GR Yaris Hello there

Onehp said:
If you put in quite some toe in, say 1/12 of a turn on the tracking rod each side, feel will improve a lot. Just mark up where it was, so you can return there for summer.
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Cheers I will stick to the alignment we did last time.

Took off the brake cooling lines as they seem to be wear item. Will put on again when there’s hot summer track nights..

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REALLY tight places - not possible to add any airbox - maybe need to add some cooling holes to the upper black trim above airbox to allow more fresh air.

On motorway back home oiltemp was down 5-10’C so seems to work, ranging btw 85-90 on 130kmh, was before 95-100’C

Its fun to fiddle sometimes with custom builds but maybe ready kit would have been easier..

Though cooler size was spot on - just mounting could be maybe improved. Oh well..

Moved also the horn away from the front cooler pack.
 
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Installed the DNA lower subframe support - really happy with the product quality, it is much more robust than what I initially thought it would be.
With these tires not good to test but front end feels tad more direct and precise - can be placebo effect too. :D

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No, you have a cool red bar under the car, of course it drives better. That's why I installed a lot of them there :). And if it's not, it looks cool... on the lift and that justifies it all :D.
 
Greenthumb said:
No, you have a cool red bar under the car, of course it drives better. That's why I installed a lot of them there :). And if it's not, it looks cool... on the lift and that justifies it all :D.
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Took today the GR for a late evening spin and honesty think the front end feels better now.
But best to test on the track next summer.
 
Little improvement to oil cooler air flow.
Noticed that lower airbox flap signal wire was off - maybe for some time - of well.

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Got annoyed that Lazer led bar was not straight
Also fixed the Lazer ecoboost plug that had been broken(?) for some reason. good warranty service and got a replacement part from Lazer for free.

Fun fact that bumper is really easy to remove now when done it few times, maybe 10min including lifting the car.
Also notice the pro quality aero blockages for transmission cooler channels - better to keep them blocked during winter!
 
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Michael Knight said:
Shield removal seems to add more engine growl which I like, however it is likely impossible to remove the shield in one piece so not recommending the removal if that' s an issue.
Haven't tested it yet with full beans ride.
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Ha ha I had a similar time trying to remove that shield without causing damage but happily I can share how it’s done.
If you look carefully at the grommets they have small dots on them. If you align the dots vertically and squeeze either side they pull out. Do not use a normal trim removal tool as they are very tight. There is a circlip plier style of tool with flat sides for these grommets. They may be present in other parts of the car although no one has mentioned it.
 
Yaris146 said:
Ha ha I had a similar time trying to remove that shield without causing damage but happily I can share how it’s done.
If you look carefully at the grommets they have small dots on them. If you align the dots vertically and squeeze either side they pull out. Do not use a normal trim removal tool as they are very tight. There is a circlip plier style of tool with flat sides for these grommets. They may be present in other parts of the car although no one has mentioned it.
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Thanks for the hint - I can agree that they’re very tight indeed!
 
that single bar doesn't do so much on its own, better fit the larger one as well which make huge difference

also to note the large frame is in a good location but that single bar compromises the ride height, anything large like a rock that hits the bar could do damage to subframe, I've had to be a lot more aware what i'm driving over than previously would

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Yaris San said:
that single bar doesn't do so much on its own, better fit the larger one as well which make huge difference

also to note the large frame is in a good location but that single bar compromises the ride height, anything large like a rock that hits the bar could do damage to subframe, I've had to be a lot more aware what i'm driving over than previously would
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Don't think it is much of an issue as my car is not lowered and not driving on such rough rocky roads. Worth using a slider plate / oil pan protection if driven under such conditions.
 
Stock undertray costs 485€ so not that cheap either. Likely will get the TRD original and maybe create a reinforced winter version from the broken one.
 
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