GR86 The White and yellow one

Well continuing my adventure with the car decided to first thing to be to paint the rear caliper to match the front one after trying to match to colour and look at price to powered coating decided on cheaper option of DIY as will possible put a big brake kit at rear so a budget option today seems to be the best bet .

The front one colour is https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/PSS-10661/ski-doo-yellow
#bit hard to match unles professionaly done aftter look and researching decided to go with this kit
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003O37KQ2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Also while taking wheels off decided to look under the car there is some rust picture bellow not sure if excessive or normal but will tackle this soon ish any advice is welcome to best product to use pic bellow :

I use ACF50 but I also don’t use mine in the salt.
Japanese cars never fair very well In salty conditions hence the amount of rust you have. The black paint is pretty poor really.

Mine has been driven in the wet after ACF treatment and looks like this after 4500 miles.

Unfortunately is like this now will deal with it the car last year and did drive couple occasion s in winter due my other car got scrapped but now will deep clean pressure wash and do the treatment the ACF 50 is great product! will give it a shot

Well today started by putting some sound deadening at rear of the car easy job cheap and will make longer drivers a bit better , next week will be under the rear car seats not perfect but after reading the forums tried to kinda copy what other people did . Also put back some of the clips missing thank god got a box full of replacements!!

The ACF 50 mentioned above, is that an alternative to Lanoguard?
I have used Lanoguard on my daily, and seems ok, easy to apply, no nasty chemicals (basically sheep fat/Lanolin ) but is quite messy to apply.
Am thinking about protecting the underneath of my GR86, but deciding which is the best option.
Any other thoughts/recommendations gratefully received

Nigel L said:

The ACF 50 mentioned above, is that an alternative to Lanoguard?
I have used Lanoguard on my daily, and seems ok, easy to apply, no nasty chemicals (basically sheep fat/Lanolin ) but is quite messy to apply.
Am thinking about protecting the underneath of my GR86, but deciding which is the best option.
Any other thoughts/recommendations gratefully received

Click to expand...

I came from Lotus environment and ACF50 was a highly recommended inhibitor. That’s the main reason why I use it. I used it on the wishbones on my Elise and found it good stuff.

GRMatt74 said:

I came from Lotus environment and ACF50 was a highly recommended inhibitor. That’s the main reason why I use it. I used it on the wishbones on my Elise and found it good stuff.

Click to expand...

Wanted to use this on the suspension, but how do you apply it? I tried with the hand spray thing that comes with it, but it came out in squirts rather than a spray. A YT vid suggests using an airgun on a compressor, so that was going to be my next attempt when the weather gets dry.

MorrisM said:

Wanted to use this on the suspension, but how do you apply it? I tried with the hand spray thing that comes with it, but it came out in squirts rather than a spray. A YT vid suggests using an airgun on a compressor, so that was going to be my next attempt when the weather gets dry.

Click to expand...

I found the same, it's very thick, so I found spraying it on as best I could, then just wiping it around with a rag was best...but pretty messy. I could do with going over mine again, I think they sell it as and aerosol so I might try that next.

Conscript said:

I found the same, it's very thick, so I found spraying it on as best I could, then just wiping it around with a rag was best...but pretty messy. I could do with going over mine again, I think they sell it as and aerosol so I might try that next.

Click to expand...

Sounds like the same as applying the Lanoguard. In the end, used an old spray bottle, put some of the Lanoguard in, which I had warmed up, which seemed to help, and then had a fine more manageable spray, which you could nicely apply on the actual part that you wanted covering, rather than all over the place. Bit more of a faff, but got more of the stuff on the parts that I actually wanted it on

MorrisM said:

Wanted to use this on the suspension, but how do you apply it? I tried with the hand spray thing that comes with it, but it came out in squirts rather than a spray. A YT vid suggests using an airgun on a compressor, so that was going to be my next attempt when the weather gets dry.

Click to expand...

I used a brush.
The best way is to get a pipe into the bottle with a spray gun attached to the hose so it can’t cavitate when you turn it upside down.

GRMatt74 said:

I used a brush.
The best way is to get a pipe into the bottle with a spray gun attached to the hose so it can’t cavitate when you turn it upside down.

Click to expand...

I've got a couple of these in the garage and they are awesome for several reasons, but one is that they work even when upside down: https://www.kwazar.co.uk/846/Kwazar-Mercury-Pro-360-Trigger-Sprayers

Currently used for wheel cleaners and citrus APC, but I wonder if they might work well for something thicker like ACF50.

For reference this is what my car looks like. Had mine since December '22, 18k miles, driven all year round, no additional protection.



I am based in the South East, we don't see road salt very often.

I intend on undersealing it this year, I looked into the popular products, Dinitrol, Waxoyl, Lanoguard, ACF and Bilt Hamber and have settled on going down the Bilt Hamber Dynax route seeing as its in such good condition to start with.

Conscript said:

I've got a couple of these in the garage and they are awesome for several reasons, but one is that they work even when upside down: https://www.kwazar.co.uk/846/Kwazar-Mercury-Pro-360-Trigger-Sprayers

Currently used for wheel cleaners and citrus APC, but I wonder if they might work well for something thicker like ACF50.

Click to expand...

When I tried a cheap sprayer nozzle it didn’t work. The seal in it just wasn’t man enough to pull it up the tube.
Lanoguard do do one but I’m not sure how think lanoguard is compared to ACF50.

tyu said:

Well today started by putting some sound deadening at rear of the car easy job cheap and will make longer drivers a bit better , next week will be under the rear car seats not perfect but after reading the forums tried to kinda copy what other people did . Also put back some of the clips missing thank god got a box full of replacements!!

Click to expand...

I can recommend getting some 5mm closed cell foam to add on top of the sound deadening material too. I used this but there are plenty of options around. One roll was enough to do the inside of the door cards and the rear side trim with a load of material spare. This was mid process, but I covered most of the trim and then put the original white insulation back in place over the top.

The doors sound particularly solid now, and as the whole roll is about 1.2kg I've probably added around 800g across the whole car. I can live with that.

Not worries about the weight as i lost 15 kg now on way to lose another 15kg so will be ok if i put bit of material on car lol already gained performace by losing weight thanks for the opinion

tyu said:

Not worries abou ther weight as i lost 15 kg now on way to lose another 15kg so will be ok if i put bit of material on car lol

Click to expand...

Congratulations!

Latest add-on to the car Shift knob ( bought from a member here) and improvement on rear quarter sound deadening , also the rust treatment at rear is now completed and looks amazing the pics are not good , Waiting the washers for the windows regulator and the Clucth spring

Hello again,


I’ve been making some progress on the car recently. The OEM subwoofer is now installed and working together with the Beat-Sonic PA2T1K Encore. The subwoofer part number is PT979-18230, which is designed for a left-hand-drive car, but it also fits perfectly on a right-hand-drive model.
In the UK, this sub costs around £1,500, but I imported mine from the USA for approximately £750 including taxes and delivery, so it worked out much cheaper.
The installation is now complete and everything is working as expected.
In terms of sound, there is a noticeable improvement in the soundstage. However, I now need to add some sound deadening, as the subwoofer vibrations are causing rattling in the rear plastic panels. That will be my next step.
I really enjoyed the installation and would rate it 3/10 in difficulty. The hardest part was not having a rivet gun.
I also added an inline subwoofer remote control (Kicker CXARC), which I believe is very important because the subwoofer output is maxed out when it is just plugged in.
One important note: no additional cable is required for RHD cars. There is an extra cable on the unit, but it can simply be tucked behind the subwoofer.
the biggest issue I had was grounding. Make sure the negative terminal is bolted to bare metal. I used an 80-grit sanding pad to remove the paint and have better connection

SUBWOOFER
KICKER INLINE CONTROLLER SUB

Next job after sound deadninbg more at rear will be the meg chip low profile chip guards
megachip

And I belive all i wanted to do to the car this year is now done final touches , mudflaps and sub woofercontroller position .