GR86 Steering Wheel Removal - Tips and Advice

I recently decided I'm finally going to get around to having my steering wheel retrimmed. Something I've always wanted to do, but put off due to potentially having to leave the car immobile while its done. But I've just agreed to buy a well-worn second hand OEM wheel from another user with a view to sending that off to be trimmed while I keep my original.

Despite watching and reading several tutorials, I'm still a bit nervous about the removal procedure...it seems it's very easy to muck up, so I just wanted to canvass opinions from those who've done it...how difficult/scary is it really?

The basic procedure I know should be:
- Park the car with the steering wheel as straight as possible.
- Disconnect battery to discharge the airbag
- Remove and disconnect the airbag, and other connectors left linking to the clock spring.
- Crack off the 17mm nut securing the wheel, but leave it on, then rock the wheel to loosen it.
- Remove the nut fully, then gently withdraw the wheel and ensure that the airbag wiring is passed through to ensure the clock spring isn't disturbed/pulled apart.
...then hopefully it's just a case of reversing the procedure to put the new wheel on.

Seems fairly straightforward, but I've got a few queries for those have done it.
- Should the steering lock be engaged? I know it should be straight, but I read on the US forum about someone who ran into difficulty when, while trying to undo the nut, they ended up moving the wheel and the lock engaged. I'm guessing this is because the wheel would have to be moved off centre to engage the lock. So, don't engage it and just be careful to hold the wheel firmly while undoing the nut?
- How delicate is the clock spring? In the videos I've seen, it looks like the main risk is that pulling the wheel off pulls the clock spring "out" as well. If the clock spring rotation is disturbed during the procedure, is it a big deal as long as it's returned to the 12 o'clock before the new wheel goes back on?
- Seen a few posts where people have found that they need a wheel alignment after replacing the wheel, despite making sure it was dead straight beforehand. Is this more of a risk with aftermarket wheels possibly having their locating splines machines slight differently? I'm hoping as I'm swapping for an OEM wheel I won't have the same problem.

Any advice or pointers appreciated.

Hi,
You got all points well covered.
It is a straightforward job as described.
Use the biggest wrench you got with drive extension to undo 17 mm nut. This minimises force applied by you and possible accidental movement of wheel to engage steering lock.
The clock spring has plastic housing and sits in a recess and is somewhat vulnerable if you are not aware of it. It is not delicate, I used my fingers to lightly push and hold it when disconnecting connections.
For refitting I used google to find out 17 mm nut torque of 41 Nm.
As you have done a bit of research prior starting a job, I can’t see any reason not to proceed.

Salko_GR said:

Use the biggest wrench you got with drive extension to undo 17 mm nut. This minimises force applied by you and possible accidental movement of wheel to engage steering lock.

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I have a breaker bar, but would it be a bad idea to use an impact gun? I feel like that might be better to crack off the nut while I brace the wheel.

I see on all professional car videos use of impact guns for undoing any bolts.
Due to limited space in the 86, probably would be good option to crack nut with. Bracing the wheel is not necessary, I had both of my hands on the wrench.

Thanks. Usually I wouldn't worry, but just want to be extra careful with this as it's so easy to get wrong.

I'm the same, I was thinking of upgrading to a GR wheel, but worried I wont be able to put the wheel straight again. Sounds like you've done your research, so with a bit of luck should work out easily - good luck

grzoostuff said:

I'm the same, I was thinking of upgrading to a GR wheel, but worried I wont be able to put the wheel straight again. Sounds like you've done your research, so with a bit of luck should work out easily - good luck

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I'm hoping that as I'm swapping to another OEM wheel, the splines would match up in the same place. If it's slightly off, it's not the end of the world, would just mean getting it sorted at the next alignment, but it would irritate me.