GR Yaris Humpty's GRY

Humptydumptyhadabigone

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Dec 17, 2021
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I didn't get around to posting much on the other site (different user name because...) as I was late on the scene but having eschewed that place might as well kick off here.

A mate and I built a track toy from a Fiesta, known here as an XR4 and in the UK as an ST150. Loads of fun but with stock engine very slow. Still good to let others drive because I suspect it is nearly unbreakable and with a full cage nice and solid. My daily at the time was an M2C which was obviously faster but the risk was $$$$ if I binned it. Anyways ended up selling the M2 and was looking for something to drive to the track, on the track and home after without needing a trailer and stealing the wife's 4wd.

A Focus RS was high on the list but other things were options, i30N, Type R etc.

A mate suggested the GRY which was very much an unknown and the expected performance wasn't really that interesting. Then Toyo Oz came up with an offer of $40k drive away subject to test drive on the standard model. Just drop $950 as a deposit. So I did that. Then the reviews started appearing and it seemed like a good thing. I have done off road racing (the weird stuff in buggies) and the rally focus was a definite plus as there are many many km of gravel around.

A month or so later I had the test drive. Arranged to have the car for about 2.5 hours and drove some back roads near me. Couldn't stop laughing it was such a ball of fun. Standard Dunlops were rubbish of course but tyres are an easy fix.

Then a few weeks later I took delivery (a bit lucky but that is another story) and drove away with a new GRY on Dec 30th so it is nearly a year old.

Prior to delivery I ordered some Oz Racing wheels and Yoko AD08R tyres and these were ready to swap over on the way home from the dealer. The stock wheels were then shod with Toyo R888R for track duties. All in stock sizes because then there was so little real information about going wider. Still happy with that choice.





Didn't weigh the wheels but they are heaps lighter than the stock Enkeis with the Toyos.

We had heaps of rain and it became obvious that the flanks were going to get blasted on the gravel so I grabbed some mud flap material and made some mudflaps.

Not so much modding and mostly it will stay stock in the driveline but things to date:

I plastidipped the stock wheels to see what they would look like white. Only two though so one side was black and the other white...




Back to black now. I like white but not if it is a different white to the car.

Next step was a strut brace and catch can.




Did some base line sprint runs and with green Toyos it was faster than the M2C.

A very wet sprint proved how much fun you can have in Sport mode with semis.



Fire extinguisher and tow points went in as did a bracket for the transponder on the number plate frame at the back. I drilled the front tow point cover and the bolt passes through the factory plastic. I bought a spare cover just in case. The tow points are nominally not legal to leave on all the time but so far no issues with the boys in blue.



Fitted some MCA reds with custom valving and spring rates and very happy with the compromise, stiffer damper and softer springs... Initially I had on order some HKS suspension but somehow the spring rates were screwed up and the rear would have been way too stiff so I walked away and fitted the MCAs.

Dropped the ride height about 25/30mm and found the front was now vulnerable to parking kerbs etc so I put a Flow Designs splitter on as a bump stop. Works goodly. Front springs are 7kg while rears are 9kg, damping is about 10% stiffer than 'usual' red spec. Run the dampers at 1 off softest settings on the road and 3/4 front and 6/7 rear for sprints depending on how rough the track is. -3 front camber, -2 (ish with stock setup) rear and +1mm -1mm front and rear toe. Had the rear at +1 initially but the car was very nervous on the highway and got a bit exciting on the cold tracks. With sprints you start from cold and run for anything from 35 to 70 seconds (600m - 1500m) so you can't rely on tyre pressures and heat through the lap and have to compromise somewhat.



Next was the Alltype inlet which I insulated before fitting. Interesting sounds and the wife still gets surprised when the car farts.



I want to do something with the exhaust, just to give the car a bit of character but so far haven't really heard anything I like. Hopeful that the Xforce system might do it but haven't heard that in person yet. I found the exhausts sound very different in person and the videos on the web can be misleading.

I intend to keep the engine unmapped and just see where I can get to with times. I am not chasing outright victories or class victories because I am up against some serious gear (900hp R35s and time attack evo VII etc). Though it did bag a 1st, two 2nds and a 3rd in awd class last year.



It is so nice to swap tyres at home, drive to the sprint track, have a day or weekend of fun and then drive home though the noise from the Toyos after a track day is worse than any muddies I have run on a 4wd...
There is a factory Torson diff ready to go in after Christmas and some braided brake lines. Might give the calipers a coat of red at the same time though probably put Advics stickers on rather than be a Rallye try hard with GR stickers. TBA...



The car has about 13,000 km in a year and I enjoy driving it, one or two up. Enough room for a gazebo and stuff in the back for track days. Don't think I will be selling it any time soon.
 
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GRgrampa

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Dec 18, 2021
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Good write up and some greats pictures too.
Are your AD08's the R version and if so, how do you find they compare to the earlier non R's?
 

Humptydumptyhadabigone

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Dec 17, 2021
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Good write up and some greats pictures too.
Are your AD08's the R version and if so, how do you find they compare to the earlier non R's?
R version and no idea, first Yoko tyres I have run on a car. M2 had PS4S and I thought they were a great tyre. We ran Kumho V720 on our Mazda 2 and if the V730 was available here I probably would have gone for those. I guess the Yokos have about half tread left? Hard to tell because the Toyos have about 2,000km of the distance the car has done. So that decision is about a year off and same for the Toyos. Guys running the 050s (?) find they are very camber sensitive.
 
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GRgrampa

Totally Hooked
Dec 18, 2021
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Thanks for the feedback. I've used AD08's on some of my DD's and they were great. The R versions have been getting some negative responses over here when compared to the older versions so have avoided them so far. I tend to use R888R's on track and apart from the noise like you mentioned, I find them great.
 

Humptydumptyhadabigone

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Around midnight last night we had a couple of storms roll through. Big enough and bad enough for hail warnings from the Bureau of Meteorology. GR was out in the yard (there is a fair bit to choose from) while #1 rebuilt the front end of his live axle 4wd. Carport was a mess with the detritus of the job not yet cleaned up but the risk of a carbon roof and hail got me to move the car(s) under cover.

Drove back to the carport which involves passing between a couple of young ish trees about 3m high (some Grevillia robusta and Corymbia citriodora if you are interested) and a yellow light started flashing on the dash, one I haven't seen before or recognised. In my tired fug and falling rain I just put the car away and ignored it. Checked the manual... ahhhh. The "impending doom, you are about to die (collision warning) light. Good I haven't seen that before though I have poked the car up between these trees many times. Guessing it was a combination of rain, slippery grass, velocity and yaw.
 
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GRunt

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Feb 17, 2022
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May I ask why did you fit that catch can? I can see direct benefit on GDI engine, but this is dual injected. So what is the catch can for, if not to reduce carbon build up? 🤔
 

Humptydumptyhadabigone

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May I ask why did you fit that catch can? I can see direct benefit on GDI engine, but this is dual injected. So what is the catch can for, if not to reduce carbon build up? 🤔
Yes the motor is dual injected, yes it has a factory oil separator. The catch can still catches oil. The oil will still gum up the intake. I fit catch cans on all boosted engines. No biggie. Up to you if you do or don't.
 

GRunt

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Understood. And why are you limiting it on boosted engines? On a naturally aspirated engine with direct injection would also be a build-up of carbon deposits, wouldn't it? Or are NA GDI engines less prone to this issue?
 

Humptydumptyhadabigone

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Understood. And why are you limiting it on boosted engines? On a naturally aspirated engine with direct injection would also be a build-up of carbon deposits, wouldn't it? Or are NA GDI engines less prone to this issue?
I don't got any? Less blowby in an NA engine. We have a can on the xr4/st150 track car and that stays clean but does very few km, also not DI. The gry is pretty highly strung.

I put a can on my 150 series Prado from new, yes it is a diesel but the 1kd is known for crapping up its intake. Just fitted new injectors at 200,000km after deciding to keep it for a few more years (lack of better options for us) and I expected the nasty job of cleaning the intake but it was clean, almost like new. Same for an Isuzu we had with the 4JJ. I put a can on my M2 as well. BM said it was unnecessary. Ok but why is there oil in it???

Toyota Oz is pretty down on catch cans and there are a couple of reported cases of warranty being denied but who knows the full story, anyway no comment on this and it has been there for every service. My dealer has had nothing to say about mods other than one tech asking where I bought the intake...

Turbo engines that are only directed injected seem to be particularly bad for carbon gumming up the inlets as you would know. I seem to recall reading the new Chevy DI engines are bad too, no idea, I did have oil caught in the lsa can but it was punching out some good numbers.
 
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GRunt

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okay thanks for explanation. Engines seem to react extremely different to that topic. In Germany the TSI/TFSI engines are known to be very prone in the past. But other turbo charged engines from other manufactures have far less problems with it. Anyway, good drive!
 

Humptydumptyhadabigone

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The Schroth QuickFit Pro arrived from the US today. SR18662 which is right hand side and red colour, red to match my blood. Bought from ECS Tuning who did a good job sorting out shipping and getting it down from a crazy $300 or so USD to $56. No how tos. It is very easy to fit and took about an hour. Most of that was working out I had to be rougher on the seat base to get it out. And finding the 14mm ratchet spanner that was under the bonnet of #1's Patrol ute which has a dead turbo.

As this is not made for the GRY and Schroth will not make recommendations for a car they haven't tested etc etc it is 100% up to you if you decide to fit one. The design is for a Mk VI (?) Golf and Audi things and has antisubmarining incorporated into the design, the left belt webbing splits to allow the body to pivot as if you were wearing a lap sash belt.

It is very nice and holds me nice and snug, not as good as a 6 point but way better than I expected from a 4 point. And significantly better than the factory belts. Best of all there is little left once the harness is unclipped and put away so the car can be used on the road.

And this is it. Plenty of adjustment. This is set for me at 181cm and 90kg, no selfie because I have a rule that when I use the hans device I don't wear pants and no one wants to see that.



Rear belts held by the new tab on the outside (see below pic) and the inner for the rear belt.


The tab on the outside is held by the lower bolt of the standard seatbelt


Completely out of the way when tucked in beside the seat frame


The rear also uses the lower bolt of the standard belt and tucks in behind the belt.


And a big box with a remote controlled noisy pipe has arrived. Just need to negotiate a couple of hours hoist time at my mate's workshop.
 

Humptydumptyhadabigone

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Dec 17, 2021
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A bit of an update and feedback...

I fitted the xforce exhaust and the usual comments apply about legalities etc etc.

Overall quite happy though it is heavier than the stock exhaust, the xforce is about what I expected and then found how light the factory system is. Installation is easy and the only change I might make is to grab some stronger hangers because the rear muffler does bounce around a bit. At the moment I have only run the cable as bought and plugged it into the 12V socket but I have a switch and relay to do a neater job when I get a few hours to myself.

In quiet mode the exhaust is almost soundless on a steady cruise and under 3,500rpm. Open the throttle or run the engine to redline and you can hear it. I thought my dealer had switched the artificial noise off and initially there was some booming in the under heavy throttle. When I checked the noise was still on and I reset that and now no booming and no droning. Open the valve and it does drone at highway speeds and is too loud for me. But it only gets opened at the track.

Wrapped the pipe near the rear diff...



And from the back stock looking.



First track day since fitting the exhaust and getting the harness. Had some good feedback on how nice the exhaust sounds (open valve) on the track and how civilised it was driving around with the valve closed.

The harness was great. Took a few laps to get the adjustment right but overall it pulls you into the seat and while it isn't a 6 point harness it is way better than the stock belt. We had our XR4 (ST150) at the track day and I did a few laps in that too as a direct comparison. Like I said it will never be the same as a dedicated racing seat with 6 point harness but it is more than enough for the sprints that I do. Oh and for anyone interested the GR was 4 secs faster on the same track in a lap of under a minute. My time was 55s and the best the XR4 did was high 58s, I managed a 59s flat but the transition was very hard to manage, grip and power not so much but the brakes were a league apart.

For anyone interested this was the layout we used. Blue then yellow then red. Hard to tell but there is a steep climb of 15m or so off the start and then off camber down to the skid pan. All on purpose as it is a driver training set up.



Orange dots are where there isn't enough of 2nd gear left and the red dot was where I took the first corner a wee bit hard and the limiter kicked in and well I left the black stuff at that point. Slowed gently on the grass and drove straight back to the pits with my tail between my legs.
 
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Humptydumptyhadabigone

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I had a request by pm to measure where the towing hook penetration is at the front. Just in case this is of use to others here are the pics and information.

When I did mine I took rough dimensions and drilled a 12mm diameter hole. Then adjusted that to line up with the centre of the thread for the eye. I was out about 5mm from memory. Enlarged the hole with the step drill and went back and forth until the hole was centred. I would suggest doing the same here. Start with a 12mm or so diameter hole and position it 118mm from the right edge and 57mm from the top. Accuracy of measuring will vary as will the perspective of the photos so be cautious. Adjust that hole to suit where the threaded hole is. I used a step drill to go out to 35mm diameter but as you can see that is bigger than it needs to be.

Pics are lousy but close enough to start the process.





Hope this helps.

PS: I did learn that you can take photos on the phone using your nose to aggress upon the button.
 

Michael Knight

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Dec 7, 2021
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Yes the motor is dual injected, yes it has a factory oil separator. The catch can still catches oil. The oil will still gum up the intake. I fit catch cans on all boosted engines. No biggie. Up to you if you do or don't.
I checked the intake runners at 15tkm - quite clean as baby's butt.. can do the check again (have completed 32tkm now) but I believe intake buildup is not that big issue with this car thanks to the fact that it has both the traditional and direct injection.
 

GRandemakina

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Sep 19, 2022
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Being (also) port-injected I would expect that the intake valves shouldn't be gummed-up...
On the other hand, any oil vapours in the combustion chamber could increase the likelihood of pre-ignition - the combination of high-compression + direct injection + boost are "risk factors" already... :rolleyes:
In my mind, a catch-can may not be a bad call...
 

Humptydumptyhadabigone

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Dec 17, 2021
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Brisbane, Australia
No where really to post this so here will do. Not GRY news or GR news. We do a bit of off grid camping and have a light off road camper for beach camping. Decided to go for a new camper that will do this and also winter runs out west. While not europe temps I am over the tent based camper and an ensuite in a separate tent when we are camping at -2C or so. Thus 18 months ago we ordered a new beastie that is also light weight though not in the same league but has a solid body and ensuite. Did some bush camping testing to determine battery and solar performance and was happy with the result.

Bush camping in Queensland gets you a lot of locals who want to come and have a look around the camp. As you guys are about to head into winter thought you might like to see a King parrot checking out the accommodations...



These guys are not timid and will happily eat peanuts out of your hand. Testing the odd finger in case it is a big peanut.
 
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