GR Yaris Alignment, Camber and handling related talks

[Yohz78]

Yes you are right...1° 50'
My rear camber is already 1° 50' (Toyota fixed - no mods) and I would like to have the same front/rear camber.
I think it will be more balanced...

With 2.3° camber front you only have 0.4° delta between front and rear. This 0.4° delta help keep understeer under control and makes the car more balanced. Rallye car always have a bit more camber front then rear in tarmac set-up.

Honestly, just do what I did. The only thing is tyre wear on the inner edge of the tyre due to more camber but it is another topic. If you drive the car hard, I am not sure it will have the time to become an issue or be the limiting factor for tyre change. Depend on how you drive the car ...

It is really balanced mid corner with this camber. I would maybe have liked a bit more delta but you car adjustability is great and you can compensate with driving techniques easily.

I can't wait to change my toe set-up though. Car is really lazy with rear that closed ...

Anyway I think you can play with camber a bit even with toyota bolt. You can probably have almost no difference front/rear with the bolts I used.

 

[zoid]

@Yohz78
Thank you for your explanation!
I will try your settings using one dot bolt.
I hope the mechanic will manage to set rear camper -2
Moreover testing different alignment setups is an easy job....

 

[Yohz78]

@Yohz78
Thank you for your explanation!
I will try your settings using one dot bolt.
I hope the mechanic will manage to set rear camper -2
Moreover testing different alignment setups is an easy job....

Finally fixed the alignment. I already talked about it in member's car topic but I'll sum it up there.

Front : -2.0° 27 ' camber -0.0° 3' toe out
Rear : -2.0° 2' camber 0.0° 3 ' toe in

Car is lovely with this set up. Playfull but adjustable, you can do exactly what you want with it. On road, it's perfect to me. I wouldn't want more instability rear, wouldn't really be usefull. On corner entry front is sharp but it has no traimlining otherwise, Rear is easy to manage, stable during braking but can easily step up if you wish so with proper trail braking. If you keep a bit of brake during corner entry, the rear rotate exactly as you want.

Camber is great, you can play with under/over steer. A bit of brake/lift mid corner and the rear will rotate, a bit more throttle with more wheel angle and you'll understeer, to me it's the perfect balance for B-Road blasting. I can do exactly what I want with the car. Lots of confidence, adjustability and playfullness. The corner exit are insane now since the car rotate better on throttle and plow less.

I could use more camber, something like -3.0 front and -2.5° rear, as it may not be really enough for trackdays. But I'd rather be conservative as the car see quite some daily use.

As a result, really happy with this set-up. It really has changed the car a lot. Toyota OEM bolt + proper alignment + torque mount and I have a really good car for road use.

 

[Altocumulus]

Finally fixed the alignment. I already talked about it in member's car topic but I'll sum it up there.

Front : -2.0° 27 ' camber -0.0° 3' toe out
Rear : -2.0° 2' camber 0.0° 3 ' toe in

Car is lovely with this set up. Playfull but adjustable, you can do exactly what you want with it. On road, it's perfect to me. I wouldn't want more instability rear, wouldn't really be usefull. On corner entry front is sharp but it has no traimlining otherwise, Rear is easy to manage, stable during braking but can easily step up if you wish so with proper trail braking. If you keep a bit of brake during corner entry, the rear rotate exactly as you want.

Camber is great, you can play with under/over steer. A bit of brake/lift mid corner and the rear will rotate, a bit more throttle with more wheel angle and you'll understeer, to me it's the perfect balance for B-Road blasting. I can do exactly what I want with the car. Lots of confidence, adjustability and playfullness. The corner exit are insane now since the car rotate better on throttle and plow less.

I could use more camber, something like -3.0 front and -2.5° rear, as it may not be really enough for trackdays. But I'd rather be conservative as the car see quite some daily use.

As a result, really happy with this set-up. It really has changed the car a lot. Toyota OEM bolt + proper alignment + torque mount and I have a really good car for road use.

Getting a good alignment that suits the driver's needs really is a must on the GRY. It's the first thing I recommend to owners.

 

[Michael Knight]

Getting a good alignment that suits the driver's needs really is a must on the GRY. It's the first thing I recommend to owners.

definitely agree. yet its not that common to get it checked. but if you're into driving its easily worth the money.

 

[Yohz78]

It definitely made the car a lot better to me. Still OEM too with the bolt.

There's two thing I'd recommend to do straight away if buying a GRY. Torque mount and Alignment. Both of those made the car extremely good. Other mods are either specific to track use (cooling for instance, I reached 120°C on the road but I was blasting with 30° for 10min + continuously and 120° is still acceptable as the limit) or aesthetic/enjoyment (exhaust...).

 

[Altocumulus]

It definitely made the car a lot better to me. Still OEM too with the bolt.

There's two thing I'd recommend to do straight away if buying a GRY. Torque mount and Alignment. Both of those made the car extremely good. Other mods are either specific to track use (cooling for instance, I reached 120°C on the road but I was blasting with 30° for 10min + continuously and 120° is still acceptable as the limit) or aesthetic/enjoyment (exhaust...).

I agree.

If you fit super sticky tyres for the track, a harness to keep you in the stock seat is then needed (or a race seat).

 

[Orion]

Finally fixed the alignment. I already talked about it in member's car topic but I'll sum it up there.

Front : -2.0° 27 ' camber -0.0° 3' toe out
Rear : -2.0° 2' camber 0.0° 3 ' toe in

Car is lovely with this set up. Playfull but adjustable, you can do exactly what you want with it. On road, it's perfect to me. I wouldn't want more instability rear, wouldn't really be usefull. On corner entry front is sharp but it has no traimlining otherwise, Rear is easy to manage, stable during braking but can easily step up if you wish so with proper trail braking. If you keep a bit of brake during corner entry, the rear rotate exactly as you want.

Camber is great, you can play with under/over steer. A bit of brake/lift mid corner and the rear will rotate, a bit more throttle with more wheel angle and you'll understeer, to me it's the perfect balance for B-Road blasting. I can do exactly what I want with the car. Lots of confidence, adjustability and playfullness. The corner exit are insane now since the car rotate better on throttle and plow less.

I could use more camber, something like -3.0 front and -2.5° rear, as it may not be really enough for trackdays. But I'd rather be conservative as the car see quite some daily use.

As a result, really happy with this set-up. It really has changed the car a lot. Toyota OEM bolt + proper alignment + torque mount and I have a really good car for road use.

Great to hear such an improvement to your setup.

I am at -3.0/-2.5 camber and dailying my car (82000km on the clock), the only (for me quite manageable) downside is quicker inner shoulder wear, so I throw on new summer tires every 8-12000km (with a trackday or two and quite spirited driving). I would never go back to less camber given the awesome cornering grip...

 

[Orion]

I agree.

If you fit super sticky tyres for the track, a harness to keep you in the stock seat is then needed (or a race seat).

I would keep my stock seats but the lack of harness is a real pain even on stock sized 225/40 R18 Nankang CR-S tires (which are next level compared to Cup2 on my track /short, winding, technical/, btw)...
Do you perhaps know an easy to install (while keeping the stock seat belts) solution?

 

[GRgrampa]

You could have a look at the Schroth Rallie 3 system. It attaches to the existing seatbelt mountings so keeps the standard belt in place, but allows the benefits of a full harness when required. I've been using one for a couple of years now and although not cheap, is an ideal solution.

Schroth Rallye ASM 3 Point Bolt In Track Day / Road Harness Belt, Passenger Side | eBay UK

If you have the need to transport passengers (or cargo) in your backseat, it is possible to disconnect the tail strap (a feature only Schroth has) and use your normal 3-point harness. (System available on selected harnesses).

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Altocumulus]

I would keep my stock seats but the lack of harness is a real pain even on stock sized 225/40 R18 Nankang CR-S tires (which are next level compared to Cup2 on my track /short, winding, technical/, btw)...
Do you perhaps know an easy to install (while keeping the stock seat belts) solution?

I fitted Schroth Quickfit to my GRY.

More info here:

https://www.gr-yaris.co.uk/threads/multi-point-harness-with-original-seats.1891/

 

[Yohz78]

I fitted Schroth Quickfit to my GRY.

More info here:

https://www.gr-yaris.co.uk/threads/multi-point-harness-with-original-seats.1891/

View attachment 36588

It looks dope. They're tolerated for trackday I guess ? May seem like a stupid question but sometimes ... You never know !

 

[Altocumulus]

It looks dope. They're tolerated for trackday I guess ? May seem like a stupid question but sometimes ... You never know !

Yes I have used it on many track days. I don't use the harness on the road. It unplugs and back to standard in under one minute.

 

[micsub]

It definitely made the car a lot better to me. Still OEM too with the bolt.

There's two thing I'd recommend to do straight away if buying a GRY. Torque mount and Alignment. Both of those made the car extremely good. Other mods are either specific to track use (cooling for instance, I reached 120°C on the road but I was blasting with 30° for 10min + continuously and 120° is still acceptable as the limit) or aesthetic/enjoyment (exhaust...).

Even for B-Road blasting it's worth while to attend to all the extra cooling you can give this car, and remain road legal in France and OE for the Warranty.

 

[Yohz78]

Even for B-Road blasting it's worth while to attend to all the extra cooling you can give this car, and remain road legal in France and OE for the Warranty.

We're a bit off topic here but I was thinking about adding a air duct that would bring air from the front of the car to the air/oil exchanger as some member did here. It seems to be already a great upgrade to cooling. Not sure if you were refering to other cooling solution that would still be road legal / OE ?

 

[micsub]

We're a bit off topic here but I was thinking about adding a air duct that would bring air from the front of the car to the air/oil exchanger as some member did here. It seems to be already a great upgrade to cooling. Not sure if you were refering to other cooling solution that would still be road legal / OE ?

Yes, I did add a hose from the right side of the bumper feeding cold air to the coolant / oil heat exchanger. This requires removing the bumper for easier access. It appears that in very hot weather like we had last week in France the gain is "non-negligeable", about 5-10°C less on the oil temperature remaining just under / around 100°C. Difficult to say how many degrees exactly by "reading" the OEM Oil temperature gauge...



Maybe this gain is the result of an association to the optional TRD vented engine (plug & play) undercover I installed. ? This one feeds cold air directly to the gearbox and transfer box. Some stray air may also wander across the oil cooler ?

TRD Engine Cooling Under Cover Guard Toyota GR Yaris - 51410-52120

This cover fits underneath the engine of your GR Yaris and effectively cools the transmission transfer. The air duct placed on the underside lowers the oil temperature too, which contributes to stable performance on the track. Part weight: 1,7 kg Please note : suits only with genuine sway bar.

www.4turbo.pl

 

[Yohz78]

Yes, I did add a hose from the right side of the bumper feeding cold air to the coolant / oil heat exchanger. This requires removing the bumper for easier access. It appears that in very hot weather like we had last week in France the gain is "non-negligeable", about 5-10°C less on the oil temperature remaining just under / around 100°C. Difficult to say how many degrees exactly by "reading" the OEM Oil temperature gauge...

View attachment 36641 View attachment 36639 View attachment 36640 View attachment 36642 View attachment 36643

Maybe this gain is the result of an association to the optional TRD vented engine (plug & play) undercover I installed. ? This one feeds cold air directly to the gearbox and transfer box. Some stray air may also wander across the oil cooler ?

TRD Engine Cooling Under Cover Guard Toyota GR Yaris - 51410-52120

This cover fits underneath the engine of your GR Yaris and effectively cools the transmission transfer. The air duct placed on the underside lowers the oil temperature too, which contributes to stable performance on the track. Part weight: 1,7 kg Please note : suits only with genuine sway bar.

www.4turbo.pl

Thanks for the detailed feedback and pictures !

I have bought the duct and a clean vent with a protection grill. I'm going to drill though the little plate left of the cooler and try to have a clean finish.

I'll probably buy the undercover plate too. I'll swap back to OEM one during winter so the gearbox can warm up

 

[Michael Knight]

for fast road the car is quite ready off the shelf, but for fast track use it needs few bits to make it reliable.
There was again one GRC engine failure on track (presumably from oil pressure).

 

[Yohz78]

for fast road the car is quite ready off the shelf, but for fast track use it needs few bits to make it reliable.
There was again one GRC engine failure on track (presumably from oil pressure).

Was it running with wide semi-slicks ?

Doubt you can have oil pressure issue on GRY with stock tyre size, even with semi slicks, especially if you overfill ... I bought some GF A6 oil to overfill prior any track use. Going to run without additionnal cooling this saturday. We'll see how it is. I've ordered parts to make a clean air duct for the air oil exchanger. If it is not enought with the duct I'll probably try the engine undertray. But we're a bit off topic here

 

[Michael Knight]

Was it running with wide semi-slicks ?

Doubt you can have oil pressure issue on GRY with stock tyre size, even with semi slicks, especially if you overfill ... I bought some GF A6 oil to overfill prior any track use. Going to run without additionnal cooling this saturday. We'll see how it is. I've ordered parts to make a clean air duct for the air oil exchanger. If it is not enought with the duct I'll probably try the engine undertray. But we're a bit off topic here

I think it had wider boots but not certain.