GR Yaris ECU Message Codes.

[Sekred]

Took my GR for a drive this morning and it was going fine giving it plenty of throttle when suddenly lost all power. At first I thought it was the dreaded " Reduced Engine Power" but this was something else.
Pulled to the side of the road and stopped.
Engine miss firing badly but only at idle.
Miss fire clears when you rev it but won't rev above 2500rpm.
No smoke.
TRC light on.
Following messages on the dash.
The images are of the car driving full throttle 2nd gear. No power, barely drags itself along.
Switch the ignition on and off multiply times.
Cleared codes with my CanCheck on the highway.
Runs fine and then fault comes back quickly
Engine Check light is on now all the time.
My cheap code reader shows "throttle position sensor", nothing else.
It will need to be towed. Dealer is 50kms away.
Any insight or advice?.
Thanks.

 

[Sekred]

Played with it a little more this afternoon after doing a little reading.
Cleared the throttle position sensor fault with my OBDll dongle and phone app.
Reset the brake system messages by holding down the brake and throttle pedals at the same time, ignition on, engine off.
Started the engine and it is all clear at the moment but have not driven yet and I want to avoid taking the car to the dealer especially if it is a tow job to get it there.
The throttle position sensor may be the problem.
The "Brake Override Malfunction" can happen if one of the ECUs thinks your trying to brake and throttle is still open.
Anyone left foot brake in this vehicle?.

 

[Ecsrobin]

I’d suspect this is more a mechanical issue than left foot braking as I’m sure numerous owners do that and this is the first time I’ve seen this error.

 

[FrakassoR]

I’d suspect this is more a mechanical issue than left foot braking as I’m sure numerous owners do that and this is the first time I’ve seen this error.

yes, i'm using and no problem for me

 

[GRsmol]

Played with it a little more this afternoon after doing a little reading.
Cleared the throttle position sensor fault with my OBDll dongle and phone app.
Reset the brake system messages by holding down the brake and throttle pedals at the same time, ignition on, engine off.
Started the engine and it is all clear at the moment but have not driven yet and I want to avoid taking the car to the dealer especially if it is a tow job to get it there.
The throttle position sensor may be the problem.
The "Brake Override Malfunction" can happen if one of the ECUs thinks your trying to brake and throttle is still open.
Anyone left foot brake in this vehicle?.

Can I ask, was there potentially something unusual about battery voltage at the time this occurred? Did you have music on loud, or have you installed an after market battery? I’m having a similar problem.

 

[Yaris146]

I’d suspect this is more a mechanical issue than left foot braking as I’m sure numerous owners do that and this is the first time I’ve seen this error.

I’ve had it once or twice, car cuts power at that point. Suspect during a sequence I haven’t fully released the brake switch although brakes aren’t really on. It’s possibly his brake switch

 

[Sekred]

I now know more about the Brake Override System than I ever wanted to. Its more of a throttle overide system really.
Its not the brake switch although that is one of the inputs the ECU uses and cuts the throttle.
This is a malfunction of the system anyway and when the system malfunctions its actually fucken dangerous .
Toyota still have my car.

 

[Sekred]

Posted this on the other forum, maybe useful/informative here,

So the vehicle is finally running normally as it should, no codes and no limp mode.
Warning there is some swearing in the following post.
The Toyota dealer had my vehicle for around 3 months. They could not diagnose the problem correctly so they did not fix the fault.
During that time they replaced one component, that was the throttle body. I think the reason they replaced the throttle body was because every time it went into limp mode and the brake malfunction error was displayed on the dash there was also a CEL with the code P2119 which is related to the throttle body.
I am not sure what else they did apart from using Toyota software to check a few things like wheel speed sensors, TPS, connections and wiring.
After 3 months I went got the vehicle.
The vehicle was still drivable as long as you did not use full throttle.
My 2nd vehicle needed a repair so I needed to use the GR as a daily driver.
Am I pissed off?, what do you think!!.
In any case I had basically given up on the Toyota dealers ability to fix the problem.
What I decided to do was throw parts at it.
I did the following.
1st parts order direct from Japan. About 3 weeks wait.
Replaced both pressure sensors, one was the MAP. Both the same part #.
No Change. Straight into limp mode the 1st time I took it out on the highway and went WOT in 4th gear.
Took me 15 minutes in get it out of limp mode cycling the igntion on the side of the road.
Thats another thing too. Toyota were resetting the problem by pulling a fuse or some other process.
They would not tell me how they were doing it when I collected the vehicle.
Time to get serious.
Replaced the following.
2nd parts order direct from Japan. About 3 weeks wait.
TPS, MAF sensor, boost solenoid.
Why did I order all these parts at once?. Time waiting, ****ing sick of it.
Problem fixed.
What was it?.
Boost control solenoid, meaning the wategate actuator,
The boost solenoid is Normally Closed and powered to open. This is a fail safe design meaning if a wire breaks or the coil fails inside the solenoid fails then no vacuum flows to the wastegate actuator and you have no boost.
This solenoid has failed in the open position meaning the system was over boosting. Its possible the solenoid was functioning to some degree.
Was there an excessive boost code?, No.
What has the Brake Override and Secondary Collision Brake System got to do with the problem I was having?,
Well, I have no idea really but,
I think it relates to bizarre Toyota/Denso software more than anything else.
So 5 months later I can finally drive my GR like its meant to be driven and not worry about it going into limp mode and drying on the side of the road with no throttle because of a faulty solenoid. I mean for **** sake.

 

[Humptydumptyhadabigone]

Thanks for the feedback. I left foot brake on the track and rarely on the road, I was reading another forum where some numpties who have never left foot braked an auto let alone a manual were having a heated discussion about how dangerous the practice is... anyway the whole engine cuts out blah blah came up and I hadn't experienced that in expert or all nannies gone mode. Tested it in shopping trolley mode and it didn't cut the engine either...

 

[Michael Knight]

Posted this on the other forum, maybe useful/informative here,

So the vehicle is finally running normally as it should, no codes and no limp mode.
Warning there is some swearing in the following post.
The Toyota dealer had my vehicle for around 3 months. They could not diagnose the problem correctly so they did not fix the fault.
During that time they replaced one component, that was the throttle body. I think the reason they replaced the throttle body was because every time it went into limp mode and the brake malfunction error was displayed on the dash there was also a CEL with the code P2119 which is related to the throttle body.
I am not sure what else they did apart from using Toyota software to check a few things like wheel speed sensors, TPS, connections and wiring.
After 3 months I went got the vehicle.
The vehicle was still drivable as long as you did not use full throttle.
My 2nd vehicle needed a repair so I needed to use the GR as a daily driver.
Am I pissed off?, what do you think!!.
In any case I had basically given up on the Toyota dealers ability to fix the problem.
What I decided to do was throw parts at it.
I did the following.
1st parts order direct from Japan. About 3 weeks wait.
Replaced both pressure sensors, one was the MAP. Both the same part #.
No Change. Straight into limp mode the 1st time I took it out on the highway and went WOT in 4th gear.
Took me 15 minutes in get it out of limp mode cycling the igntion on the side of the road.
Thats another thing too. Toyota were resetting the problem by pulling a fuse or some other process.
They would not tell me how they were doing it when I collected the vehicle.
Time to get serious.
Replaced the following.
2nd parts order direct from Japan. About 3 weeks wait.
TPS, MAF sensor, boost solenoid.
Why did I order all these parts at once?. Time waiting, ****ing sick of it.
Problem fixed.
What was it?.
Boost control solenoid, meaning the wategate actuator,
The boost solenoid is Normally Closed and powered to open. This is a fail safe design meaning if a wire breaks or the coil fails inside the solenoid fails then no vacuum flows to the wastegate actuator and you have no boost.
This solenoid has failed in the open position meaning the system was over boosting. Its possible the solenoid was functioning to some degree.
Was there an excessive boost code?, No.
What has the Brake Override and Secondary Collision Brake System got to do with the problem I was having?,
Well, I have no idea really but,
I think it relates to bizarre Toyota/Denso software more than anything else.
So 5 months later I can finally drive my GR like its meant to be driven and not worry about it going into limp mode and drying on the side of the road with no throttle because of a faulty solenoid. I mean for **** sake.

View attachment 15351

OT but where is that solenoid located in the engine bay? just curious.
Good if it resolved the issue!

 

[Sekred]

Thanks for the feedback. I left foot brake on the track and rarely on the road, I was reading another forum where some numpties who have never left foot braked an auto let alone a manual were having a heated discussion about how dangerous the practice is... anyway the whole engine cuts out blah blah came up and I hadn't experienced that in expert or all nannies gone mode. Tested it in shopping trolley mode and it didn't cut the engine either...

You can left foot brake without a problem, the systems not intrusive enough to cut the throttle.
This software was developed about 10-12 years ago in response to a few accidents with vehicle accelerating without the throttle being applied.
I remember reading about it online. At few people were killed, a family from memory. This happened in the USA. Toyota will involved and had their backside sued.
You will find most current vehicle have this type of software.

 

[Sekred]

OT but where is that solenoid located in the engine bay? just curious.
Good if it resolved the issue!

RHS, rear of engine bay.

 

[GRsmol]

Can I ask, was there potentially something unusual about battery voltage at the time this occurred? Did you have music on loud, or have you installed an after market battery? I’m having a similar problem.

I worked my problem out. It was the combination of the Turbosmart VTA BOV and the HKS SSQV BOV. Apparently they don’t play well together and throw up a P2119 error, which suggests a (completely non-existent) throttle body issue.

 

[Michael Knight]

Posted this on the other forum, maybe useful/informative here,

So the vehicle is finally running normally as it should, no codes and no limp mode.
Warning there is some swearing in the following post.
The Toyota dealer had my vehicle for around 3 months. They could not diagnose the problem correctly so they did not fix the fault.
During that time they replaced one component, that was the throttle body. I think the reason they replaced the throttle body was because every time it went into limp mode and the brake malfunction error was displayed on the dash there was also a CEL with the code P2119 which is related to the throttle body.
I am not sure what else they did apart from using Toyota software to check a few things like wheel speed sensors, TPS, connections and wiring.
After 3 months I went got the vehicle.
The vehicle was still drivable as long as you did not use full throttle.
My 2nd vehicle needed a repair so I needed to use the GR as a daily driver.
Am I pissed off?, what do you think!!.
In any case I had basically given up on the Toyota dealers ability to fix the problem.
What I decided to do was throw parts at it.
I did the following.
1st parts order direct from Japan. About 3 weeks wait.
Replaced both pressure sensors, one was the MAP. Both the same part #.
No Change. Straight into limp mode the 1st time I took it out on the highway and went WOT in 4th gear.
Took me 15 minutes in get it out of limp mode cycling the igntion on the side of the road.
Thats another thing too. Toyota were resetting the problem by pulling a fuse or some other process.
They would not tell me how they were doing it when I collected the vehicle.
Time to get serious.
Replaced the following.
2nd parts order direct from Japan. About 3 weeks wait.
TPS, MAF sensor, boost solenoid.
Why did I order all these parts at once?. Time waiting, ****ing sick of it.
Problem fixed.
What was it?.
Boost control solenoid, meaning the wategate actuator,
The boost solenoid is Normally Closed and powered to open. This is a fail safe design meaning if a wire breaks or the coil fails inside the solenoid fails then no vacuum flows to the wastegate actuator and you have no boost.
This solenoid has failed in the open position meaning the system was over boosting. Its possible the solenoid was functioning to some degree.
Was there an excessive boost code?, No.
What has the Brake Override and Secondary Collision Brake System got to do with the problem I was having?,
Well, I have no idea really but,
I think it relates to bizarre Toyota/Denso software more than anything else.
So 5 months later I can finally drive my GR like its meant to be driven and not worry about it going into limp mode and drying on the side of the road with no throttle because of a faulty solenoid. I mean for **** sake.

View attachment 15351

have the same issue now. no fault codes but actual boost is 0.5bar over requested.
wednesday hopefully getting a new solenoid that hope will fix the issue.
don't dare to pull very high as boost goes to 1.8-2.0 or over, normally actual boost around 1.4-1.5bar. No clue if it would throw a defect code if would run WOT to redline but don't want to try.

Seems to be bit random too, as on mid throttle it works normally and sometimes in WOT aswell. but not always.

 

[Sekred]

Limp Mode,

 

[Michael Knight]

Car fixed now so issue was stuck boost solenoid. No error codes from ecu.
If you want to run 2bar boost just apparently block the outer vacuum line to the WG actuactor. but do not recommend it for the engine longeivity.

 

[Michael Knight]

Helped a friend with power who's beemer didn't start. after few donuts on parking lots started driving back home, and all of a sudden got a 'visit your dealer' info in dash.
checked codes and got P00CF. after clearing the code all good. but rather random fault. wonder if that's common and what does it mean.

 

[ChopperAB60]

Helped a friend with power who's beemer didn't start. after few donuts on parking lots started driving back home, and all of a sudden got a 'visit your dealer' info in dash.
checked codes and got P00CF. after clearing the code all good. but rather random fault. wonder if that's common and what does it mean.

Funnily enough, I've literally just had this P00CF code pop up on mine this evening on way home from work, also reset it and it seems on now.

 

[Michael Knight]

Funnily enough, I've literally just had this P00CF code pop up on mine this evening on way home from work, also reset it and it seems on now.

Very interesting - thanks for sharing

 

[MarkoS]

I had few, but I believe DTUK harness related. Never had one with box and harness disconnected.
Post in thread 'My first CEL' https://www.gr-zoo.com/threads/my-first-cel.2961/post-49431

If none of you run DTUK, it could be boost sensor I guess. Maybe extra boost from DTUK just triggers it sooner due to more boost?