GR86 Focal 2 way component OEM retrofit

I had to check! Without actually starting the engine - I prefer not to do that unless actually going somewhere. In accessory mode, head unit starts up and works as normal, but I get no audio. In ignition mode, but engine not running, audio starts after about a second or two.

Turning ignition off, it all shuts down, screen off, sound off. All without touching the door. I don't know if running the engine makes a difference, I don't think it does. At the moment, I won't be using the car until Friday evening, so I will check again then.

One point of difference in my car. I have a subwoofer attached to the Puzu. That is powered from the fuse box (as per the sub instructions) and is powered up using the blue cable from the Puzu (again as per instructions). Audio goes to the sub from the Puzu via a RCA cable. The sub powers up only in ignition mode.

Seems that my Puzu could be different from others? Or I have set it differently? I suspect another read of the badly translated instructions in on the cards for me!
 
I had to check! Without actually starting the engine - I prefer not to do that unless actually going somewhere. In accessory mode, head unit starts up and works as normal, but I get no audio. In ignition mode, but engine not running, audio starts after about a second or two.

Turning ignition off, it all shuts down, screen off, sound off. All without touching the door. I don't know if running the engine makes a difference, I don't think it does. At the moment, I won't be using the car until Friday evening, so I will check again then.

One point of difference in my car. I have a subwoofer attached to the Puzu. That is powered from the fuse box (as per the sub instructions) and is powered up using the blue cable from the Puzu (again as per instructions). Audio goes to the sub from the Puzu via a RCA cable. The sub powers up only in ignition mode.

Seems that my Puzu could be different from others? Or I have set it differently? I suspect another read of the badly translated instructions in on the cards for me!
Mine has sound (radio) immediately I turn accessory on, so definitely you have something wired differently.
 
It is slow to come on with audio generally, PUZU or not. Especially if you've been USB/ Android Auto the last time and you've turned it on so defaults back to radio.
 
I had to check! Without actually starting the engine - I prefer not to do that unless actually going somewhere. In accessory mode, head unit starts up and works as normal, but I get no audio. In ignition mode, but engine not running, audio starts after about a second or two.

Turning ignition off, it all shuts down, screen off, sound off. All without touching the door. I don't know if running the engine makes a difference, I don't think it does. At the moment, I won't be using the car until Friday evening, so I will check again then.

One point of difference in my car. I have a subwoofer attached to the Puzu. That is powered from the fuse box (as per the sub instructions) and is powered up using the blue cable from the Puzu (again as per instructions). Audio goes to the sub from the Puzu via a RCA cable. The sub powers up only in ignition mode.

Seems that my Puzu could be different from others? Or I have set it differently? I suspect another read of the badly translated instructions in on the cards for me!
I just ordered the Puzu but haven’t received it yet. But I checked out the manual and the Puzu has a hardware toggle switch to switch between HOST and ACC which might be worth a try?
 

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I just ordered the Puzu but haven’t received it yet. But I checked out the manual and the Puzu has a hardware toggle switch to switch between HOST and ACC which might be worth a try?
Thank you @Dustoff74 I checked the instructions last night and I expect that's it. Need to pull the dash apart to check it. Probably cannot do that for a couple of weeks as visiting family this weekend.

My recollection from installing it is that it worked in one position and didn't work in the other. Does anyone know which position theirs is set in?
 
So here's my update on this. Removing the 2 grills on the dash was straight forward enough. Then came the difficult part, trying to remove the tweeter by pressing the small white clip. I found it impossible as the clip is just too small to use your finger (and that plastic trim in the 4th pic is in the way so you cant get your finger in position to press the clip anyway) . Also the fact that there is no space to turn the grill upside down, as its so close to the windscreen, doesn't make this easy to see everything.

So the way we did was to try and lever out the tweeter from the grill first. I used a small trim remover, slid it in between the tweeter and the plastic casing of the grill and then rotated slightly. If you're lucky it will pop out enough to grab hold an pull. Once the tweeter is free, you can move the grill out the way and you then have so much more room to play with. Then get a second person, one pushes the white release clip with the small trim remover or flat screwdriver, the other can then use a second trim remover to lever out the white adapter. Easy Peasy.

Replacing the old with the new is straight forward enough but rather than trying to connect the new cable to the old, then trying to fit the tweeter into the grill, start with fitting into the grill first, and then just connect the cable. Push the existing cable as far into the dash as you can and if you manoeuvre the new cable enough you can then reseat the grills back into the dash.

Has it improved the sound quality.. absolutely. Everything is so much clearer now and if you could just buy the tweeters and fit i honestly think for most people this would suffice (if you didn't want to bother with the door. ) . Which leads me to the main door speakers...

Op wasn't wrong when he said "be brave". We tried 4/5 times and the door trim was not unclipping, so we gave up.. for now. The weather is pretty cold here at the moment and so we are going to wait till the summer once the garage has warmed up and then give it another go and the extra heat might just make it a little easier. We have watched other YT vids and they either yank it out near the door hinge, or they use a wide trim remover piece placed near the door pins to leverage out . I think this is what we will try and do when the time is right.
 
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Thank you @Dustoff74 I checked the instructions last night and I expect that's it. Need to pull the dash apart to check it. Probably cannot do that for a couple of weeks as visiting family this weekend.

My recollection from installing it is that it worked in one position and didn't work in the other. Does anyone know which position theirs is set in?
Just to confirm, it was this switch. Its now working exactly as others have described. Audio starts with ignition at Accessory and after engine has run, switches off once the door is opened. Thanks all!
 
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So here's my update on this. Removing the 2 grills on the dash was straight forward enough. Then came the difficult part, trying to remove the tweeter by pressing the small white clip. I found it impossible as the clip is just too small to use your finger (and that plastic trim in the 4th pic is in the way so you cant get your finger in position to press the clip anyway) . Also the fact that there is no space to turn the grill upside down, as its so close to the windscreen, doesn't make this easy to see everything.

So the way we did was to try and lever out the tweeter from the grill first. I used a small trim remover, slid it in between the tweeter and the plastic casing of the grill and then rotated slightly. If you're lucky it will pop out enough to grab hold an pull. Once the tweeter is free, you can move the grill out the way and you then have so much more room to play with. Then get a second person, one pushes the white release clip with the small trim remover or flat screwdriver, the other can then use a second trim remover to lever out the white adapter. Easy Peasy.

Replacing the old with the new is straight forward enough but rather than trying to connect the new cable to the old, then trying to fit the tweeter into the grill, start with fitting into the grill first, and then just connect the cable. Push the existing cable as far into the dash as you can and if you manoeuvre the new cable enough you can then reseat the grills back into the dash.

Has it improved the sound quality.. absolutely. Everything is so much clearer now and if you could just buy the tweeters and fit i honestly think for most people this would suffice (if you didn't want to bother with the door. ) . Which leads me to the main door speakers...

Op wasn't wrong when he said "be brave". We tried 4/5 times and the door trim was not unclipping, so we gave up.. for now. The weather is pretty cold here at the moment and so we are going to wait till the summer once the garage has warmed up and then give it another go and the extra heat might just make it a little easier. We have watched other YT vids and they either yank it out near the door hinge, or they use a wide trim remover piece placed near the door pins to leverage out . I think this is what we will try and do when the time is right.

Yeah, I seem to remember the tweeter clip was quite tight - but like you say about the clips in winter, the current weather isn't going to help one little bit! The door card near the hinge where you can get your fingers behind is where I tend to start. More than one time I tried to do that before I got all the screws out which didn't help at all!
 
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Yeah, I seem to remember the tweeter clip was quite tight - but like you say about the clips in winter, the current weather isn't going to help one little bit! The door card near the hinge where you can get your fingers behind is where I tend to start. More than one time I tried to do that before I got all the screws out which didn't help at all!
Ha - yeh defo make sure you do this first!
 
Hi all

Ok I've had a play around with time delays, remeasured and created a new set of filters which allow for the delays. I've also applied EQ to the rear speakers and adjusted the gain on these.

I've targeted the Harman curve, so this gives a pretty balanced tonality overall with a bit of a boost in the low end. If you're a real basshead, you might prefer a bit more in the bottom.

Puzu file, screenshots and the REW measurements, for those interested, all in the zip at the link attached. Enjoy

Car2.zip

PS The password is the model name of our favourite motor vehicle
Thanks very much for taking the time out to do this and sharing the results. This has saved me an awful lot of time and agro - plus I an pretty sure I couldn't have set it up quite so well.

With the addition of some Focals and a finely tuned DSP, I now have a system that is not too shabby at all. Now I just need to add a sub to finish things off :unsure:

Sterling work sir! 👋
 
Hey Guys,
I've asked on another for for some sound improvements and was reverted here. Quite a nice wrap up, glad, we only need 4 speakers to make a difference... Can't deny, I was bit bummed of seeing, that our cars although in highest trim level, are shipped with base speakers :(
Bummed

Ordered Focal 165, as well as PPF foil as per this fella



Also getting some thin 2mm butyl mats, just for the sake of removing OEM plastic sheet, replacing small parts with PPF and bigger ones with the mat + something, essentially replicating the above but being more conservative on weight levels. I simply want to make it sound better, I like the rawness and characteristics of this car :)
 
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Hey Guys,
I've asked on another for for some sound improvements and was reverted here. Quite a nice wrap up, glad, we only need 4 speakers to make a difference... Can't deny, I was bit bummed of seeing, that our cars although in highest trim level, are shipped with base speakers :(
Bummed

Ordered Focal 165, as well as PPF foil as per this fella



Also getting some thin 2mm butyl mats, just for the sake of removing OEM plastic sheet, replacing small parts with PPF and bigger ones with the mat + something, essentially replicating the above but being more conservative on weight levels. I simply want to make it sound better, I like the rawness and characteristics of this car :)

Where did you get the ppf bits? I'm looking to do more sound deadening soon.
 
Where did you get the ppf bits? I'm looking to do more sound deadening soon.
I’m based in Poland. We have a lots of stuff like this available at local online shops. Comes in roller, with various sizes. Small piece should be enough for these holes.
 
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Guys, is this black glue thing (silicon or just glue?) hard to remove? I’m debating if I need some kind of special alcohol to clean it.
 
I guess it's a first Subie in this thread 🤭 so I can confirm, anything related to GR86 base audio, correlates to BRZ.

Today I went to garage to play around.
Starting from my observations and inputs.

All spoken on this thread is valid and easily explained. The process is absurdly simple and there is nothing to break. Couple dummy plugs, screws and you are good to go. Tweeters are doable within 15 minutes, I'd recommend doing them "in spare moment" to not add additional time for the doors.

If you are still scared, watch this guy, he goes over the same procedure step by step.

NOTE, Focal tweeters don't need that much of a hassle, just pick adapter and you are good to go.

For people upgrading only audio, total spent time would be 1hr for whole car, it's dead simple. Others, myself included, if you are using mats to deaden the car, it's a little bit tricker. I did it first time and for passenger doors alone, it took me almost 4 hours.

The black glue, holding the plastic... It stretched like a fudge, cheese, sticks like hell but there I a good part as well. You can simply "pull" the glue, and then when it's on your gloves, just use it to get rest of the glue from the frame - you will create "snowball", or in this case, "glue ball" (see my pic with the glove). Afterwards, it's easy as hell, you don't need any tar remover as glue sticks more to itself than to the metal doors.

Take the plastic tools to extract any pins left from door shell, to the metal inside frame. Also watch out for silicone rubber grommets that are attached to the pins - you can easily drop them and miss em when assembling.

I've managed to do only passenger side so can't really tell much about the audio but first inputs - it's noticeable that right doors sounds better :) I'll wrap up driver side and give it a fly.

Lastly, as presented by other guy from UK, 2:29 moment.


If you don't want to add necessary weight to the car, just swap the speakers, I'd suggest buying thick PPF foil and just cover all of the holes. It will weight next to nothing, serve its purpose by stopping the water but you will mitigate the resonating sounds from the foil itself - think about it, you already disassembled the doors, it's one step above and it doesn't require anything fancy, scissors alone will do the trick.

Cheers,
 

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