GR Yaris Inconsistent Boost

nikoel said:
I was driving my GR the other day thinking to myself. Man I have gotten used to the power. It just doesn’t feel like it did back then. Fast forward to today. Put the foot down and left my stomach behind - all that power out of nowhere

So anyway; had enough of this - just wanted to post this in case it’s useful. When I went to order a replacement solenoid I was told that my part number 25819-0W010 was superseded by 25819F0010

Looks like Toyota have at least realised that they needed a better part

Or hell - it’s a cheaper part for more money. Like the rest of things you buy these days
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How much is the part please? Why didn’t Toyota replace it under warranty if it’s faulty? Irrespective of cost, I wouldn’t buy a new one out of principle as I don’t consider it a consumable item.
 
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GRBadger said:
How much is the part please? Why didn’t Toyota replace it under warranty if it’s faulty? Irrespective of cost, I wouldn’t buy a new one out of principle as I don’t consider it a consumable item.
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It was around 275 Kangaroos

Because I value my time (and ironically my money). If I were to give my car to Toyota they I would have to set aside a day without my car for them to turn around and charge me 300 smackers and tell me nothing is wrong

I also refuse to suffer their dirty paws going over my car

You do you boo, but consider how much your time is worth. If like me you are having issues and it’s affecting your enjoyment of the car it’s too insignificant of a hill to die on. It shouldn’t be this way, but those are the cards that are dealt

You can’t take it to your grave
 
nikoel said:
I

It was around 275 Kangaroos

Because I value my time (and ironically my money). If I were to give my car to Toyota they I would have to set aside a day without my car for them to turn around and charge me 300 smackers and tell me nothing is wrong

I also refuse to suffer their dirty paws going over my car

You do you boo, but consider how much your time is worth. If like me you are having issues and it’s affecting your enjoyment of the car it’s too insignificant of a hill to die on. It shouldn’t be this way, but those are the cards that are dealt

You can’t take it to your grave
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Couldn’t agree more. When I had issues I replaced the spark plugs and was prepared to replace the coil pack before taking to Toyota as the cost of the parts would be less than the inconvenience getting it to the garage leaving it with them and collecting it.
 
The amount of stuff under warranty I paid for to avoid going back to a dealership....
Often only one or two things per car but it adds up.

That said, the amount of headaches and stress I've avoided, and time saved, is worth every cent.

I'm still a man of principles in other areas of my life but with cars I just manage my own expectations.
 
nikoel said:
I was driving my GR the other day thinking to myself. Man I have gotten used to the power. It just doesn’t feel like it did back then. Fast forward to today. Put the foot down and left my stomach behind - all that power out of nowhere

So anyway; had enough of this - just wanted to post this in case it’s useful. When I went to order a replacement solenoid I was told that my part number 25819-0W010 was superseded by 25819F0010

Looks like Toyota have at least realised that they needed a better part

Or hell - it’s a cheaper part for more money. Like the rest of things you buy these days
Click to expand...
This solenoid is actually made by Pierburg. I think the name may give it away but its a German company manufacturing automotive parts and other stuff I think. I have seen these solenoids on Nissans and Subarus.

Personally I think it is the heat that kills these solenoids or may cause erratic operation. Bloody hot under that engine cover, mines sitting in the bedroom.

Good find on the part #. Explains why I was told by a JAP supplier the part was NA. This was last week.

$85.00 AUD direct from the land of the rising sun plus postage. Yumbo Parts.
 
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Sekred said:
This solenoid is actually made by Pierburg. I think the name may give it away but its a German company manufacturing automotive parts and other stuff I think. I have seen these solenoids on Nissans and Subarus.

Personally I think it is the heat that kills these solenoids or may cause erratic operation. Bloody hot under that engine cover, mines sitting in the bedroom.

Good find on the part #. Explains why I was told by a JAP supplier the part was NA. This was last week.

$85.00 AUD direct from the land of the rising sun plus postage. Yumbo Parts.
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Can a MAC valve be wired up as an alternative? can be purchased relatively easially and cheap
 
Sekred said:
This solenoid is actually made by Pierburg. I think the name may give it away but its a German company manufacturing automotive parts and other stuff I think. I have seen these solenoids on Nissans and Subarus.

Personally I think it is the heat that kills these solenoids or may cause erratic operation. Bloody hot under that engine cover, mines sitting in the bedroom.

Good find on the part #. Explains why I was told by a JAP supplier the part was NA. This was last week.

$85.00 AUD direct from the land of the rising sun plus postage. Yumbo Parts.
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Interesting the packaging said made in the USA on mine
 
Made in the USA. Maybe Pierburg built a factory in the US because of the cheap labour rates. I would have chosen Mexico myself :rolleyes: .
$88.00 AUD to my door which includes freight. 23 days from payment to delivery.

Boost Solenoid .webp
 
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Are you replacing due to an issue with your current one? I would be keen to disassemble it and see what's actually going wrong

Sekred said:
Made in the USA. Maybe Pierburg built a factory in the US because of the cheap labour rates. I would have chosen Mexico myself :rolleyes: .
$88.00 AUD to my door which includes freight. 23 days from payment to delivery.

View attachment 33768
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GROB said:
Are you replacing due to an issue with your current one? I would be keen to disassemble it and see what's actually going wrong
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No I am keeping it for a spare.
I have pulled one apart before when I had problems with the original OEM part and could not see any fault. I mean it is just a solenoid so a simple operation. A coil winding, piston, return spring, body and seals.

The coil winding would have a spec for resistance, needed if you were testing the electrical side of it which I did not do.

I am guessing and would say sticky operation would cause problems with the ECU achieving the boost target. Heat soak could be an issue because of where its located. Maximum operating ambient temp is 120c. It may exceed that because of the insulated engine cover and no cooling air flow.

Looking at the parts of the solenoid the coil winding could burn out, the return spring could break or the piston could stick and that's about it I think.

It is a NC (normally closed) solenoid. If it fails then the waste gate remands closed, no boost. So you would call it fail safe.
The problem I had with my GRY was over boost so the piston was sticking. No problem with the return spring.
This also caused CAN Bus issues and sent the engine into Limp mode with illogical dash messages.
 
A’right ladies

Just installed the lil’ trinket went for a drive. Consistent and no issues. Too early to tell as it’s only one drive but initial impressions are positive

Take away from this what you will
 
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Sekred said:
No I am keeping it for a spare.
I have pulled one apart before when I had problems with the original OEM part and could not see any fault. I mean it is just a solenoid so a simple operation. A coil winding, piston, return spring, body and seals.

The coil winding would have a spec for resistance, needed if you were testing the electrical side of it which I did not do.

I am guessing and would say sticky operation would cause problems with the ECU achieving the boost target. Heat soak could be an issue because of where its located. Maximum operating ambient temp is 120c. It may exceed that because of the insulated engine cover and no cooling air flow.

Looking at the parts of the solenoid the coil winding could burn out, the return spring could break or the piston could stick and that's about it I think.

It is a NC (normally closed) solenoid. If it fails then the waste gate remands closed, no boost. So you would call it fail safe.
The problem I had with my GRY was over boost so the piston was sticking. No problem with the return spring.
This also caused CAN Bus issues and sent the engine into Limp mode with illogical dash messages.
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If the solenoid is broken shouldn't the wastegate remain open?
 
my car goes quite happy atm when boosting at 1.5-1.6bar.
did longer drive to watch rally Finland this weekend and sometimes car was dropping WOT boost to 1.3bar - its quite clearly noted.
Driving in normal traffic so no heat / temp issues when this was on.
Would be nice to test with Turbosmart BOV. needs to be seen if I go that route. But maybe need to check what is happening with throttle or wg duty there.

For driving in traffic it would be nice to have a constant performance to estimate where to go or not.
 
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Benj said:
Yes a lot of people have this including myself. There's been discussion about it here https://www.gr-yaris.co.uk/forum/threads/reduced-engine-power.1619/ (discussion starts around the 2nd page) and Facebook groups. Some have tried replacing various valves on the car with no change. At this point I personally believe it's built into the software and unless Toyota acknowledge it abnormal and release an update it will remain this way. Would love to be proven wrong and shown that this is in fact a hardware fault but it's not looking that way. For reference my car is stock.
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I’m literally experiencing this right now.. after a track day it start behaving this way. (Cars stock)

I’ve taken it to the dealer, they have no idea. The tech reckons after “the service” he couldn’t replicate the problem and they sent me on my way.

I replicated the problem instantly when I drove away.

I complained the next day, they said they’d have a tech call me, but it’s now been 4 days and I haven’t heard back.

So yes I have beef with the dealership, and issues still exists..
 
Tim Ali said:
I’m literally experiencing this right now.. after a track day it start behaving this way. (Cars stock)

I’ve taken it to the dealer, they have no idea. The tech reckons after “the service” he couldn’t replicate the problem and they sent me on my way.

I replicated the problem instantly when I drove away.

I complained the next day, they said they’d have a tech call me, but it’s now been 4 days and I haven’t heard back.

So yes I have beef with the dealership, and issues still exists..
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Do as others have done in this thread and pull off a battery lead for 15 minutes to reset the ECU. Worked for me and I haven't had any issues since.
 
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