GR Yaris The EcuTek thread

Onehp

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However LM has apparently found a way of increasing power near the redline. With better control of boost, timing, cams, injectors, they maybe found an additional 20hp near redline.
Must add, also ACME (source @p3.auto ;) ) and Whifbitz seem to be finding similar more peak power, so maybe it is EcuTek enabling this or just different tuning strategies, don't know.

Looking forward to logs and driveability reports on this new release....
 
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warren_RS3

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I've just been out to do some driving and post some logs back to Litchfield. I'm going to be brief for now as I want to wait for the files to be reviewed and checked before I read too much into anything. Outside temp was 11 degrees celsius.

1) I did some pulls in 3rd and 4th from 2,000rpm to see how the car would behave. In 3rd it takes a moment to find it's feet and get going, but once it does it flies up the rev counter. 4th was a lot more laboured before it got going and I got the sense that the clutch was protesting a bit so I only did this once.

2) Repeated runs didn't seem to phase it in the way that other cars I've had in the past have suffered, particuarly without an upgraded IC. I never got a sense that the car was holding back.

3) The boost limit on the RACEROM seems to max out at 2.5 bar in map 3 (Race/99RON). The boost pressure actual was reporting in kPa, so unfortunately it's not a like for like, but the highest value I saw polled was 281 (40.83psi by conversion) which I assume needs to be adjusted for atmospheric pressure.

4) Timing doesn't look excessively advanced, with very little correction. Oil temps were stable as you'd expect for road use.

5) The max turbocharger IAT logged was 27 degrees during the runs, so whilst it's fairly cool outside today, I'm not panicking that I need an uprated intercooler yesterday

6) With just a driver it feels suitably quick, perfectly adequate for my needs of this car, and suitably improved from the standard map I had. The car has only done 3996 miles so it's not fully run in, and of the miles it's done these were the hardest 20 miles of it's life. The biggest issue was finding a suitably clear piece of road to manage the pull from 2,000rpm to 7,200rpm as even in third that equates to severe risk for your licence!

I appreciate the above is largely meaningless without seeing peak loads, recovery rates etc. but it's an indicator of some of the key headlines. Out of respect to Litchfield I want them to have the chance to review my data logs and amend if necessary before I post anything more public about the wider map files. I'm sure you'll all understand it's nothing personal, purely professional courtesy to them.

And finally. The headline figures I genuinely don't give a sh*t about. The numbers I care about are the ones that cause damage and leave me at the side of the road with a 5 figure bill. Anyone can write a map, draw a curve, lose their mind about peak numbers, but for me that's not what it's about. It's about drivability, repeatability, reliability and peace of mind. Yes, it needs to be quick, but I'm not one of those ego led folk who goes hunting for number and pride. I think this feels like a really solid product, and worth the money, so read into that what you will. It's better than the basic stage 1 maps that went before it. After 25 years I got bored of people quoting decimal place bhp figures or tuner wars, and just want an honest product with a really solid support network backing it; job done!
 
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p3.auto

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MPS did 400hp already more then 2 years ago on full decat. Stock turbo and intake, aftermarket IC.

One could say the same for the whole tuning scene. Most tuning doesn't hold for 24h endurance races. It's for top trumps at the bar or on Dragy. Others just enjoy a little extra butterflies when pressing the loud pedal occasionally.

Personally, I'm at 310hp/400Nm now roughly, I would like the (hopefully) better driveability of a decent remap and I do enjoy a little rush to the redline (which I miss on most turbo cars...). Don't track so I would be fine with 340hp+ top end if it's reliable for fun drives...

It’s not even as extreme as endurance racing, even 20 minutes on a track will heatsoak and then issues will appear if there are any. I’m yet to see anyone running one of these big power claimed tunes actually pushing their cars. I could say my car is 500hp, it might only make it once 😂 I wouldn’t tell everyone it’s a 500hp car though.

Most MPS cars have upgraded turbos for 400+. If 400 was achievable reliably long term then why sell the turbos?

Just because it’s possible, doesn’t mean you should
 

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Onehp

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Just because it’s possible, doesn’t mean you should
You are of course correct.

Your 400hp will be much more trackable then that 380hp on a original turbo. Just as my 310hp with most bolt ons will completely lose a stage 1 car with whatever power on anything resembling a track.

Better hardware and cooling upgrades are very unsexy without any headline hp improvements. That said, there is still a place for peak power outside of track use. As long as one understands that...
 

Onehp

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3) The boost limit on the RACEROM seems to max out at 2.5 bar in map 3 (Race/99RON). The boost pressure actual was reporting in kPa, so unfortunately it's not a like for like, but the highest value I saw polled was 281 (40.83psi by conversion) which I assume needs to be adjusted for atmospheric pressure.

Thanks for the first impressions. So you get 3 mappings as standard? What are the other two?

100kPa = 1bar so easy conversion. And usually these are reported as absolute pressure, so 2.5bar means 1,5bar "boost" as atmospheric is close enough to 1 bar. 281 looks like a possible little spike then, duration will determine if it needs amended as a overboost or it just a little signal spike.
 

p3.auto

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I've just been out to do some driving and post some logs back to Litchfield. I'm going to be brief for now as I want to wait for the files to be reviewed and checked before I read too much into anything. Outside temp was 11 degrees celsius.

1) I did some pulls in 3rd and 4th from 2,000rpm to see how the car would behave. In 3rd it takes a moment to find it's feet and get going, but once it does it flies up the rev counter. 4th was a lot more laboured before it got going and I got the sense that the clutch was protesting a bit so I only did this once.

2) Repeated runs didn't seem to phase it in the way that other cars I've had in the past have suffered, particuarly without an upgraded IC. I never got a sense that the car was holding back.

3) The boost limit on the RACEROM seems to max out at 2.5 bar in map 3 (Race/99RON). The boost pressure actual was reporting in kPa, so unfortunately it's not a like for like, but the highest value I saw polled was 281 (40.83psi by conversion) which I assume needs to be adjusted for atmospheric pressure.

4) Timing doesn't look excessively advanced, with very little correction. Oil temps were stable as you'd expect for road use.

5) The max turbocharger IAT logged was 27 degrees during the runs, so whilst it's fairly cool outside today, I'm not panicking that I need an uprated intercooler yesterday

6) With just a driver it feels suitably quick, perfectly adequate for my needs of this car, and suitably improved from the standard map I had. The car has only done 3996 miles so it's not fully run in, and of the miles it's done these were the hardest 20 miles of it's life. The biggest issue was finding a suitably clear piece of road to manage the pull from 2,000rpm to 7,200rpm as even in third that equates to severe risk for your licence!

I appreciate the above is largely meaningless without seeing peak loads, recovery rates etc. but it's an indicator of some of the key headlines. Out of respect to Litchfield I want them to have the chance to review my data logs and amend if necessary before I post anything more public about the wider map files. I'm sure you'll all understand it's nothing personal, purely professional courtesy to them.

281kpa is 2.8bar and as the value is absolute, an ambient value of 0.9-1.1bar would give about 1.8-1.9bar boost. Which seems about right. When I say a 2bar MAP I mean relative, so inc ambient pressure that’s a max of 3bar. 1.5bar is low for their “race” map, I’d expect that above 6krpm but for peak torque you’d likely be 1.8-1.9bar up to about 5500rpm

Timing not being very advanced would likely just be them playing it safe, they’ll take the logs away, add a few more degrees and ask you to do more runs. Would expect there’s more to come.

IAT’s look decent. Been meaning to enclose my filter for a while, now I have the ADU5 I can watch temps live and it’s always so warm in there even on the move.

Also don’t make a habit of going WOT at low rpm in a high gear. Matteo told me off for that, it’s a recipe for disaster on GDI engines.
 

warren_RS3

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Apr 20, 2022
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Thanks for the first impressions. So you get 3 mappings as standard? What are the other two?

100kPa = 1bar so easy conversion. And usually these are reported as absolute pressure, so 2.5bar means 1,5bar "boost" as atmospheric is close enough to 1 bar. 281 looks like a possible little spike then, duration will determine if it needs amended as a overboost or it just a little signal spike.
I think map 1 is 95RON, 2 is 97RON, 3 is 99RON
 
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warren_RS3

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IAT’s look decent. Been meaning to enclose my filter for a while, now I have the ADU5 I can watch temps live and it’s always so warm in there even on the move.

Also don’t make a habit of going WOT at low rpm in a high gear. Matteo told me off for that, it’s a recipe for disaster on GDI engines.
I have standard airbox, ITG panel filter and Forge twin intake thing. I had nightmares on a previous car with the MAF misreading as the CAI system had a larger pipe and the offset in the intake pipe and increased diameter sent the maf into meltdown with scaling issues! As I'm keeping on std turbo I just thought keep it simple.

The WOT runs felt horribly unkind and unappreciated by it so won't be repeated unless absolutely necessary!
 
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p3.auto

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I have standard airbox, ITG panel filter and Forge twin intake thing. I had nightmares on a previous car with the MAF misreading as the CAI system had a larger pipe and the offset and increased diameter sent the maf into meltdown! As I'm keeping on std turbo I just thought keep it simple.

The WOT runs felt horribly unkind and unappreciated by it so won't be repeated unless absolutely necessary!

I have a custom carbon intake I made that’s basically just a 6” opening with a massive filter that tapers down to 3” behind the engine. Looks cool but even with massive bonnet vents it sucks up lots of lovely warm air

When you’re doing logs the WOT pulls are fine as you’ll have someone monitoring and tweaking timing but for everyday stuff all it takes is some bad fuel and you’re inviting a massive knock event and then you’ll need a new engine. I’ve always preferred tuning to avoid knock rather than relying on sensors to pull timing
 

Onehp

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1.5bar is low for their “race” map, I’d expect that above 6krpm but for peak torque you’d likely be 1.8-1.9bar up to about 5500rpm
Stage 2 is only running 300-310 lbsft so 1,5bar would actually suffice for that?
 

p3.auto

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Stage 2 is only running 300-310 lbsft so 1,5bar would actually suffice for that?

Sorry I’ve completely missed what even the target of the map was. I’m just accustomed to the term “race” map being up at 1.8-1.9bar
 
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Sekred

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I have standard airbox, ITG panel filter and Forge twin intake thing. I had nightmares on a previous car with the MAF misreading as the CAI system had a larger pipe and the offset in the intake pipe and increased diameter sent the maf into meltdown with scaling issues! As I'm keeping on std turbo I just thought keep it simple.

The WOT runs felt horribly unkind and unappreciated by it so won't be repeated unless absolutely necessary!
With the Motec I never go WOT under 2500rpm. Always always listen for knock.
 

Onehp

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. It's about drivability, repeatability, reliability and peace of mind.
Amen to that. And thanks for providing data and impressions here, I'm looking from afar and looking for a product that has been developed over many iteriations, learning the car and map intricaties over many dyno runs but also hopefully many road miles with development cars. The value of one single field can make the difference between a great map and one that will destroy your car...

With remote mapping from ecutek this much widens the horison for finding such providers.

You mentioned you could see the boost safety on racerom. What else can you see there? Is there possibility to make any own settings? I've seen it on other platforms but haven't seen the UI for our cars....
 

warren_RS3

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Amen to that. And thanks for providing data and impressions here, I'm looking from afar and looking for a product that has been developed over many iteriations, learning the car and map intricaties over many dyno runs but also hopefully many road miles with development cars. The value of one single field can make the difference between a great map and one that will destroy your car...

With remote mapping from ecutek this much widens the horison for finding such providers.

You mentioned you could see the boost safety on racerom. What else can you see there? Is there possibility to make any own settings? I've seen it on other platforms but haven't seen the UI for our cars....
1714380151299.png


Not sure how well the above will come up on screen, but there is a line extract from a 0.1 sec log.

The beauty of this for me is the incremental data log knowledge base. Every customers log files submitted back to EcuTek will build a holistic database of performance characteristics according to modification, age, wear & tear, climatic conditions, fuel types, so as the cumulative data builds the learnings will develop and better map iterations can be released. Normally for generic tunes maps are developed off of a couple of cars and then that's what you get. And it's incredibly unlikely you ever get a revision update or the chance to reload your map without return to a dealer. FOr a generalist who doesn't want a standalone ECU like Syvecs and just wants a really solid fast road car I can't currently see anything better on the market, and selfishly I don't think the affiliation to the Litchfield brand dents the future appeal or value of the car significantly should ever I look to move it on.
 
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Sekred

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View attachment 27448

Not sure how well the above will come up on screen, but there is a line extract from a 0.1 sec log.

The beauty of this for me is the incremental data log knowledge base. Every customers log files submitted back to EcuTek will build a holistic database of performance characteristics according to modification, age, wear & tear, climatic conditions, fuel types, so as the cumulative data builds the learnings will develop and better map iterations can be released. Normally for generic tunes maps are developed off of a couple of cars and then that's what you get. And it's incredibly unlikely you ever get a revision update or the chance to reload your map without return to a dealer. FOr a generalist who doesn't want a standalone ECU like Syvecs and just wants a really solid fast road car I can't currently see anything better on the market, and selfishly I don't think the affiliation to the Litchfield brand dents the future appeal or value of the car significantly should ever I look to move it o

"Not sure how well the above will come up on screen, but there is a line extract from a 0.1 sec log."

No Problem.

Lappy.jpg
 

p3.auto

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View attachment 27448

Not sure how well the above will come up on screen, but there is a line extract from a 0.1 sec log.

The beauty of this for me is the incremental data log knowledge base. Every customers log files submitted back to EcuTek will build a holistic database of performance characteristics according to modification, age, wear & tear, climatic conditions, fuel types, so as the cumulative data builds the learnings will develop and better map iterations can be released. Normally for generic tunes maps are developed off of a couple of cars and then that's what you get. And it's incredibly unlikely you ever get a revision update or the chance to reload your map without return to a dealer. FOr a generalist who doesn't want a standalone ECU like Syvecs and just wants a really solid fast road car I can't currently see anything better on the market, and selfishly I don't think the affiliation to the Litchfield brand dents the future appeal or value of the car significantly should ever I look to move it on.

Yeah, a hive mind of logs and feedback is good assuming the data is being stored centrally and not just at Lichfield but even if kept locally it’ll help develop their own maps. Would imagine it’s being fed back to Ecutek too though.

Ongoing development is the big one for me. Litchfield are charging a lot of money for the mapping, as do ACME. It becomes much better value when there’s aftercare as opposed to paying £600 for a tune and being told to f**k off afterwards
 

Onehp

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I am very interested in it actually ( LSPI and Knock)

If you look at current designs and I am referring to capacity of around 1.5 to 2.0 the trend is under squared meaning the Stroke exceeds the Bore.
Subaru engines are stilled over squared looking at the 2.4 WRX.
I am thinking the smaller combustion chamber reduces the chance of LSPI and knock. I am not an engineer so I maybe completely off here.
Out of interest, with the Motec I have peak boost pressure ( around 23-24psi ) by 3000 rpm.
Sorry to get off track.
Discussion continues here

 
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GJR

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I chose Litchfield because they were the only ones that talked about drivability. They never try to up sell me stuff I don’t need and offer straight honest advice. They could easily tell me I must have x,y or z but they don’t. They listen to how I use the car and in most cases tell me I don’t need that unless I do this or use it on track etc.

Now the remap. I had the remap in January and it was done on the dyno. I have been very happy with the work and the after sales advice. When the new firmware was released it was good to see that they were offering a lower price to existing Litchfield customers who had the remap. I think that speaks volumes about them. They charge good money but provide a good service. I am confident you will get the best rounded product from them. Others may offer more power etc but the Litchfield one in my opinion will work really well and retain the drivability. Mine is booked in for June to be done on the dyno.