Yes, right wing mirror only, for me too (mine is RHD).
I think pressing the matt plastic "lip" around the glass of the mirror stops the noise for while I apply pressure.
Both checked fine.
Next check will be caliper area, I think.
The crack-crack noise on harder braking is almost impossible to replicate now. I have to try really hard to hear a similar noise, but it seems now more of a one-off and it does it very briefly.
I'll wait a bit until I have a chance...
Problem persists and with the warmer weather it still seems to be a lot more evident.
Not major enough for Toyota to deal with, but quite annoying. Also, with the driver's window open, it can be a distraction.
@Sam if you managed to cure it, please share how.
I'm under the impression that rear camber is not adjustable as stock. Powerflex or similar is the cheapest solution I could find.
A good starting point may be to establish what stock settings you currently have exactly. See how fortunate @Sam is with rear stock camber on his...
No expert here; so, just sharing some thoughts rather than recommendations.
I am under the impression that rear camber is not adjustable with stock bolts. You may already have - 2 deg camber there by coincidence, in which case, great for you. But you may as well have a different setting and...
Very, very true about me too, as I sometimes get reminded.
Also, engaging in forums like this feeds our niche tendencies, taking us more and more into our own little bubble and away from anything "common".
Both good & bad, but requires awareness & management.
The ticking noises remained very consistently for half a year. Then I washed the underside, changed tyres (which still had a bit of life) and they disappeared. No ticking noises for hundreds of miles now and I hope it stays that way.
3 symptoms:
- braking steers the car to one direction a bit (might be unrelated)
- crack-crack noises on harder braking
- similar noises upon acceleration immediately afterwards
When braking gently, the car seems fine. I think I'm getting a feel as if it's steering to one direction, but no...
For info, the DNA Racing page states "This product is no longer available." (I can't find the listing for the "whole" arm option either). Strange!
https://www.dna-racing.it/en/toyota-gr-yaris-mk1/1338-dna-racing-uniball-for-rear-swing-arm-suspension-kit.html
I think they should film a documentary or something to show how difficult it is to drive in & out of car parks & how unfit for purpose their design is in that sense.
I remember once deliberately checking how others navigate the tight corners at exit points, etc to see if it's just me who finds...
Is there any point in adding negative camber at the rear instead of or as well as adding toe in there? For example, if from current -2º24' I maxed out the Powerflex bolts there, I would expect anything between -2º35' & -2º45' would add a bit of stability and work better in tandem with the -3º...
Stock BBS forged wheels; so, 225/40 R18 with Continental SportContact7.
Pressures are:
front 32 psi;
rear have been anything between 29 & 31 psi with no material difference to that problematic behaviour; or none that I could notice, anyway.
Thank you!
Yes, toe in at the rear currently. What do you think I should I set it to (from current +0º04')?
Regarding fron toe, I went 5-6 minutes out, because I found 3 minutes out to be... well, not direct enough and I wanted to eliminate understeer. I remember everyone was opting for out...
Thank you!
No adjustable dampers/ride height here.
Does +0º10 toe at the rear:
- cause premature wear on any part of those tyres with no track use, some fast road but also motorway miles?
- mean less fun? With my current setting, while on Sport & with the tyre shop having left tyre...
Have I gone too aggressive?
After enjoying stock for a start, I went for:
-2.5º front & -2º10' rear camber,
- 0º03' front & +0º06' rear toe.
The difference was positive, but understeer was still annoying & rotation not really as much or playfull as I would like it.
I moved on to:
-3º...
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