500Nm, engines and gearboxes start to die.
And OEM turbo is so much more fun on the road than an upgraded one.
After 400hp and 500Nm you‘ll need a fully built engine, bigger injectors, better clutch and it makes a lot of sense getting an aftermarket ECU like Syvecs or Motec.
So you‘re looking at an additional investment of an easy 15k, just for maybe 50hp.
- Thread starter
- #36
I get it (higher hp current offerings need also a lot of things to be fixed to make them trackable and certainly come significantly heavier than GRY) but unless you are competing in any form of race (rally, time attacks, etc) for the hobbyist racetrack visitor and using the car on the road, the 300-350 range of hp with a solid suspension setup is more than enough to punch above its size and give the necessary thrills and keep a higher peace of mindBecause these Cars aren‘t the GR Yaris.
A Golf R, BMW M140, Mercedes A35 or whatever else is in that region might have more power but is otherwise not even close to the fun the GR is.
We have built now a couple of GR‘s with 350/380 and over 400hp.
Not a single blown engine so far.
That doesn‘t mean much, but still.
And if you‘ve ever driven a GR with 350hp, you‘ll wish these come from factory with that much power.
It‘s addictive.
And yes, it‘s a risk. So is life in general.
But one you can reduce if you take the right parts for the right power range and don‘t overstep.
