GR Yaris 2K Android Headunit with wireless carplay, hacked CANBUS, DSP & Factory Wiring

nikoel

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Jul 22, 2023
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Heya, I have posted this on an other Forum, but got PM'd saying I should post it here too, so here it is

With a little savvy navigating through the maze of questionable Chinese suppliers and some reverse engineering of various inputs, I've whipped up a system that I'm pretty certain is fit for our beloved beasts. Now, my car is ""#blessed"" with the JBL sound system upgrade 🤢 - those with the non-JBL screens should be able to enjoy this too, though it's yet to be verified.

The Good News: A sleek 2K screen with tiny bezels (around 11" diagonal screen with a display span of about 10.3") with 8 Core Qualcomm SnapDragon Chip. The customized CANBUS, keeps the steering wheel controls intact and also recieves additional signals such as doors and fuel efficiency. It's pretty much plug-and-play (save for a single, somewhat optional splice). With a built-in DSP, you can expect far superior sound even on those stock speakers that frankly, aren't the best. The head unit boasts an analog output for a subwoofer, two USB-outs, and fully functioning Google Voice assistant via the standard steering wheel buttons. Wireless and reliable CarPlay (Android users might still be wired though, not certain). It's powered by Android 12. It's compatible with Bluetooth-enabled TPMS - though I haven't tested this feature yet. You can connect a dash camera directly into the head unit, but this means bidding adieu to your second USB port ¯\(ツ)/¯ - I can also run an app that connects to my OBDII reader for a proper readout of the temperatures and boost figures instead of paying for (in my opinion) the overpriced vent screen

The Not-So-Good News: The optional splice is needed for the reversing camera. Stock toyota doesn't look to be compatible, there seem to be shenanigans going on with reverse gear, the camera circuit and the original headunit. I've got a 4K backing camera that's compatible, but it needs to be wired into the reversing light circuit for seamless activation. I have mixed feelings about this. The 4K camera far outperforms the toyota version (duh). But I’ll need to snake the wiring through your car and replace the old camera = PITA (I have started the wiring process and have gotten access to all the toyota factory wiring diagrams)

The Final Piece: The last jigsaw piece is yet to fall into place - the screen mount. The stock bezels overrun the edges of the screen. The entire thing is a non-starter I've managed to track down a supplier generous enough to craft a complete screen frame and surround for our ride. It's currently in transit, fingers crossed it slots perfectly into the stock insert.

I am here because watching some of you swapping out your lackluster screens [turds] for the slightly less lackluster [shiny turds] ones from the Yaris Cross is torture

I'll share some videos and photos of the setup, so you can see it for youselves. Just a heads-up, the frame isn't here yet, so the screen isn't fully fitted. If there's enough interest, I might be able to get a few made

The damage to the wallet for this setup should be less 1000 kangaroos (about 500ish Queen KingBux), though I need to nail down the final figure because I trialed and errored my way through this

Just wanted to see what everyone's thoughts about this is before I commit time to something that might not interest enough people



 
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Please share the parts and where to get them with us once it's finalized! :)

The most important is obviously the Screen/DSP. I opted for the most expensive one available, primarily for the Snapdragon 8 Core 66# SOC and, secondly, for the screen resolution. The stock resolution of our JBL screens is 384,000px (800x480); this one is 2,400,000 (2000x1200), giving us an uptick of 6.25x. SOC stands for "system on a chip." This is where manufacturers, like Toyota, cut corners and save costs. It's an easy way to reduce costs, and it's not something you truly notice until you've bought the car and find yourself tapping the music icon multiple times while the sluggish system struggles with transitions. Most cheaper units use the MTK 8827 SOC; hence, the experience feels more like a slideshow. Furthermore, due to the SOC's struggle with basic screen transitions, its music processing suffers as well.

In regards to audio upgrades, remember that the pricier equipment people install in their cars is all located post-headunit. The Toyota stock headunit's sound processing is notably subpar. Thus, audio installers use Audison DSPs which process sound exceptionally well—certainly better than this headunit—and adjust the EQs. However, they aren't miracle devices. If the sound quality is poor at the source, there's a distinct limit to its potential improvement. As I like to phrase it: If you put Gordon Ramsay in a McDonald's, the best you'll get is an exceptional Big Mac, not a 5-star meal. This explains why some report a notable sound improvement when they connect their devices directly to their Alpine active subs.

Here are the companion parts:

  • Reversing Camera: The stock one isn't great. I've yet to mount mine.
  • External Microphone: The headunit has one, but mounting one closer to the driver's position is preferable. I have one of these too.
  • Wiring: From the screen/headunit to the factory lines.
  • CANBUS Module: Specific to our cars; this decodes data and enables features like reverse gear sense, doors, and driver's controls.
  • Custom Frame Mount: To house everything neatly.
  • Dash Camera: The headunit vendor threw in a dash camera as a freebie. I already had two installed, but I appreciate the gesture.
  • Cable Management: As shown in the attached photos, it's crucial to avoid a tangled mess.
  • TPMS: I'm considering getting one soon.
  • OBDII Connector: With the Android system, I can obtain detailed readings of oil temperature, pressure, and other gauges. I'm amazed some people paid over $700 for a mere vent screen, but I digress.
The boost in music quality mirrors that of the screen. The stock Toyota headunit's sound processing is abysmal. Poor input results in poor output. No matter how much you've spent on the speakers, if they process signals from the stock unit, it's akin to upgrading an engine but using subpar tires. The JBL speakers are decent and will improve further once I've adjusted the audio system. Eventually, I'll replace them.

Current challenges:

  • Automatic Dimming: It's not working as expected. I suspect it's a settings issue, but since I can easily adjust brightness in two swipes, it's a low priority for now. Solved
  • Factory Camera: I've said it before, but it's significantly lacking in quality and needs a replacement.
  • Remote Sub Wire and RCA Wires: I've routed these directly from the DSP/Headunit. I plan to connect an Audison Active Sub in the rear in under an hour without any splicing—or at least, that's the plan.
  • DSP Setup: I need to familiarize myself with setting up the DSP using a laptop. As I'm new to this, I'll be consulting YouTube videos.
  • Weight: An added advantage is that the aftermarket unit is considerably lighter than the stock one. I haven't weighed them to get an exact figure yet.
Costs:

I'm considering placing an order for a few Aus members whom I can help, before making it available to a wider audience. The total cost is projected to be between 500-550 Pounds, plus shipping. The final amount depends on the quantities ordered and any discounts I might secure.
 

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EQ now tuned. What a curve on those speakers

Not saying that this approach is the best but I basically tuned with pink noise until the line was flat[ish] and then adjusted by taste. Ended up with a slight bass inflection. I think it will come down to flat once the woof-woof duff-duff 🐶 is in


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Thats very smart. It will be interesting to see how it holds up over time, I've had experience with chinese full android headunits before and they seem to slow down over time.
 
Thats very smart. It will be interesting to see how it holds up over time, I've had experience with chinese full android headunits before and they seem to slow down over time.
Thank you

This chip is a mid to high-end component found in well-regarded tablets and phones, such as the Sony Xperia 10 II and Xiaomi Redmi Note 8, just to mention a couple. However, it operates at a higher clock speed because of its increased surface area and the presence of an external fan. Moreover, it boasts 8 cores, 256GB of storage, and 8GB of RAM, so we're as future-proof as possible. There's nothing faster available on the open market in this category

It's deeply disappointing that a lot of the stock headunits still exhibit lag when you swipe to the next page. I haven't encountered such an issue since the days of the iPhone 3. It's a problem that was addressed more than a decade ago, much like I no longer gauge the performance of a new computer by how quickly it can launch Microsoft Word

Everything is built to a budget. This is the first place that the bean counters make cuts as there is a reason this setup costs 1000 kangaroos - and that is cheap

If or when the time comes to upgrade, rest assured that the screw holes are ISO-standard and will accommodate the next screen.

Apple CarPlay utilizes the processing prowess of both the phone and the headunit. This is why even the subpar stock unit we're saddled with can still support CarPlay functionality

Kenwood still uses dual cores and quad cores in their systems and they are [somehow] considered a good company

Lastly, to expand upon your point: if our stock headunits are already showing signs of struggle when they're brand new, how will they perform in the years to come?
 
I think that's some of issue, being drawn in to big numbers isn't the whole story, you can have the best hardware in the world but if the operating system is clunky and full of bugs it becomes irrelevant. I had a quad core Joying unit that was great for a year before it started to play up. Processing power is half of it, are the chipsets just as good for the wireless functionality, the components for the DSP etc.

Having a full android operating system is ok if the native apps support the format its being displayed in and the developers adding their programs onto the units have done a decent job of it. Programmers/developers can be lazy nowadays when there is so much computing power on offer. I'm a big fan of Kenwood, yeah sure they may use antiquated hardware but it's robust, it's consistent and reliable. You don't need 8 core processors and 8GB RAM to run a car stereo at the end of the day. I had a Kenwood unit on my GT86 for 3 years before I sold it, it never crashed once or showed any signs of lag, yeah sure it's not feature rich but that in my mind is a good thing and did everything you needed.

Anyway, I was 100% not knocking you for what you've done just interested to see how it holds up, its a great bit of work.
 
I think that's some of issue, being drawn in to big numbers isn't the whole story, you can have the best hardware in the world but if the operating system is clunky and full of bugs it becomes irrelevant. I had a quad core Joying unit that was great for a year before it started to play up. Processing power is half of it, are the chipsets just as good for the wireless functionality, the components for the DSP etc.

Having a full android operating system is ok if the native apps support the format its being displayed in and the developers adding they programs onto the units have done a decent job of it. Programmers/developers can be lazy nowadays when there is so much computing power on offer. I'm a big fan of Kenwood, yeah sure they may use antiquated hardware but it's robust, it's consistent and reliable. You don't need 8 core processors and 8GB RAM to run a car stereo at the end of the day. I had a Kenwood unit on my GT86 for 3 years before I sold it, it never crashed once or showed any signs of lag, yeah sure it's not feature rich but that in my mind is a good thing and did everything you needed.

Anyway, I was 100% not knocking you for what you've done just interested to see how it holds up, its a great bit of work.
No, no. I appreciate your comments and I don’t take it personally, I did not have a hand in making the device. My involvement was connecting all the dots and then taking the risk . (With lots of failures along the way that I didn’t bother cataloging until I had a somewhat functioning prototype 😂)

I believe that if this headunit is not [reasonably] future proof then none are. Of course resource utilisation and optimisation are important

My main point was that these problems have been largely solved - as long as modern units are bought. The most popular android headunits being sold still have the 8227 from 2014. So the stigma remains. Gah!!!!

This chip runs modern 3D games like PubG, it’s a different universe. Thus my Microsoft word comment

With invention of CarPlay I do not foresee me putting any other apps other than a gauge app which will connect to the OBDII

I will report back in a year. Im never selling this car anyway
 
Woof Woof. Doof Doof 🐶

The wiring harness has a dedicated RCA out for subwoofer and remote activation cable for the amp
Crossover works perfectly. I have pushed a lot of the lower frequencies out of the door speakers and they no longer buzz the trim
Delay is crap and is not usable - like at all. Forget about it. Suits me just fine as I don't like it
TruBass and Sound Processing is quite good
DTS actually works, and is not a Gimmick; whaaaaa?!
EQ works perfectly, maybe a little too precise which means you have to alter the entire thing step by step. Minor inconvenience as once it's set you can pretty much forget about it
Battery in the boot made the wiring so easy and Toyota even had an entire channel spare for an extra connection on the positive. How nice.

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Quick Update

So I’ve put sound deadening over the driver side door and wired up the reverse camera. However I got a few issues to solve

1) The way our CANBUS recognises reverse is different to the way our fellow Chinese designer of the box thought it worked. I believe it’s something to do with auto vs manual in addition to differences in GR vs the rest

2) I believe I have solution. I went through our factory wiring diagrams and located the wire and terminal that triggers 12V when reverse is activated and it’s right behind the headunit too. I will get an other connector and wire that into Reverse Sense of the headunit

3) Still doesn’t solve my issue that I somehow got a faulty camera that produces pure static. So I’m now waiting on a warranty replacement

The headunit has been performing really well so far. I’ve had two issues. One of which is an iOS 16 bug which causes google maps to occasionally crash Wireless CarPlay. Happens to my phone, but not an other 🫤

Confirmed by using all other navigation apps with no issues

An other is that I got a blank screen on startup once, I pressed reset and the headunit rebooted fine. Will this be an ongoing issue? I do not know

I have two modes of operation, one is sleep. Like sleep on an iPad it wakes instantly and pairs within seconds. The second is boot from power off. Takes about as long as an average iPad. There is a third, reboot after X cycles. Where it’s on standby but reboots after x amount of starts. I can see the benefits of all of them. Will keep testing stability over the coming weeks, with all three modes of op

Also when I installed sound deadening I thought I broke my door latching mechanism. It refused to randomly lock and unlock. I was about to open her up after a couple of days, but then she started to work again… ಠ_ಠ sensors? Relearning latching? Im not going to argue with a good thing
 
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Wireless charging is now installed and working at 15-20W. Phone is held in place by magnets. All wires tucked away and routed. Finally no wires visible anywhere

I now have two data USB connections. One of which will be occupied by TPS plus the stock USB front port. A few USB power plugs inside the glovebox

Mic is installed. There is an invisible position (where mic is not visible when driving) and visible position on the steering rack cover. Two voicemail sample audios attached and photos of both

Audio Files: nkz3nwM8gn

I ended up with the visible position as I valued slightly better clarity. The mic somehow is the same colour black as the trim so looks almost stock

Tidied up the wiring now that everything is almost together. Backing camera is the only thing that is left. I will poke the wire into the terminal before I bother with the soldering of the extra connector to see that my idea actually works

Home stretch

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Hey

Need Help.

What is the RMS (per chanel or total) output of the JBL Amp under the seat? My search returned nada.

I'm thinking of starting the search for the speakers to replace the stocks. The stocks are plenty loud enough, but I'd hate to spend money on something that is quality but is too power hungry to be powered by the stock amp

@Reyanth - I saw you sold your dash speakers. Did you have to lift out the dash to get to them? Do you know what size they are?

 
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Rear camera - success!

1) Need to mount it properly
2) Must be currently activated via two taps on the screen
3) Should become my backup reverse dashcam

4) Need to now test my working theory on the reverse activity terminal and the harness. (Aka auto activate when reverse is selected)

I will use straight up wire connection with tape before ordering an other connector to splice in properly


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On board diagnostics, parameters and ECU Reset/Code Reading is now functioning

Only had a quick 30min play with it, but all seems to work fine. And shows the well documented throttle closing at WOT in lower gears. Still need to adjust to look and feel of the gauges to make them look a little better
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Thanks for the compliments boys

I have been working a lot over the last month and my spare time for the car went into servicing and replacing every fluid on the car. Not much progress on the other front. The system has been great day to day

Today I finally measured up the midrange speakers and figured out the tweeters too. Midrange is now install ready

I will need to do some light dremel work as the JBL tweeters are tiny af

I also have the adapter cables in my basket. But the more I think about it the more I wonder, what's the point? I will probably solder the main speaker cables directly to the new connectors. But I haven't quite decided yet
 

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