GR Yaris Alignment question

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grydoc

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The alignment was checked during my recent service and it was spot on apart from just over the limit on rear toe (toed out). See report. I go to RRG in Macclesfield but couldn’t wait for it to be corrected and I live a fair distance away.

So I’ve just called a local place which uses Hunter equipment and have been told that I’ll more than likely need the front doing as well as the rear adjustment could well affect everything else (obviously double the price). I could believe this if the discrepancy was massive but it’s only just out of the limits. I feel sure I can smell bovine excrement but don’t really know much about this and wonder what the general opinion would be…..

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Most ppl run slight toe out F(around 1mm total), R varies (most go 1mm total out for oversteer).
Also, more camber on F than R is common (swap your).

Seems your GRY is setup for reverse lol.
 
Adjusting rear toe (that also changes rear camber slightly) could throw off a straight steering wheel. Personally I would just adjust that steering wheel centering myself (same amount of (opposite in resp out) turn on each steering rod, e.g. 1/12turn) if I know front toe is otherwise fine.
 
MarkoS said:
Most ppl run slight toe out F(around 1mm total), R varies (most go 1mm total out for oversteer).
Also, more camber on F than R is common (swap your).

Seems your GRY is setup for reverse lol.
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I assume the standard values on the report are as recommended by the manufacturer which seem to be more negative camber at the rear than the front? I’m happy with standard geometry as presumably recommended by Tommi Makinen.

And what does 1mm mean? The values are in degrees and minutes not mm??! Apologies if this is a daft question.
 
Onehp said:
Adjusting rear toe (that also changes rear camber slightly) could throw off a straight steering wheel. Personally I would just adjust that steering wheel centering myself (same amount of (opposite in resp out) turn on each steering rod, e.g. 1/12turn) if I know front toe is otherwise fine.
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Thanks 👍🏻
 
grydoc said:
... standard geometry as presumably recommended by Tommi Makinen...
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I doubt it. Even if that's the case, it would be worth considering "recommended for...?".

I don't think there are just good and bad geo settings objectively. It all depends on the intent. For example, are you (or Toyota or Makinen) prioritising better tyre longivity? Or understeer over oversteer? Or cornering grip over straight line grip and stability?

Also, even in the standard manufacturer values, in the case of the GRY these span across a huge range.
 
grydoc said:
I assume the standard values on the report are as recommended by the manufacturer which seem to be more negative camber at the rear than the front? I’m happy with standard geometry as presumably recommended by Tommi Makinen.

And what does 1mm mean? The values are in degrees and minutes not mm??! Apologies if this is a daft question.
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Standard geometry is often set up to be a safe setup for a regular driver to minimise the loss of control if there is a sudden loss of grip.
It is the totally different approach to going fast. can sometimes work for both, but usually not. Racing shops can recommend geo suitable for fast track.
 
Michael Knight said:
Standard geometry is often set up to be a safe setup for a regular driver to minimise the loss of control if there is a sudden loss of grip.
It is the totally different approach to going fast. can sometimes work for both, but usually not. Racing shops can recommend geo suitable for fast track.
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This. I am careful in recommending aggresive geometries as near enough nobody will test how it works at high speed evasive action. For that you need an open airfield and guts. And most driving around with aggressive setups will avoid provoking the car at high speed which is natural.

But one should not disregard the active safety aspect as in the extreme case when you do need the car to be docile and not throw the back out when avoiding a crash* will hopefully never happen during ownership, in the same way that you don't test airbags but you want them to work when sh*t hits the fan...

*rather then causing it, esp can only do so much....
 
grydoc said:
I assume the standard values on the report are as recommended by the manufacturer which seem to be more negative camber at the rear than the front? I’m happy with standard geometry as presumably recommended by Tommi Makinen.

And what does 1mm mean? The values are in degrees and minutes not mm??! Apologies if this is a daft question.
Click to expand...
You can read the toe both ways, guess it depends on the geo device doing the alignment.
Looking at front wheels from above the car you can measure the angle between them / \ or distance change.
 
Just been thinking about this again, with such tiny adjustments required and the wheel rim being used as a reference surface, should the first job not be to check for any run out on the wheel? I can’t recall seeing that being done when I’ve watched other cars being aligned.
 
Op unless you are unhappy I wouldn’t do anything with that. It is running toe in rear (unless I’m reading that wrong) just a little less than std. ok should turn in better so how does it drive ?
I’ve not seen a car that evenly balanced before and my Toyota was pretty lopsided, has your car been done before?
Unless you think it’s a bit feisty just drive it and work out what it needs from there.
I did get mine done but I had specific issues I thought alignment may solve and I knew exactly in my mind what I wanted wound on.
 
Any adjustment to the rear can tend to have a bearing on the front. The problem is the geo needs to be done all of a piece, so toe changes at the rear will affect camber and then that in turn will slightly change how the front sits. What they are telling you is correct you need to redo the geo setup.

You want at least a minimal amount of toe in. I go for the minimum within OEM tolerance of 0.04 toe in and run the front with parallel toe, (0.0) though I do have camber bolts in the front to give 2.5 deg neg camber to help with turn in and liven the handling up a little bit.
 
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