GR Yaris How far have you gone with your chassis mods? How far would you like to go?

[StringTheoryGarage]

I'm curious how far people have gone, we're so selective as a business with what we will and won't encourage people to fit, but I sometimes wonder if I'm on the mark with what people like and don't like!

So our car is quite a simple formula of bits we keep on the shelf:

Our AST x String Theory collaboration AST 4100 coilover kit
Hard race spherical bearings in the front control arms
Hard race anti roll bars front and rear
Hard race rear camber arms
Hard race front strut brace
String Theory x Custom cages half cage
AP Full floating front disc kit with our anti-rattle conversion
Stock discs - rear
Pagid RSL29 front
Ferodo DS Uno rear
Tarox braided brake lines
ATE Typ 200 brake fluid
Evo Corse P-Def ceramic brake shims
Evo Corse 18x9" ET35 wheels with Yokohama A052 tyres

With that setup and bolt on power & cooling mods including our ECU tune we've run comfortable 7:50 BTG laps of the Nurburgring *with* traffic to contend with, virtual best around 7:40, the car definitely has 7:3x laps in it no problem with some more committed driving from me, and I'm sure much quicker again with a pro behind the wheel. Silverstone GP is 2:26 with little to no practise (again driver limit not the car), but at the same time I can cruise around daily and down country lanes, pick up my family (pre-half cage), do all the daily tasks (excluding the lack of rear seats...). I'm constantly tempted to go further with the car, but it's realistically un-necessary! I think at the Nurburgring I would have liked a set of 2 way dampers, but the additional cost puts me on the fence, because it is only really at the outer limits of circuit use that I feel I'm "missing out".

You'll see me buzzing around in the background on this video, I did actually record laps myself but I cocked up the gopro settings so it's all scrap. Doh.



So what has anyone else done? Is the forum filled with people with Verkline subframe kits and £10k 3 way damper kits, or is everyone happy with the car stock?

 

[Sekred]

I am running spherical bearings in the front control arms, Hard Race and Power Flex. Hard Race spherical bushing in the rear trailing arms and lower wishbones. Hard Race toe and chamber arms.
Your lowered springs. Cusco strut tops. Strut brace, different brake pads and hi temp fluid. CS7 18x235 tyres.

 

[banzai2]

I heard bad stuff about hard race so have avoided all their products. I am pretty sure it was on one of the forums.
I got the Litchfield Nitron suspension with a 10mm lowering plus Wiborg wishbones. Also swapped front discs for 2kg lighter aftermarket ones. Forge intercooler and oil cooler. Nankang AR1 for track use on the oem wheels, OZ for road use. Car seems fine on road and track but it is not a race car so prob won't go much farther though a new baffled sump is likely.

 

[GottGry]

I'm curious how far people have gone, we're so selective as a business with what we will and won't encourage people to fit, but I sometimes wonder if I'm on the mark with what people like and don't like!

With that setup and bolt on power & cooling mods including our ECU tune we've run comfortable 7:50 BTG laps of the Nurburgring *with* traffic to contend with, virtual best around 7:40, the car definitely has 7:3x laps in it no problem

So what has anyone else done? Is the forum filled with people with Verkline subframe kits and £10k 3 way damper kits, or is everyone happy with the car stock?

Well done and nice video.
What hp numbers is in "setup and bolt-on power" ?

I have MCA strut tops and coils with Wiborg spec, and Cusco front/rear brace and brackets for toe and camber in the rear, and cornerweight and alignment by Wiborg, Carbotech XP8' and ATE200 and hrnshn brake cooling, and seats and Heigo rollbar and maybe 40kg gone, running on 17x9 and 255 A052's. No extra power at all ...and I'm an old fart
Last visit I did 8,36 with relaxed driving on the warmup lap on TF, and then it was all yellows and havoc. I think I have 8,15 in normal traffic in it next time, still with safe and relaxed driving.
Honestly; I'm out of idea's of more or necessary updates, maybe I can reach 8,00 in another year or two without adding extra power.

 

[Euge]

Hey Ben, long time no speak mate. Hope all is good.

" or is everyone happy with the car stock?"

Pretty much me. My GR is being use as a kindergarten chariot and for fun down Estonian country lanes. Would be tempted for a set of coilovers but with the extreme winters we have here. The amount of shit and salt the car collects over winter and the ball ache of trying to clean a car when its -20 outside, I am happy with the stock set up at present. Will be giving some ice lake driving a go this winter which will no doubt fuel some upgrades from then on.

 

[StringTheoryGarage]

I heard bad stuff about hard race so have avoided all their products. I am pretty sure it was on one of the forums.
I got the Litchfield Nitron suspension with a 10mm lowering plus Wiborg wishbones. Also swapped front discs for 2kg lighter aftermarket ones. Forge intercooler and oil cooler. Nankang AR1 for track use on the oem wheels, OZ for road use. Car seems fine on road and track but it is not a race car so prob won't go much farther though a new baffled sump is likely.

I have no idea where the bad rep for hardrace products has come from. They're made in Taiwan, the odd product is a bit of a waste of time, that's about all the negativity I can throw in their direction. Quality is awesome, durability is awesome. I'm *so* fussy about what I will and won't supply, so I'm not just saying that!

We've got the Lamspeed baffled sump kits in stock, nice product, simple and does what it says on the tin.

Well done and nice video.
What hp numbers is in "setup and bolt-on power" ?

I have MCA strut tops and coils with Wiborg spec, and Cusco front/rear brace and brackets for toe and camber in the rear, and cornerweight and alignment by Wiborg, Carbotech XP8' and ATE200 and hrnshn brake cooling, and seats and Heigo rollbar and maybe 40kg gone, running on 17x9 and 255 A052's. No extra power at all ...and I'm an old fart
Last visit I did 8,36 with relaxed driving on the warmup lap on TF, and then it was all yellows and havoc. I think I have 8,15 in normal traffic in it next time, still with safe and relaxed driving.
Honestly; I'm out of idea's of more or necessary updates, maybe I can reach 8,00 in another year or two without adding extra power.

On those laps it was around 315hp/420nm. Wagner intercooler, HKS oil cooler, Turbosmart diverter valve, OPF delete and HKS Legamax exhaust, ITG Maxogen intake. Full weight, actually over weight as I have our cage (~25kg iirc) and still have the rear seats in just folded down, and I had a passenger. No passenger, no traffic I'm sure I'd see a 7:3x BTG out the box and with practise quicker. Actually since then we've fitted a sports cat and done some more work on our ECU development so last time at the dyno I was at 340hp/460nm, even that would find a couple of seconds. Stick a proper pro driver in the car and you'd probably see the same lap time just full lap! hahaha

Stock strut tops, stock rear top mounts, our Cobra Nogaro seat kit, -4 camber front, -2.6 rear, 2mm total toe out front, 2mm total toe in rear.

Hey Ben, long time no speak mate. Hope all is good.

" or is everyone happy with the car stock?"

Pretty much me. My GR is being use as a kindergarten chariot and for fun down Estonian country lanes. Would be tempted for a set of coilovers but with the extreme winters we have here. The amount of shit and salt the car collects over winter and the ball ache of trying to clean a car when its -20 outside, I am happy with the stock set up at present. Will be giving some ice lake driving a go this winter which will no doubt fuel some upgrades from then on.

DJ Euge Funny you say that, one of the changes I made to the AST kit to make our 4100 version was we binned off inverted struts, in shit weather and daily use inverted struts wear out, I figured the Yaris was a proper car for driving in every condition so we were better off sacrificing a bit of unsprung mass for OEM reliability.

I just found the stock chassis competent, but not much fun, not much feel. Reminds me of E36 M3 days, the car itself is awesome and doesn't really need anything, but job one is throw the stock suspension in the bin and put something proper on.

 

[timgeester1000]

This is a great post, thanks for starting it as I am very interested how I can introduce more feel and emotion into the driving experience and I am really interested in hearing what the Hardrace bits add.
Currently I only have the Litchfield Nitron kit, running camber of 2.5 on the front and 2 on the rear. I also have a Cobra Nogaro that has probably added as much feel as anything, arguably the best upgrade to date.
It is my only car but I don't need it for commuting so I would love to turn it up a bit in terms of B road and occasional track performance (3 track days a year).
Other bits: Tarox Corsa pads on the front, standard on the back and braided lines.

 

[tonic]

I have no idea where the bad rep for hardrace products has come from. They're made in Taiwan, the odd product is a bit of a waste of time, that's about all the negativity I can throw in their direction. Quality is awesome, durability is awesome. I'm *so* fussy about what I will and won't supply, so I'm not just saying that!

I believe @Phil1291 has slightly different opinion on that

GR Yaris Post in thread 'DNA racing lower torque mount issue'

Jun 5, 2024

I've heard the same about the Verkline one. I believe @Phil1291 wouldn't recommend it for road use.

The Hardrace is rummored to feel as the name suggests. Similarly high NVH reported for the Cusco one.


For the upper gearbox mount one, no zip tie is needed. So, even if the zip tie doesn't last, it's in an area that is much easier/cheaper to access.

As to whether it lasts or not, I've heard all kinds; from "must use the zip tie" to "it's not required at all", both from official enough sources, to user feedback that ranges from "lasts just fine" to "yellow insert gets squeezed...

• Phil1291

• 
• 
• 

 

[StringTheoryGarage]

I believe @Phil1291 has slightly different opinion on that

GR Yaris Post in thread 'DNA racing lower torque mount issue'

Jun 5, 2024

I've heard the same about the Verkline one. I believe @Phil1291 wouldn't recommend it for road use.

The Hardrace is rummored to feel as the name suggests. Similarly high NVH reported for the Cusco one.


For the upper gearbox mount one, no zip tie is needed. So, even if the zip tie doesn't last, it's in an area that is much easier/cheaper to access.

As to whether it lasts or not, I've heard all kinds; from "must use the zip tie" to "it's not required at all", both from official enough sources, to user feedback that ranges from "lasts just fine" to "yellow insert gets squeezed...

• Phil1291

• 
• 
• 

As I say, some of the products are a bit of a waste of time. Unless a customer absolutely wants one, we don't tend to touch the engine or transmission mounts, I don't think it's a worth while "upgrade". Maybe if you're 500nm+ the stock mountings will struggle, but for a road/track day car with bolt on mods, no need.

I'll give you an example of the bad side of Hardrace - They make "bump steer correction" kits for EG Civic/DC2 Integra that absolutely do not work, they relocate the tie rod into a position that makes bump steer worse. The product is well designed and manufactured, good quality, but will give the car more bump steer. So I obviously would never sell or fit one of those kits. However, the products they sell that DO work are also good quality and well designed and manufactured, so they're a safe bet. Front lower control arm spherical kits, for example, are one of those parts. Also the anti-roll bars they sell are well designed and function well on the car, so that's all good! Rear camber arms are a nice design, work well and available with rubber or sphericals, both good!

I think anyone with a bit of knowledge can see what parts they sell that are or are not good, we sell the products they make that are good, we don't sell the products they make that aren't good!

 

[StringTheoryGarage]

This is a great post, thanks for starting it as I am very interested how I can introduce more feel and emotion into the driving experience and I am really interested in hearing what the Hardrace bits add.
Currently I only have the Litchfield Nitron kit, running camber of 2.5 on the front and 2 on the rear. I also have a Cobra Nogaro that has probably added as much feel as anything, arguably the best upgrade to date.
It is my only car but I don't need it for commuting so I would love to turn it up a bit in terms of B road and occasional track performance (3 track days a year).
Other bits: Tarox Corsa pads on the front, standard on the back and braided lines.

I think for a bit more feel and improved dynamics the front arm sphericals are a great upgrade, the anti-roll bars work nicely but do come with some (mild) compromise to road manners. Actually for a road use only car I'd do front bar alone, it sharpens up the car without really spoiling ride comfort. I ran our car like that for a while, but didn't test it on track.

I'd also go more aggressive on setup, -2.5 degrees is always going to be a bit understeery on track. I'm guessing you have some sort of camber adjustment in the rear for 2 degrees? Or is the car at stock height?

 

[GRgrampa]

Have KW V4 Clubsports fitted and set up by your good selves.

Have made a few minor adjustments since to suit my driving style more and am now running:
Front -3.5deg camber, -0.5mm toe. Rear -2.5 camber, +1.2mm toe

 

[timgeester1000]

I think for a bit more feel and improved dynamics the front arm sphericals are a great upgrade, the anti-roll bars work nicely but do come with some (mild) compromise to road manners. Actually for a road use only car I'd do front bar alone, it sharpens up the car without really spoiling ride comfort. I ran our car like that for a while, but didn't test it on track.

I'd also go more aggressive on setup, -2.5 degrees is always going to be a bit understeery on track. I'm guessing you have some sort of camber adjustment in the rear for 2 degrees? Or is the car at stock height?

Thank you, yes I put some camber bolts on to reduce it at the rear as it was sitting at 2.5 all round after having the Nitrons fitted.
Sounds like I played it a bit safe!
I'll be putting the Hardrace parts on the shopping list.
Do they add much NVH?

 

[StringTheoryGarage]

Thank you, yes I put some camber bolts on to reduce it at the rear as it was sitting at 2.5 all round after having the Nitrons fitted.
Sounds like I played it a bit safe!
I'll be putting the Hardrace parts on the shopping list.
Do they add much NVH?

Very subjective on the NVH front, YES and no all at the same time. I'd say you can't tell the difference if you drive into the workshop, have them fitted then drive out. However, go on two test drives in two identical cars - one with stock rubber and one with sphericals - and you can tell the difference. It's not a bad NVH increase if you're looking to improve the feel of the car though, as the "NVH" basically *is* feel....

 

[timgeester1000]

Very subjective on the NVH front, YES and no all at the same time. I'd say you can't tell the difference if you drive into the workshop, have them fitted then drive out. However, go on two test drives in two identical cars - one with stock rubber and one with sphericals - and you can tell the difference. It's not a bad NVH increase if you're looking to improve the feel of the car though, as the "NVH" basically *is* feel....

Ha, yes that's a good point, thanks.

 

[Michael Knight]

Anyone using Revolution motorsport subframe mounting bolts?
they remove the play/slack from stock bolts, might be good if one is building more precise machine.
They have set for both rear and front subframe.

Revolution Rear member bolt nut set for Toyota GR Yaris

Customize your Yaris CUSCO parts that further enhance style and performance of your car. Import from EasyCars Japan.

easycars.jp

 

[Michael Knight]

I just changed rear trailing arms and am happy with the feeling feedback it gave.
Now got thinking as the other rear arms have also these bubblegum bushes, are they worth updating? For my use case likely stiffer bushings would do the job but appears there is no aftermarket bushines for upper and lower rear control arms.

 

[GR Fab]

Strongflex might have what you need.

 

[Michael Knight]

View attachment 33618
Strongflex might have what you need.

thanks need to have a look. also bushing change often is PITA work so sometimes its worth paying for complete new arms.
Kit for rear appears to be 340€.

For almost the same money hardrace kit can be bought so maybe that's the best budget choice, althought there has been some comments that Hardrace components would not be recommended. Lamspeed is still selling them so cannot be that poor quality?

Hardrace Adjustable Rear Camber and Toe Arm COMBO - 2020+ Toyota GR Ya

Details: To be able to dial in your suspension correctly you NEED this. The ultimate combination to allow you the ability to have full adjustability of the rear end of your Toyota GR Yaris.This is part of the formula we have used in our own development GR Yaris that has already run astonishing...

lamspeedracing.com

 

[Michael Knight]

did some 150km of recce km's and quite happy with solid trailing arm bushings - provides very good feedback which makes recce drives rather special.

 

[bl88coe]

I'm curious how far people have gone, we're so selective as a business with what we will and won't encourage people to fit, but I sometimes wonder if I'm on the mark with what people like and don't like!

So our car is quite a simple formula of bits we keep on the shelf:

Our AST x String Theory collaboration AST 4100 coilover kit
Hard race spherical bearings in the front control arms
Hard race anti roll bars front and rear
Hard race rear camber arms
Hard race front strut brace
String Theory x Custom cages half cage
AP Full floating front disc kit with our anti-rattle conversion
Stock discs - rear
Pagid RSL29 front
Ferodo DS Uno rear
Tarox braided brake lines
ATE Typ 200 brake fluid
Evo Corse P-Def ceramic brake shims
Evo Corse 18x9" ET35 wheels with Yokohama A052 tyres

With that setup and bolt on power & cooling mods including our ECU tune we've run comfortable 7:50 BTG laps of the Nurburgring *with* traffic to contend with, virtual best around 7:40, the car definitely has 7:3x laps in it no problem with some more committed driving from me, and I'm sure much quicker again with a pro behind the wheel. Silverstone GP is 2:26 with little to no practise (again driver limit not the car), but at the same time I can cruise around daily and down country lanes, pick up my family (pre-half cage), do all the daily tasks (excluding the lack of rear seats...). I'm constantly tempted to go further with the car, but it's realistically un-necessary! I think at the Nurburgring I would have liked a set of 2 way dampers, but the additional cost puts me on the fence, because it is only really at the outer limits of circuit use that I feel I'm "missing out".

You'll see me buzzing around in the background on this video, I did actually record laps myself but I cocked up the gopro settings so it's all scrap. Doh.



So what has anyone else done? Is the forum filled with people with Verkline subframe kits and £10k 3 way damper kits, or is everyone happy with the car stock?

Hi Ben. I have your AST 4100 coilovers ready to be installed and looking to get booked in with yourselves sometime soon. Although I would usually just want to get ‘mods’ that I think need doing, I was just wondering what else you recommend?

The car is not a daily and primarily for b roads, I may look to do track days in the future but for now it would just need to be able to cope, which from what I have read is pretty much standard car. I would also only really want ‘mods’ that are going to make a substantial difference, i’m not chasing seconds or anything like that, just anything that makes the car feel better to drive or helps with issues it has. I know a standard car is great to drive as it is but i’m interested to hear what you recommend for fast road use that has a decent effect.
My car currently has whiteline springs which were put on to lower the car for looks but are too much of a compromise on the ride, hence the coilovers, camber bolts and a whiteline caster kit with a fast road geo set up.
I would like an aftermarket engine torque mount as I do have issues with changing between some of the gears and i’ve read this will help a lot, maybe the cusco or dna one and also possibly the other engine and gearbox polybush as i’ve also read they make a noticeable difference on the feel of the car? It looks like you may have a differing opinion though? You also have a few other bits installed on your car so looking forward to hearing which you would benefit me.

Cheers, Paul