GR Yaris Alignment, Camber and handling related talks

Thanks for your reply!

I suppose the guy at the service point will be familiar about the tabs correct position....🤔

I am thinking about the following setup

Front Camber: L-2.5°, R-2.5°
Toe: L+0,5mm, R+0,5mm
Caster: L+5.8°, R+5.8° - max factory values??

Rear Camber: L-2.5°, R-2.5°
Toe: L+1mm, R+1mm

Is this a balanced setup ?
I don't want to loose factory stability e.g. tramlining, braking....
I would suggest going with a little toe in on the rear if you don't want it to be more lively. Try 1.5mm. the rest of your proposed settings look fine.
 
I would suggest going with a little toe in on the rear if you don't want it to be more lively. Try 1.5mm. the rest of your proposed settings look fine.

About toe values
I mean total toe front +1mm (L+0,5, R+0,5) and total rear toe +2mm (L+1mm, R+1mm)

You suggest total rear toe +3mm (L+1,5mm, R+1,5mm)....?
 
About toe values
I mean total toe front +1mm (L+0,5, R+0,5) and total rear toe +2mm (L+1mm, R+1mm)

You suggest total rear toe +3mm (L+1,5mm, R+1,5mm)....?
1mm rear per side would be ok, 1,5mm would add a little more stability. Front with total toe of 1mm is also ok
 
The settings will be mainly for street use.

Also, do you sit inside the car during the alignment measurements?
Because for my Mazda ΜΧ5 NC when I do alignment I sit inside the car....
 
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The settings will be mainly for street use.

Also, do you sit inside the car during the alignment measurements?
Because for my Mazda NC when I do alignment I sit inside the car....
No not for alignment, only for corner weighting with adjustable dampers.
 
I'm running the following since my AST4100 install at String Theory which seems a really good balance for road use...

Front Camber: L-2.75°, R-2.75°
Toe: L+0,6mm, R+0,6m
Caster: L+5.2°, R+5.2°

Rear Camber: L-2.5°, R-2.5°
Toe: L+1.1mm, R+1.1mm

I've not driven stock settings for very many miles but it was a bit lifeless (if that makes sense) and 'understeery' well before the limits of the car. I had changed to the settings below from stock which improved the initial turn-in and mid-corner feel I did like it but was a bit 'twitchy' in straight lines over rough surfaces.

Front camber -3Deg Toe 2mm
rear camber -2Deg Toe 2mm
 
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Front Camber: L-2.75°, R-2.75°
Toe: L+0,6mm, R+0,6m
Caster: L+5.2°, R+5.2°

Rear Camber: L-2.5°, R-2.5°
Toe: L+1.1mm, R+1.1mm

You are in my mind... 🤓

Is there any stability issues?
Also i don't prefer corner oversteering...
 
You are in my mind... 🤓

Is there any stability issues?
Also i don't prefer corner oversteering...
Yet to oversteer on the road, no where near that level of commitment you'll be glad to hear, i do keep mine in 50/50 drive mode. I expect i'll get a few track days or closed road blasts at some point so will know more about the limits at some point...my current set-up feels better, than my previous both of which are much improved over stock (sorry Toyota).
 
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Thanks for your reply!

I suppose the guy at the service point will be familiar about the tabs correct position....🤔

I am thinking about the following setup

Front Camber: L-2.5°, R-2.5°
Toe: L+0,5mm, R+0,5mm
Caster: L+5.8°, R+5.8° - max factory values??

Rear Camber: L-2.5°, R-2.5°
Toe: L+1mm, R+1mm

Is this a balanced setup ?
I don't want to loose factory stability e.g. tramlining, braking....

Regarding positioning tabs correctly Powerflex offer 🔗instructions and, if you got two tab washers, I understand these should be fitted on opposing sides.

I believe caster is not adjustable on this car unless you use aftermarket solutions like caster kits or top mounts that offer this.

...
Is there any stability issues?
Also i don't prefer corner oversteering...

If you want stability, predictability & to avoid any sudden oversteer that can occur even with stock geo, the rear trailing arm bush kit (eg by DNA Racing) is worth looking into (and then you can do the alignment once all hardware is in place).
 
Attached are the settings I have on mine but it does a fair bit of track work.

Thanks for sharing. The left-right camber difference suggests to me a pattern rather than coincidence.

If you're deliberately going for circa half a degree more camber on the driver side, is there a compelling reason for that?

Also, are these for a lowered car? Would you tone anything down for stock suspension?
 
Thanks for sharing. The left-right camber difference suggests to me a pattern rather than coincidence.

If you're deliberately going for circa half a degree more camber on the driver side, is there a compelling reason for that?

Also, are these for a lowered car? Would you tone anything down for stock suspension?
Yes I was experimenting with more O/S camber as one of the tracks I compete at has a number of fast left hand bends and I was getting understeer with equal camber. Conclusion was that it helped a bit but not a lot so the car now runs equal camber across the axles.

Yes the car is lowered around 30mm - runs on KW Clubsports.

I see no reason to stray away from these settings with stock suspension if you are tracking the car, if not, then about 2,5F and 1.5R camber would make it more better for the road.
 
Hey,

I bought my GR a month ago and being used to having -2.5° front camber in my previous car, I find the stock Yaris a bit understeery mid corner. While it is manageable and not necessarly a bad thing, I'd like to bring the front camber to between -2° to -2.5°, keeping -2° rear. i'm planning to keep stock toe values as I do not feel confident touching these and am quite happy with stock balance between stability/ turn in.

Where I live, sticking to OEM part is a lot better legality-wise. I read that toyota do OEM camber bolt which is perfect for what I want. However, I'm a bit lost when it comes to which one I should buy. I saw there was several different types ect ... May I ask what reference would be the good one to reach my front camber goal ?

To my understanding I'd need 4 90105-17015 bolt ? I only want to adjust front camber, so I really need 4 bolts ?

My mechanic will mount to them and do the alignment afterward.

Thanks in advance !

Yohz
 
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I think maybe my mk2 has some handling issues. When accelerating in a turn, it feels like it understeers and when de-accelerating it oversteers. Is this normal behavior? I just had a wheel alignment and it didn’t help much or any at all.
 
I think maybe my mk2 has some handling issues. When accelerating in a turn, it feels like it understeers and when de-accelerating it oversteers. Is this normal behavior? I just had a wheel alignment and it didn’t help much or any at all.
Somewhat normal..
 
Hi,

Is there any info how much negative camber will give me the replacement of OEM front upper (no dot) camber bolt
by Toyota's 90105-17013 (one dot) camber bolt...?
 
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Hi,

Is there any info how much negative camber will give me the replacement of OEM front upper (no dot) camber bolt
by Toyota's 90105-17013 (one dot) camber bolt...?
Hey,
I mounted the 90105-17013 just yesterday and did an alignment. I now have -2° 22 ' = -2.37° of camber.

The mechanic managed to reach-2 ° 07' = -2.11° rear but from my understanding it's not tunable. I may just be lucky there.

However, the mechanic misunderstood what I wanted for toe and setted it at -0 ° 1' front and + 0° 15' back. I wanted -0 ° 4' front and + 0° 4' back.

So now the set up is :

FRONT : - 2°22' Camber -0.0 ° 1' Toe OUT
REAR : -2° 7' Camber +0.0° 15' toe IN

Obviously it is overly safe with the rear being a lot too stable during turn-in or when stepping on gaz. It does not turn as I wan't it too. The front hasn't gain the sharpness I wanted with toe out either. The car lost a lot of its fun factor. I complained and we will correct the toe next saturday with me present, ensuring that I get the set up I really wanted ...

The camber is great though, I used to mark the tyrewall a LOT, few cm of marks. I could feel the poor tyre being flexed and collapsing. From the few test I did, even while reaching limit of traction when around a round about, I never felt the tyre flex that I used to and there is no new mark on the tyrewall. Maybe -2.37° won't be enough with semi-slicks but with stock PS4S at the limit of grip it seems to be enough camber.
 
@Yohz78
Thank you for the reply!
The negative camber - using 90105-17013 - is standard to value -2° 22 '....or you can decrease to e.x. -1° 80 '...?
How the mechanic managed to reach rear camber to -2 ° 07'....? mine is to -1 ° 50' fixed.

If somebody knows
Toyota camber bolts 90105-17015 (3 dots) and 90105-17014 (2 dots) how much negative camber gives in front?

I would like front negative camber around -1° 80 ' using one of the above Toyota bolts...
 
@Yohz78
Thank you for the reply!
The negative camber - using 90105-17013 - is standard to value -2° 22 '....or you can decrease to e.x. -1° 80 '...?
How the mechanic managed to reach rear camber to -2 ° 07'....? mine is to -1 ° 50' fixed.

If somebody knows
Toyota camber bolts 90105-17015 (3 dots) and 90105-17014 (2 dots) how much negative camber gives in front?

I would like front negative camber around -1° 80 ' using one of the above Toyota bolts...
No idea how he did it. Here is the chart.

You can't have 1° 80', you are talking about 1.8° which is not the same. (1° 45' - 50' I guess?)

You can probably reduce a bit front camber. No idea why you would want to though, might aswell keep stock bolt and camber ?

IMG-20250618-WA0006.webp
 
No idea how he did it. Here is the chart.

You can't have 1° 80', you are talking about 1.8° which is not the same. (1° 45' - 50' I guess?)

You can probably reduce a bit front camber. No idea why you would want to though, might aswell keep stock bolt and camber ?
Yes you are right...1° 50'
My rear camber is already 1° 50' (Toyota fixed - no mods) and I would like to have the same front/rear camber.
I think it will be more balanced...
 
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