GR Yaris Camber bolts

Michael Knight

Michael Knight

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Any recommendations for camber bolts (target -2 to -2.5 degree).
whiteline seems to be used, in addition to stock Factory Bolts.

Would off centric bolts be easier to adjust the camber?


Whiteline bolts seem to be out of stock in many shops - anyone tried these? Would they work?
Whiteline seem to have some kind of locking shim whereas these do not?

trackparts.ch

Toyota GR Yaris Mk1/2 Sturz-Kit Vorderachse - trackparts.ch for performance only, 75.00 CHF

Trackparts GmbH Sturzschrauben (2 Stück)
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Powerflex

I used the H&R but they‘re out of stock for the next months, at least until March.
So i switched to Powerflex and used them for the last few cars.

Good thing is, they have camber bolts for the rears as well and they cost half of what the H&R cost.
So you can get them for both axles for the price of the H&R front bolts.
 
As above
Due to the smaller X-section area all of these cam type camber bolts are made from very high tensile steel, these are prone to shearing when they fail…..not good!
OEM’s have known this for years and purposely use softer steel for suspension fixings, if they fail then they more likely deform and not break.
Use the Toyota approved bolts, they are properly engineered for the job
 
Can someone please confirm if this is the correct part number for the OE camber bolts to allow up to -3 deg ? 90105-17015
 
GRgrampa said:
Can someone please confirm if this is the correct part number for the OE camber bolts to allow up to -3 deg ? 90105-17015
Click to expand...
Yes that’s the ones you only need 2 of them. One for each front to get pretty much -3 deg I run about -2.9 with these and no issues were only about 12 quid
 
I'll test the Powerflexes and see how they work. It's true that better to use Toyota parts in general if available.
 
This may be handy for peoples reference. OEM is -1m 23s.

I run E for a smidge over -3 degree

IMG-20210510-WA0021.webp
IMG-20210512-WA0011.webp
Screenshot 2021-01-30 at 19.08.31.webp
 
As reported elsewhere I got the following results with one bolt each side (without messing about with two OE bolts each side which are difficult to adjust if following the above table):

1pc ONE dot bolt (90105-17013) upper hole, full articulation (lifting wheel hub with both bolts loose before tightening) = 2,3 deg neg camber both sides

1pc TWO dot bolt (90105-17014) upper hole, full articulation (lifting wheel hub with both bolts loose before tightening) = 3 deg neg camber both sides

I got surprising even result left and right, YMMV. 10min job each side, parts cost peanuts (bolts + new nuts too).

If you want to set a very specific camber angle, it is much easier to finetune the angle with an aftermarket lobed bolt. However no longer OEM parts and perhaps might suddenly snap if overloaded (e.g. overtightened + big pothole).

PS: I settled for 2,3 deg neg camber, with 3 deg neg camber and winter tyres car became much too lively in the rear at high speed and I want a setting that works year round...
 
Onehp said:
As reported elsewhere I got the following results with one bolt each side (without messing about with two OE bolts each side which are difficult to adjust if following the above table):

1pc ONE dot bolt (90105-17013) upper hole, full articulation (lifting wheel hub with both bolts loose before tightening) = 2,3 deg neg camber both sides

1pc TWO dot bolt (90105-17014) upper hole, full articulation (lifting wheel hub with both bolts loose before tightening) = 3 deg neg camber both sides

I got surprising even result left and right, YMMV. 10min job each side, parts cost peanuts (bolts + new nuts too).

If you want to set a very specific camber angle, it is much easier to finetune the angle with an aftermarket lobed bolt. However no longer OEM parts and perhaps might suddenly snap if overloaded (e.g. overtightened + big pothole).

PS: I settled for 2,3 deg neg camber, with 3 deg neg camber and winter tyres car became much too lively in the rear at high speed and I want a setting that works year round...
Click to expand...
interesting that you only replaced the upper bolt and did not adopt the OEM bolt combination in table *B to achieve your desired camber setting. Perhaps Toyota did not also mention this possibility as they didnt want to over complicate the confusing tech doc. Notice that there are no bolt combinations in table B where the lower bolt is zero dots (apart from G, but who would want + camber).

I assume that the standard bolt (no dots) have the thickest diameter with the least adjustment play, and the other bolts with dots are thinner diameter to allow for progressively more adjustment ? I guess changing just one bolt reduces the chances of the alignment getting knocked out ?
 
TakumiF said:
interesting that you only replaced the upper bolt and did not adopt the OEM bolt combination in table *B to achieve your desired camber setting. Perhaps Toyota did not also mention this possibility as they didnt want to over complicate the confusing tech doc. Notice that there are no bolt combinations in table B where the lower bolt is zero dots (apart from G, but who would want + camber).

I assume that the standard bolt (no dots) have the thickest diameter with the least adjustment play, and the other bolts with dots are thinner diameter to allow for progressively more adjustment ? I guess changing just one bolt reduces the chances of the alignment getting knocked out ?
Click to expand...
Correct. As the loose joint is fully articulated by lifting the wheel carrier before tightening (mimicking putting weight on the suspension), it can't move even more in that direction if hitting say a bad pothole. On the other direction of positive camber, I suppose a big enough hit like sliding into a curb could get it knocked out, but then you'll have other worries too and it's the same with the other combinations of course.
 
Onehp said:
As reported elsewhere I got the following results with one bolt each side (without messing about with two OE bolts each side which are difficult to adjust if following the above table):

1pc ONE dot bolt (90105-17013) upper hole, full articulation (lifting wheel hub with both bolts loose before tightening) = 2,3 deg neg camber both sides

1pc TWO dot bolt (90105-17014) upper hole, full articulation (lifting wheel hub with both bolts loose before tightening) = 3 deg neg camber both sides

I got surprising even result left and right, YMMV. 10min job each side, parts cost peanuts (bolts + new nuts too).

If you want to set a very specific camber angle, it is much easier to finetune the angle with an aftermarket lobed bolt. However no longer OEM parts and perhaps might suddenly snap if overloaded (e.g. overtightened + big pothole).

PS: I settled for 2,3 deg neg camber, with 3 deg neg camber and winter tyres car became much too lively in the rear at high speed and I want a setting that works year round...
Click to expand...
Doesn't the Toyota chart indicate that the bolt should be put in the lower hole or am I reading this incorrectly?
 
mikec911 said:
Doesn't the Toyota chart indicate that the bolt should be put in the lower hole or am I reading this incorrectly?
Click to expand...
Toyota chart is lower AND upper. I replaced the upper as it will change the angles a bit more, if I want to slightly reduce the camber with this full articulation method, I could just swap places on the bolts.
 
I put number 4 bolt in top hole
Only and have 2.5-3 degrees of negative camber depending on where you tighten while
Pushing hard !
 
Hey, reviving an old topic, but I think all of you are still active in the forum.

My plan is to get the "two dots" bolts for the top bolts for track usage and go back to stock bolts for the street. How is my toe being affected by changing only the top bolts, has anyone measured it before and after?
I don't want to run more camber on the street mainly because of the winter time, but don't want to keep getting an alignment before and after the track either.

I know that aftermarket camber bolts change the toe completely because the washer is only positioned in one side of the strut.
 
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